Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested (18 Viewers)

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Apparently he's been having yard sales too!

Meh....he's LEO and can fix my tickets....or have me thrown in jail, his latter threat the deciding factor on the deal.

Before any get bent out of shape over preferential parts pulling, since much is obligated to others that I have not had a chance to remove, akrilo pulled his own.

That said, appeared the driver seat sustained some damage in the roll, since no issues with prior to, but didn't function one swapped to akrilo's LX.
 
Thought this would be a very simple endeavor, but turns out being more difficult than I thought.

Want to level an OE 80, eliminating rake, with no, to as little rear lift as possible.

Gonna run 315s, since they'll suit the mall parking lot perfectly, don't like the stinkbug look, and wouldn't mind the extra rigidity a new OE-ish coil could afford, since the existing are a little tired.

No additional weight. If anything, less, since no sunroof or heavy leather to contend with.

(Say no additional, but will have ~130lbs (??) of deadener in it)

Is this "no lift levelling" but a dream, or are there any products that can achieve.

I'm sure I'll complicate the crap out of this with custom coils and cut and turn, but hoping for a more sensible solution.
 
Re: the alarm, yes, 80s have it installed at port side...my '96 has the remote entry/alarm, all connected under the driver's seat. Edit to add, there is a sensor under the hood to alarm if the hood is opened, and a pezio sounder in the engine bay also.

and do keep us informed of an approximate cost for just the manual transmission dumped into an otherwise stock drivetrain if it's possible :)

I don't see why you could not achieve ~stock height and level with the right combo of coils/smaller spacer up front, I have the OME stock height kit and its within an inch of level. Not many fancy progressive coils off the shelf for stock height vs. 3-4 inch lift though.
 
I have a hard time tracking your hoard, as with Dan Kunz's hoard, and am petitioning Woody to require updated hoard photographs from both...in addition to other movers and shakers here who have become difficult to track.

80s, 55s, 7Xs...makes my head hurt a little bit.
 
@jeffro109

So, you have the OME stock height replacements and your front end is still 1" low?

What kinda added weight?

@Garth

One has to quantify what constitutes a vehicle before the discussion can even begin on inventory levels.

Is it a title?

Rolling chassis?

Just a titled body?

Full body?

Partial body?

Have to run?

Have to have an engine?

Those are the typical questions I ask of Mrs. D when she request to be enlightened of the stable's current state.....which ires her to the point she'd rather not discuss it further. :)

Culling the herd by one (FJC) and picked up an 80 to replace it's duties/fund prepping the new 80 acquisition and the other hungry projects with the proceeds from the soon coming sale.

As for pics of the newest acquisition, it HAS to be de-ghettofied, first, as it pains me to even look at her in her current state.
 
tape measure dork warning...
@Delancy , here is my ride height stats, measured from center of hub to bottom of fender sheet metal (I don't have flares), sitting in my garage which is close to level but not perfect. I have Slee step sliders on for all these measurements also, more dead weight.

With ~1/4 tank of gas (full tank lowers these #s by about 1/8" each):
Front (loaded with ARB, 9k winch with steel wire, larger 31M battery):
Driver - 20 3/8"
Passenger - 20 7/8"

I don't have data for front in stock form with the OMEs, the 80 has always had some junk up front :)


Rear (pretty much empty, 3rd row seats out makes little difference at all):
Driver - 21 1/2"
Passenger - 21 7/8"

Rear (3rd row seats out, plywood drawer set, fridge, camping stuff/tools in drawers...est 300 pounds cargo added over stock):
Driver - 20 3/4"
Passenger - 21"


Before the additions to the rear, there is nearly an inch of rake, though I'd suspect a half inch or so could be gained up front without all the addons to take part of that away. If I added a rear bumper, I'd be about dead level, could even it out side to side with small coil spacers. I need suspension bushings, the extra weight all over makes it more noticeable. The rear OMEs need some added weight to ride nicer to me, with an empty back it is more of a harsh bump.
 
FWIW, center of hub measurement from front to rear does not show rake. Look at the height of the flares and you will see the rear is lower than the front. Since Delancy is a contractor you should put a level on the bottom of the frame rail and measure that :)
 
FWIW, center of hub measurement from front to rear does not show rake. Look at the height of the flares and you will see the rear is lower than the front. Since Delancy is a contractor you should put a level on the bottom of the frame rail and measure that :)

Now I'll need one of those fancy levels with the magnet strip too instead of my old half busted 4 ft level...

I had not noticed a difference in the fenders really, but I trust your knowledge on it. Just looking down the body I could see the front was lower with the extra weight/extra spring "lift" in the rear before the rear storage build and now it looks more appropriate, at least to me.
 
and we still needs pics of the ghetto fabulous 80

Y'all should know that you kinda gotta smooth the edges of the trashy girls before you bring 'em around your buddies!!

After they've been accepted, THEN it's cool to show where she came from. Before, and she's just gotta work that much harder to fit in.

Give you an idea as to why I'm glad the clear glass is limo tinted?

image.jpg


Cue bass beat:

"In the ghetto.
I'm talkin' 'bout the ghetto."

"In the ghetto.
Tha funky, funky ghetto."
 
ugh, ehhhh yeah, maybe some parts from your former rig can live on...like the rims.

Keep her on the other side of town till you're ready to bring her around :)
 
Keep her on the other side of town till you're ready to bring her around :)

Just need 15 mo' switches, gin, an sum juice....

image.jpg


Has anyone used a stud gun to plug the holes in body, yet?

Was chatting with the buddy who's had the '72 Pig as a shop floor ornament for year and a half now, about how I'd plugged the LX, and he pulled out a Stinger Stud Gun "kit" that's used to pull panels.

The heads on the blanks that he had are too small, so looking for larger, but it looks to be the damn trick to welding them up.

Said 2 seconds and it's done, plus it centralizes the juice to the center of the head, so minimizes the chance of warpage.

I can't beliebemi didn't find when hunting a better solution than nails, on the LX...
 
Your wife must really love you! Happy thanksgiving bro!
 

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