Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter Delancy
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- Thread starter
- #143
busmup808 said:
17x9 Method Racing BL with -12mm offset. Weigh 33lbs each and wrapped with a 285/70 Terra Grappler, soon to be mounted on a Diesel Toys converted FJC.
We mounted several yesterday and one item noted was how the hardware is recessed into the ring, leaving the bolt heads well below. Considering his tire choice, a good feature, since the rings will be more exposed.
I'be been running Trail Ready's on the FJC with 35x12.5s and the bolt heads aren't recessed, but the tire offers a decent buffer due to the bulbousness.
One item still be determined is wheel. I've about convinced myself that a 17" bead lock is the direction I'm heading, mostly due to the expense of rehabilitating the current wheels and the lack of available tire choices.
- Thread starter
- #144
Is there any known issues moving the rear crossmember forward? Literally, cutting the welds, tabbing the upper mount to be able to re-weld (since access to the upper frame rail is hindered due to body) and pushing forward ~4"?
Chris:
What do you mean by overwhelmed? You need to be more specific.
You have a vehicle with certain issues. Create a speadsheet of all of the issues you need to work out, parts needed, and processes that will fufill fixing issues (i.e., you do the work, the work is farmed out etc.).
I agree these projects can spiral out of control.
Take one component system at a time. For example, if you are going to regear, then do both the front and rear axle jobs at the same time which is the way it should be done.
All of the systems are the same for the 80 series in that they are all reasonably accessable and connected to each other.
If you want to talk, feel free to give me a call. I am creating a master document for a complete ground up rebuild of an 80 series cruiser since I am getting ready to do one myself. A lot of the things are things we have talked about.
Have a cold one, don't fret and let everything come together logically. These are, afterall, well built and well designed Japanese vehicles.
Regards.
-onur
HA, not a chance.
Unfortunately or fortunately (depending on where you're standing) I am of the same mind set or disease class.
Well, I've got one now.... hit me with that list. I'm both excited and a tad worried about what I'm getting into. hahahahaha
It is brother, hope all is okay in OK. Expect more than a few text messages, emails and PM's from me in the near future.
Excellent advice beno! Exactly what I needed to read right now.
- Thread starter
- #148
beno said:
Partially where I am hung up.
It's the logical progression that's the issue, and mostly due to inexperience and OCDism. The more I tear into, the more I want to strip it to the frame and "do it right", yet lack the experience and local resources to complete.
In an effort to progress and maintain sanity, I set out to move the rear crossmember forward and weld the body holes, in preparation for body work that I can't determine either. Want to paint, but the liner is looking better every day.
After spending some time looking at the fenders, I found lines I can see to trim to, but can't figure out what the real advantage is, considering I don't know what the suspension limiter will be, because I don't know what suspension I'm using, yet, and still unsure of what wheel/ tire combo will coincide.
See the predicament?
You'd think it'd be easier considering the predecessor's whose success and failures are documented on the threads here, but I'm suffering from an info overload hangover right now.
Going to list the current ideas soon, hopefully in an effort to spark legitimate debate from those like minded in build strategy, to save unnecessary steps.
Thanks for the pep talk, Onur. I've about five email drafts ready to come your way, but we're delayed by consternation over WTF to do with the FJC axle assembly that's balking right now.
Chris
- Thread starter
- #149
Fraglerock said:
Pics, or it didn't happen!
Fraglerock said:
Okay in OK, Rob, because I'm sporting my Fuzzy Duds even though it's 94. Hahahaha.
I digress. Had the pleasure of meeting Cowboy in Tulsa last week, and he hooked my up with some Duds, and the promise my "life was about to change" because of. Even sang me a song.
I HAVE to get to Cali. Must be some good chit in the water, there. Hahaha.
Hate to here about the Fragleroll, but glad the addiction has prompted the move, though a lot different than the FJC.
- Thread starter
- #150
Requesting input and a baited question.
To cut, or not cut.
The rear looks to be a PITA, but I think it's still doable, just not sure if necessary.
The front doesn't appear to be much more than very tedious, and hopefully concealable when re-lining the inner fender well black.
Any takers?
To cut, or not cut.
The rear looks to be a PITA, but I think it's still doable, just not sure if necessary.
The front doesn't appear to be much more than very tedious, and hopefully concealable when re-lining the inner fender well black.
Any takers?
