- Thread starter
- #61
Yeah, I will be pulling the tub back in the shop soon, but they looked ok doing the body work. The frame side of things is good.
Builds 81 bj42 build..... trusty rusty (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Ambrew
- Start date
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I just bought a blast cabinet also , but I think you can only use glass beads in it. How good does it take of the rust compared to sand ? Does glass beads work on rusty leaf springs etc... or it only good for etching things like aluminum and such. I'll try to post a pic of the one I bought .Mod u blast makes it , I never took it out of the box yet.
- Thread starter
- #63
I got the Princess auto smaller cabinet. The glass bead is gentle compared to crushed glass, which is what I was using before. The thing about sand is silicosis, or the fine dust that arises from blasting. It's nasty stuff for your lungs, even if a little leaks out of your cabinet. The nice thing about the cabinet is that it recylcles the grit, so investing a little goes a long way. Aluminium oxide works great too, tried that at work.
That beign said, glass bead will work well. It's made not to dent or take away from the metal, and leaves no contamination behind (less prep for paint). It may take longer on heavily rusted steel thought, but flows well in the blaster.
If you can get it, find a heavy grit non-sand material for all you heavy rusted steel bits, then switch to glass bead for your finer, thinner metal. If you can only use glass bead, get the biggest grit you can find. You'll love it! especially once you scratch up your bx25 grill and want it to look new.....
That beign said, glass bead will work well. It's made not to dent or take away from the metal, and leaves no contamination behind (less prep for paint). It may take longer on heavily rusted steel thought, but flows well in the blaster.
If you can get it, find a heavy grit non-sand material for all you heavy rusted steel bits, then switch to glass bead for your finer, thinner metal. If you can only use glass bead, get the biggest grit you can find. You'll love it! especially once you scratch up your bx25 grill and want it to look new.....
- Thread starter
- #64
Looks like a sexy cabinet you got. I wish I had invested in a better one like yours!
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
I just bought a blast cabinet also , but I think you can only use glass beads in it. How good does it take of the rust compared to sand ? Does glass beads work on rusty leaf springs etc... or it only good for etching things like aluminum and such. I'll try to post a pic of the one I bought .Mod u blast makes it , I never took it out of the box yet.
We've got two of those at the shop. One three foot and one four foot unit. Been using the three footer for about 4 years with #7 glass bead. I think they are made in Edmonton.
I agree with Ambrew about trying another media for the heavier rust descaling etc. We only blast new metal with the glass.
I paid about $ 3,300.00 CDN for it I think . I hope I didn't screw up and can use a media in it that takes off heavy rust scale . That is what I want it for , taking heavy rust off not beading new metal . Not to much non rusty metal around these salt infested parts.
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Very impressive work you have been doing !
I had galvanized my 45 frame then painted over it with black paint, so it seems to be fine if you go galvanized.
I had galvanized my 45 frame then painted over it with black paint, so it seems to be fine if you go galvanized.
- Thread starter
- #68
No, I didn't end up galvanizing it.... I priced the paint (por 15) and supplies to blast and do the frame myself, which was 700$. I got a refinisher to do it for 1100, with electro static paint. Same process as powdercoat, dirfferent product. I''m very satisfied, especially since the did a 2nd coat because of pinholes....
- Thread starter
- #69
Finally some time in the garage! The weather has been nice, and I'm slowly getting ready for paint.
I brought the tub back in to do some final tweaking, such as the running board bolt hole, finish the vertical gutter in front of the door and fitting the trans tunnel cover.
Ended up getting quite q bit of warpage on the cover, but after some hammer and dolly work, I got it to the ppoint where it will bolt down.
I finally got to see the underside of the tub, and there were still soft spots. notably the body mounts and floor pan bit that I did not change. It took a full day just to do those few fixes. I actually "sculpted" some of the compound curves out of weld.....
Found a local source for Upol raptor, so that's on the way. Also settled on the Nason paint system for the epoxy/filler/urethane.
I went to a sand blaster today on the expectation of the phone quote for 3-400$. When I got there, the tune changed to 8 hours, close to 1000$.... I just dont think they know how long it's gonna take. I'm going back tomorow to collect my tub, and I'm going to buy a blaster myself. It's messy, I know, but I figure it will be 350$ for all the media and the blaster. I will be using non silica sand.
Getting the tub back on...
patching
finshed (warped) product
finding the soft spots
new full lenght gutter. I tried cutting 3/4 angle, making my own out of 18guage and finally got a piece professionally bent.... should have just bit the bullet instead of wasting a few hours..
