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[Delancy]

Whiteline HD.

White Brothers makes cycle exhaust. Had on quad the first go around.

I THINK if going to the trouble to swap the OE on the rear, I'll be running a torsion bar set up. Not Currie's Anti-Rock, but the same basic design, "tuned" (sarcasm) for the vehicle weight and possibly dual rate. (For the heck of it).

I can't say enough about the value of the rear mounted bar on the FJC. Even with tuned coil overs and shocks, the body roll wasn't predictable on road. After adding the rear bar, it feels like a go cart.

I don't think the same diameter would bode well for the 80, but there's many options for sourcing other than Currie.

 

[devildogcruiser25]

Yeah I knew white bros was wrong. Almost went with white guys but knew that was wrong. After I finally found the thread I saw you had commented on it so I guess you've seen it before.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[Delancy]

Almost went with white guys but knew that was wrong.

It doesn't sound PC, at least. Hahahaha.

 

[kbahus]

The shop I work for is a Whteline distributor, I will have to look into what they have to offer when I get back next week. Maybe I can get a good deal on those bars.

 

[LT]

Whiteline HD.

White Brothers makes cycle exhaust. Had on quad the first go around.

I THINK if going to the trouble to swap the OE on the rear, I'll be running a torsion bar set up. Not Currie's Anti-Rock, but the same basic design, "tuned" (sarcasm) for the vehicle weight and possibly dual rate. (For the heck of it).

I can't say enough about the value of the rear mounted bar on the FJC. Even with tuned coil overs and shocks, the body roll wasn't predictable on road. After adding the rear bar, it feels like a go cart.

I don't think the same diameter would bode well for the 80, but there's many options for sourcing other than Currie.

Want to know your tipping point? It's much easier than you think. All you have to do is dump your pink panty on it's side and after that you'll have a good grasp of truly how far sideways you can go before trying to play dead.

 

[Delancy]

As far as I know, Whiteline only offers the rear.

As with any suspension change, there's a yin and yang, a compromise between perceived gains and the negative affects elsewhere.

While a stiffer rear anti-sway can minimize perceived low speed body roll, at higher speeds, it's reported to deceive past the point that steering can correct. (I realize we all know these aren't high speed vehicles)

Met a local fabricator who builds sprint car chassis when reworking the Gobi rack on the FJC (guys a wizard with tube) that used to build NASCARs (again, I realize these ain't race cars, but the principle makes sense).

He said that the more impactful changes, as far as mitigating body roll without the negative under/oversteer effect, comes from a balance between the front and rear, with a 60/40 split between the two.

Had him rethread the jacked up Currie links that All Pro sent (not many places in Tulsa would cut LH threads) for the FJC Anti-Rock, and he threw out all these equations with weight bias, body roll center, and a bunch of other crap that went over my head, at the end explaining to me why the anti rock bar was a bad idea, because no consideration was given to the fronts ability, and that coil overs have little to do with the mechanics of the overall anti sway characteristics, because they're unpredictable.

When I said, "it's not a race car, but a 4x4", he made the case that predictability was as important on off road as a NASCAR, and that mitigating body roll within, at least, a 40/60 ratio, would be as advantageous on road as off.

No travel implications were discussed, so it's probably a "can't have your cake and eat it to" sort of deal.

 

[Delancy]

Want to know your tipping point? It's much easier than you think. All you have to do is dump your pink panty on it's side and after that you'll have a good grasp of truly how far sideways you can go before trying to play dead.

The Pink Panty Clif.

 

[TheBigBoy]

You spend all this time and money on your truck. And then want to run sway bars?

White line.

 

[TheBigBoy]

That tippy factor. It's tippy because you have hardly any wheel travel. Once it's maxed and your tire leaves the ground, it will rock and balance back and forth. That doesn't happen when all 4 shoes stay in contact. I think you owe it to yourself to ditch the front sway bar and remove/disconnect the rear and test it on some tracks.

 

[TheBigBoy]

As far as I know, Whiteline only offers the rear.

As with any suspension change, there's a yin and yang, a compromise between perceived gains and the negative affects elsewhere.

While a stiffer rear anti-sway can minimize perceived low speed body roll, at higher speeds, it's reported to deceive past the point that steering can correct. (I realize we all know these aren't high speed vehicles)

Met a local fabricator who builds sprint car chassis when reworking the Gobi rack on the FJC (guys a wizard with tube) that used to build NASCARs (again, I realize these ain't race cars, but the principle makes sense).

He said that the more impactful changes, as far as mitigating body roll without the negative under/oversteer effect, comes from a balance between the front and rear, with a 60/40 split between the two.

Had him rethread the jacked up Currie links that All Pro sent (not many places in Tulsa would cut LH threads) for the FJC Anti-Rock, and he threw out all these equations with weight bias, body roll center, and a bunch of other **** that went over my head, at the end explaining to me why the anti rock bar was a bad idea, because no consideration was given to the fronts ability, and that coil overs have little to do with the mechanics of the overall anti sway characteristics, because they're unpredictable.

When I said, "it's not a race car, but a 4x4", he made the case that predictability was as important on off road as a NASCAR, and that mitigating body roll within, at least, a 40/60 ratio, would be as advantageous on road as off.