HA, you've got to come out with us to Pismo. Nothing like seeing a beach party with tons of drinks and fuzzy duds to match. The Fragleroll has definitely left a void in my heart where the FJC once was, hoping the 80 will quickly fill said void. Either way, I'm healthy, I'm alive, I can't complain.
- Thread starter
- #152
And is it worth saving the rear crossmember and relocating forward to the body mount, or fabbing new?
Considering I have a killer bumper sitting in my garage, I'm hesitant, BUT I've no intention of a swing out and concerned about clearance.
If I relocated the crossmember, could weld recovery points in the outer frame rails, then fab a "roll pan" or simple, lightweight bumper.
The wings would almost have to be independent, and haven't completely thought through yet.
Considering I have a killer bumper sitting in my garage, I'm hesitant, BUT I've no intention of a swing out and concerned about clearance.
If I relocated the crossmember, could weld recovery points in the outer frame rails, then fab a "roll pan" or simple, lightweight bumper.
The wings would almost have to be independent, and haven't completely thought through yet.
- Thread starter
- #153
Fraglerock said:
I'm revisiting a westward trip idea. Ponce De Leancy thinks the proverbial "Fountain of Youth" must be there.
Glad you made it out alive, and no better platform to be forced to move to.
Jump in. The waters fine.
Chris: PM me your phone number and I can call you today a d we can talk. You are overthinking most of this. The 80 series is not an FJC.
Trust me, im not here to make you spend more money, many others will confirm that. I am here to assist in helping you make informed decisions.
Regards.
Our!!!
Trust me, im not here to make you spend more money, many others will confirm that. I am here to assist in helping you make informed decisions.
Regards.
Our!!!
SoCal FZJ80
Happy to be Alive!
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- Jul 8, 2006
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- Website
- www.extremelandcruiser.com
1997 LX450 Build
To save yourself a lot of the welding, use the LC80 series door shells. Then you only have to fill a few holes on the quarters and front fenders. You are going to have to paint them after welding anyhow. I myself would trade you the door shells for yours and the cladding, and would be interested in the rest of the take off parts as well. I also have a tutorial on how to change your front end from Lexus to the 91-94 LC80 if you want to go all the way on the outside. That part is easy as it is only bolt on parts. I will post a how to thread soon as I just completed one. As of cutting the fenders, it isn't necessary for 99% of 80 series owners out there, but I have done my share of them- If you see the wide fender icelandic kits require the cutting like you outlined.
To save yourself a lot of the welding, use the LC80 series door shells. Then you only have to fill a few holes on the quarters and front fenders. You are going to have to paint them after welding anyhow. I myself would trade you the door shells for yours and the cladding, and would be interested in the rest of the take off parts as well. I also have a tutorial on how to change your front end from Lexus to the 91-94 LC80 if you want to go all the way on the outside. That part is easy as it is only bolt on parts. I will post a how to thread soon as I just completed one. As of cutting the fenders, it isn't necessary for 99% of 80 series owners out there, but I have done my share of them- If you see the wide fender icelandic kits require the cutting like you outlined.
Last edited:
SoCal FZJ80
Happy to be Alive!
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2006
- Threads
- 129
- Messages
- 849
- Location
- Southern California High Desert
- Website
- www.extremelandcruiser.com
Taking your new Landcruiser to Pismo!
https://forum.ih8mud.com/trails-events-expeditions/593434-pismo-oceano-dunes-meetup-nov-2012-a.html
We'll be there Nov 8th to the 11th... Thread is here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/trails-events-expeditions/593434-pismo-oceano-dunes-meetup-nov-2012-a.html
SoCal, how far are you from LA and or Sonoma again?
- Thread starter
- #159
SoCal FZJ80 said:
You're more than welcome to the take off parts, but I'd want to document condition before shipping.
Have to research door skin swap. I'm not a body man, by any means.
Noted on cutting. I've chased rubbing issues on the other build for a year, and don't want to on this one, especially considering that the body panels will be painted or lined, well in advance of cycling suspension.
- Thread starter
- #160
SoCal FZJ80 said:
For the record, and I only asked because I was on the phone with Beno, but to buy four new LC door skins cost nearly what a good 80 cost. Haha.
I had asked about the a replacement roof skin (no rack, spoiler, or sunroof) a while back and only thought it was expensive. In comparison to four door skins, it's a bargain.