Putting the tub in the trailer!!!
I brought the tub back in to do some final tweaking, such as the running board bolt hole, finish the vertical gutter in front of the door and fitting the trans tunnel cover.
Ended up getting quite q bit of warpage on the cover, but after some hammer and dolly work, I got it to the ppoint where it will bolt down.
I finally got to see the underside of the tub, and there were still soft spots. notably the body mounts and floor pan bit that I did not change. It took a full day just to do those few fixes. I actually "sculpted" some of the compound curves out of weld.....
Found a local source for Upol raptor, so that's on the way. Also settled on the Nason paint system for the epoxy/filler/urethane.
I went to a sand blaster today on the expectation of the phone quote for 3-400$. When I got there, the tune changed to 8 hours, close to 1000$.... I just dont think they know how long it's gonna take. I'm going back tomorow to collect my tub, and I'm going to buy a blaster myself. It's messy, I know, but I figure it will be 350$ for all the media and the blaster. I will be using non silica sand.
Getting the tub back on...
patching
finshed (warped) product
finding the soft spots
new full lenght gutter. I tried cutting 3/4 angle, making my own out of 18guage and finally got a piece professionally bent.... should have just bit the bullet instead of wasting a few hours..
Putting the tub in the trailer!!!
- Thread starter
- #70
What you dont see is that I got all my heater and rad bits pressure tested and fixed, and the driveshafts are ready! going to pick them up tomorow.
- Thread starter
- #71
Just found out that the paint alone will be over 1100$ Ouch. This after going from a 2-300$ phone quote for sandblasting, which became 800-1000$ when he saw the tub. Now i need 350$ of sandblasting supplies too. Gonna have to put it on hold for a while....
Hey Ambrew,
Is amazing how they casually give you a low ball price and then that changed 3 to 4 fold when they see the truck, eh. You can do the sandblasting and painting yourself man. The compressor you have will handle it. I am slowly blasting my truck bit by bit with only a 2hp compressor and a $179 pot blaster from TSC stores. I found media selection to be key, I am using 80 grit aluminum oxide, is much denser than sand which is easier on the lower volume compressors and smaller blasters. It can be recycled 100 time as well so well worth to build a tarp recovery system. I bought mine from a wholesale distributor in hamilton for $35 per 50lb bag. I expect 4 bags will get through the entire truck with recycling.
Anyway, cheers, wish you all the best.
Is amazing how they casually give you a low ball price and then that changed 3 to 4 fold when they see the truck, eh. You can do the sandblasting and painting yourself man. The compressor you have will handle it. I am slowly blasting my truck bit by bit with only a 2hp compressor and a $179 pot blaster from TSC stores. I found media selection to be key, I am using 80 grit aluminum oxide, is much denser than sand which is easier on the lower volume compressors and smaller blasters. It can be recycled 100 time as well so well worth to build a tarp recovery system. I bought mine from a wholesale distributor in hamilton for $35 per 50lb bag. I expect 4 bags will get through the entire truck with recycling.
Anyway, cheers, wish you all the best.
- Thread starter
- #73
Yeah, JD, I got the same blaster as you from tsc. It's nice, but as you say, the media is everything. I will try alum. oxide for the rest, but found out that olevine (?) is too light. just blew out real quick, using A LOT of air. I found a place near here that does auto restoration. His price is 60% of his closest competitor, and will prime it immediatly for 60$ + paint. Can't beat that! I will try and do the rest myself, with your suggestions.
Yeah, the guy that quoted me different was an actual sandblasting shop.... You'd think they know this sort of thing inside out... Plus, when I saw the shop, It wasn't worth the money... disorganised and cramped. Not very professional. I'll have more to show tomorow!
Yeah, the guy that quoted me different was an actual sandblasting shop.... You'd think they know this sort of thing inside out... Plus, when I saw the shop, It wasn't worth the money... disorganised and cramped. Not very professional. I'll have more to show tomorow!
- Thread starter
- #74
It's been a while!
But, progres is beign made, althought it's been quite a roller coaster... I went and got a sandblaster, media, PPE the whole 9 yards. Then, after about an hour of blasting and a big mess, I had done about 2-3 sq feet of tub. Super discouraged. So, I packed it up and resigned myself to try and find a blaster that wouldn't charge 100$ an hour.
After a few hours of research, I was suggested Majestic Auto restorations south of town. Turns out, they were reasonably price and did a good job of blasting the tub! I chipped in a bit more and got them to epoxy prime it too. It cost a grand, but took all the pressure off trying to paint the tub before any rust showed up again.