No travel implications were discussed, so it's probably a "can't have your cake and eat it to" sort of deal.

No offense, but Offroad is a totally different story. Predictability usually refers to changed geometry and feed back eg... A radius arm front gives the driver feed back during articulation. A linked suspension you stick your head out the window and say "wow, what's the tire doing way down there". It also gives no feedback to the point it rolls over.


Sways for onroad - sure. Offroad - why bother even going wheeling.

 

[Delancy]

No offense

None taken.

Sways for onroad - sure.

Not trailering, lots of highway miles just to go wheeling, all at 110-130kmh, so attempting to get the best of both worlds.

If I have to pull the front sway to off road, so be it. (Hopefully, it'll clear the DS). Sure drives nice on road with both attached.

Offroad - why bother even going wheeling.

 

[azTony]

The tippy factor is just because you haven't found the trucks limits yet. Even with high end shock's, propper valving, AND changed geometry. I would still run a rear sway bar onroad. Offroad, it's of no benefit at all. Front is the first to go, back gets upgraded with disconnects. I'm finally getting back onto my "special" sway bars some time in Jan.

So how about a picture of your rear disconnects for the sway bar?

 

[kbahus]

So how about a picture of your rear disconnects for the sway bar?

+1, furthermore how do you secure it with it disconnected?

 

[TheBigBoy]

I think I must have posted this pic a dozen time.

See the spherical ball at the bottom and the disconnect pin. The other side has a crimped piece of hang wire for when both pins are disconnected. But I'm starting work on my new sway bar soon. I don't run a front swaybar at all ever on any of my trucks. I find it much much nicer.

 

[TheBigBoy]

None taken.




Not trailering, lots of highway miles just to go wheeling, all at 110-130kmh, so attempting to get the best of both worlds.

If I have to pull the front sway to off road, so be it. (Hopefully, it'll clear the DS). Sure drives nice on road with both attached.

The problem with the buggy pic is its the same as I've said before. Onroad - you need a very strong and stiff sway bar for good handling. That sway bar is weak and good for Offroad. The IDEAL set up, is strong/great onroad. And completely removed for off road. That buggy also has customised suspension/link geometry.

 

[ledgend80]

I think I must have posted this pic a dozen time.

See the spherical ball at the bottom and the disconnect pin. The other side has a crimped piece of hang wire for when both pins are disconnected. But I'm starting work on my new sway bar soon. I don't run a front swaybar at all ever on any of my trucks. I find it much much nicer.

How much have the rear bumpstops been extended?

 

[azTony]

I think I must have posted this pic a dozen time.

See the spherical ball at the bottom and the disconnect pin. The other side has a crimped piece of hang wire for when both pins are disconnected. But I'm starting work on my new sway bar soon. I don't run a front swaybar at all ever on any of my trucks. I find it much much nicer.

So when disconnected you wire it up and during flex it does not bind up? Just trying to visualize how it works when wheeling.

 

[Delancy]

The problem with the buggy pic is the 80 ain't a buggy.

The sooner I embrace, the better. Hahaha.

Took me about an hour to type that previous reply, due to phone calls and other interruptions, and forgot the pics were still attached, never developed the point.

 

[Delancy]

So when disconnected you wire it up and during flex it does not bind up? Just trying to visualize how it works when wheeling.

Sure suck to have it poking through the floor.

I still contend that there shouldn't be anything moving around, unattached.

The path of travel is too difficult to determine, too many variables to pre-plan for, and the one unknown is all it'd take to do major damage.

Believe we can have our cake and eat it to, regarding, at least, the rear sway.

The Powerwagon sways are no longer economical, plus they're too short for the rear, not adaptable to the front.

A splined, clutch like apparatus would be great, but I lack the skills.

(Essentially, two splined faces that are opposing, allowing for enough separation for both "halves" of the rear sway to freely move, yet strong enough when connected (don't ask me how to pressure the connection) to still function. Could be done like the buggies that have on the fly rear driveshaft disconnects, using electric drill motors.....I think.)

This is what I'm leaning towards, FOR CONVERSATION SAKE.

ORO-ish Dual rate, one stiff enough for on, the secondary rate primarily only being there to allow the disconnect to occur. If its 10% of the primary bar, then it won't hinder articulation, yet it does allow for an easy disconnect.






Here's the case for.

Moves the rock magnet arms out of harms way.

Keeps all moving components safely attached.

Can be sized to achieve the 80% ratio in the rear, if no front is present.

Easily disconnected from primary, secondary doesn't hinder articulation, nor travel.

My thinking is the sway bars can't be abandoned on a street able rig. Don't want to cobble up, nor remove for off road use, not create an unseen hazard.

Problems may be the real estate required where my tires already nearly rub the frame. The anti rock will work, but these arms are thicker, not sure by how much.

I'm not trailering, and all for the sake of conversation, because I'm pre-planning, at this point.

 

[TheBigBoy]

The sway bar arms have never ever fouled on anything at all. But it's still a manual set up. The new sway bar links will be in cab controlled and never have a problem with any fouling as they will always remain level with the lower control arms.

There is no talk of trailering a rig . Why we go to all the trouble to get it driving nice on the road.