After about a week, I started working on the few holes of blow thru from the blasting. I think there were 5 spots in all, so not too bad! Once those were done, I could start scuffing the primer. Unfortunately some of the sand from blasting made it into the primer, so it took a while to get the whole thing ready for bodywork.
The plan has always been to not do filler inside or underneath the tub, but there were 3 little spots that will make a difference to me. So today, I got a can of Evercoat rage extreme and started on some filler. Sands nice! Finally, after a final wipe down, I now have a tub ready for paint inside and underneath. I plan to shoot another layer of EP then wet on wet 3 coats of singe stage urethane.
I had no clue that auto paint was so expensive! I thought about going with a Nason system but then the owner of majestic suggested BASF. He clearly has a ton of experience with the stuff and turns out it's better priced. Going to pick up paint tomorow am.
So tonight I put down 2 tubes of Proform urethane seam sealer, and looks like i'll need another 2... Not pretty, but I'm covering all my welds from underneath as extra protection. If it wasn't for bolt holes it would float!!!
Goopy!
After much delay I finally built a decent dolly to roll the tub around.
This is how the tub was paraded to the different sandblasters.
Not shown but equally nice are my new drive shafts from Ottawa driveshaft. Nice guys, great job and they even were kind to my wallet! I installed the front one but will wait until the gas tank is in for the rear. Also, got the rad and heater cores cleaned, tested and a few leaks fixed. Looks new!
But, progres is beign made, althought it's been quite a roller coaster... I went and got a sandblaster, media, PPE the whole 9 yards. Then, after about an hour of blasting and a big mess, I had done about 2-3 sq feet of tub. Super discouraged. So, I packed it up and resigned myself to try and find a blaster that wouldn't charge 100$ an hour.
After a few hours of research, I was suggested Majestic Auto restorations south of town. Turns out, they were reasonably price and did a good job of blasting the tub! I chipped in a bit more and got them to epoxy prime it too. It cost a grand, but took all the pressure off trying to paint the tub before any rust showed up again.
After about a week, I started working on the few holes of blow thru from the blasting. I think there were 5 spots in all, so not too bad! Once those were done, I could start scuffing the primer. Unfortunately some of the sand from blasting made it into the primer, so it took a while to get the whole thing ready for bodywork.
The plan has always been to not do filler inside or underneath the tub, but there were 3 little spots that will make a difference to me. So today, I got a can of Evercoat rage extreme and started on some filler. Sands nice! Finally, after a final wipe down, I now have a tub ready for paint inside and underneath. I plan to shoot another layer of EP then wet on wet 3 coats of singe stage urethane.
I had no clue that auto paint was so expensive! I thought about going with a Nason system but then the owner of majestic suggested BASF. He clearly has a ton of experience with the stuff and turns out it's better priced. Going to pick up paint tomorow am.
So tonight I put down 2 tubes of Proform urethane seam sealer, and looks like i'll need another 2... Not pretty, but I'm covering all my welds from underneath as extra protection. If it wasn't for bolt holes it would float!!!
Goopy!
After much delay I finally built a decent dolly to roll the tub around.
This is how the tub was paraded to the different sandblasters.
Not shown but equally nice are my new drive shafts from Ottawa driveshaft. Nice guys, great job and they even were kind to my wallet! I installed the front one but will wait until the gas tank is in for the rear. Also, got the rad and heater cores cleaned, tested and a few leaks fixed. Looks new!
kcustom73
Stretched it...
Just found your thread after you posted in mine. We should get together and compare notes. What part of Ottawa are you in?
In one of your posts you mentioned you found a local supplier for Upol raptor liner. Do you mind if I ask where?
In one of your posts you mentioned you found a local supplier for Upol raptor liner. Do you mind if I ask where?
Thanks for saving another Canadian Jem!
- Thread starter
- #77
Thanks Deny! We all have to do our part....
Kevin: Pm'd you,
I called AB warehouse near Montreal, and they connected me with a local vendor for the upol raptor.
Kevin: Pm'd you,
I called AB warehouse near Montreal, and they connected me with a local vendor for the upol raptor.
- Thread starter
- #78
Update: Lots of work came my way, but i did squeeze in some time last week. I was all gun ho to paint, but noticed some rust creeping back on the balsted spots, despite it staying in the garage. So another 8 hours of blast, clean, weld and clean some more, I got the inside and bottom of the tub painted. No pics yet.... My buddy Brian is betting on rustic green. We'll see!
subscribed keep it goin
Subscribed, great work man!
