You'd save a lot of weight if you chopped it down to a two door 
. Though the front appendages are a bit ugly....
. Though the front appendages are a bit ugly....
Builds 80 series where to start! Again.... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter scottryana
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Whoa!!!
Sent from my iPhone
Sent from my iPhone
- Thread starter
- #683
Well at least one of the sways showed up. My buddy has gone off the radar haven't heard from him for over a week. Probably means no work at all to report on the manifold. Who's idea was this?? Lol
Sounds like a good time to start stripping the lady.
Lots of that required for the hotrod shop. Also she needs to be clean for the cage.
Would the adjustable swaybar not have been better with the drop you planning. I assume this is the front swaybar?
Are you thinking about castor correction bushes in reverse to sort your castor?
Lots of that required for the hotrod shop. Also she needs to be clean for the cage.
Would the adjustable swaybar not have been better with the drop you planning. I assume this is the front swaybar?
Are you thinking about castor correction bushes in reverse to sort your castor?
- Thread starter
- #685
Yeah it would be but I have a major test Friday so it will have to wait until after that.
There really are no options for adjustable swaybars for the 80, at least none that I could find. And really the only difference between an adjustable and none adjustable is the holes in the end of the bar moving the relative position of the links, if I feel like I really need to change something I suppose I could drill additional holes.
I am not worried about caster at all. In fact I think caster will improve with the small drop I have planned. Many fast road going cars have a lot more camber than the 80 even if you add 2-3 degrees for the drop. It really should just improve the return to center feel and high speed stability.
There really are no options for adjustable swaybars for the 80, at least none that I could find. And really the only difference between an adjustable and none adjustable is the holes in the end of the bar moving the relative position of the links, if I feel like I really need to change something I suppose I could drill additional holes.
I am not worried about caster at all. In fact I think caster will improve with the small drop I have planned. Many fast road going cars have a lot more camber than the 80 even if you add 2-3 degrees for the drop. It really should just improve the return to center feel and high speed stability.
Ryan,
Good luck for the exam.
For afterwards though and to illustrate an auto application [this batt. uses my preferred cells]
EV-Power | Lithium Battery 12V/40Ah (WB-LP12V40AH)
They export from Europe even if ordered from their US dist. I'm told, so about US$90 freight??
However CALB USA distribute good cells, buy 4 of these with connectors, make a simple frame casing to hold them in gentle compression, bolt them together in series, connect to vehicle as per normal. It's very simply done.
CALB CA Series
Lastly from me on this, here is a U tube link to test of the above cells big brother by a very respected marine electrical engineer not that far from you on LiFePO4's capabilities.
He quite understandably for a man in his position started out as something of a doubter a few years ago when we were on the same forum but now they're on his own boat. LOL
He's very thorough and one of the best in the US I think.
That 40ah LiPo should comfortably handle what you plan, it powers Lambos, 4 and 5litre Fords, marine diesels....
For an expedition rig I'll go bigger to better use the increased storage benefits by volume with some net weight gain.
I'll go back to just being an observant supporter now. LOL
Cheers,
Paul
Good luck for the exam.
For afterwards though and to illustrate an auto application [this batt. uses my preferred cells]
EV-Power | Lithium Battery 12V/40Ah (WB-LP12V40AH)
They export from Europe even if ordered from their US dist. I'm told, so about US$90 freight??
However CALB USA distribute good cells, buy 4 of these with connectors, make a simple frame casing to hold them in gentle compression, bolt them together in series, connect to vehicle as per normal. It's very simply done.
CALB CA Series
Lastly from me on this, here is a U tube link to test of the above cells big brother by a very respected marine electrical engineer not that far from you on LiFePO4's capabilities.
He quite understandably for a man in his position started out as something of a doubter a few years ago when we were on the same forum but now they're on his own boat. LOL
He's very thorough and one of the best in the US I think.
That 40ah LiPo should comfortably handle what you plan, it powers Lambos, 4 and 5litre Fords, marine diesels....
For an expedition rig I'll go bigger to better use the increased storage benefits by volume with some net weight gain.
I'll go back to just being an observant supporter now. LOL
Cheers,
Paul
- Thread starter
- #687
Wow that is really interesting Paul, but just watching that video I can tell I would have a lot to learn about the tech. I watched a few more on youtube and saw people are pairing them with capacitors for engine starting, etc. and many people are calling them a starting battery, but does that mean they aren't good as a "house" battery for your other various loads?
Ryan,
No mate, quite the opposite.
They started off as high performance storage batteries capable of remarkable performance compared to FLA.
The recharge rate is even more impressive than the discharge capacity. Recharging after a startup is a snap.
At the same time that instant discharge power from them did and does an excellent starting battery.
The cells I've listed are both deep cycle and starting combined.
The 40ah I suggested is roughly equal to a lead acid battery of twice that size, perhaps more. You will have plenty of reserve power, if unsure simply go to the 60AH cells.
We'll be using up UP TO 2x100ahx12v Winston [I'll assemble them] for both starting, winch, storage, fridge, 240v ac inverter etc.
My limiting factor is where to put them ie footprint, even 2x60ah will give me more usable power than most common twin bat sets and go a long way in offsetting the winch weight when added.
They require care but no more than conventional batts, just different. Same cautions as FLA, don't overcharge or allow them to run flat. Neither event would be as catastrophic as some make out, the cells I've mentioned are usually very robust, proven over at least ten years of marine life all over the world.
Just don't use a normal [FLA] mains auto battery charger unless it is programmable. A de-sulphation cycle would kill it!
In an auto starter situation your alternator regulator will charge and cutoff as normal, that's all LiPo requires.
It doesn't cost much to add a low volt/hi volt cut out which I'll be doing for two batts but that's addressing a 'bank' situation when camping with fridge, lights, laptops etc.
Don't overthink the tech!! LOL LOL [I suspect you will any way] It's really simple for a one battery [4 cell] application.
I'm sure you'll catch on but there are many vested interests around who need to scare people into spending money on what they don't need, expensive management systems and 'really special' chargers being the two top examples.
BMS's maybe have their place on very large multiples of cells and in the EV world but not for what we do.
Many reputable professionals in the boating world rightly add a BMS to a bank install to cover themselves and their warranty but more often, IMO, to protect the bank from maintenance challenged owners. LOL
Experienced cruisers have been maintaining very large banks for years without any 'BMS' but with appropriate voltage regulators and alarms. They have had some form of this for FLA banks as well.
Our vehicles have these already built in for one battery and we add the extra switches etc when we add to that.
A simple, voltage limited charging regime is like filling your gas tank ie. fill at the pumps best capacity until the pump clicks off, hang up pump. That's it your full. No trickling any more in, just a clean disconnect.
Lastly, there is an expert on the tube giving advice about LiFe batts vs FLA and freezing temps, here's a free tip:
put a load on the LiFe bat, eg turn the lights on for few seconds, turn off then re-crank, if it still doesn't fire repeat. The battery should now warm and perform normally.
Keep it simple, LOL
Paul
No mate, quite the opposite.
They started off as high performance storage batteries capable of remarkable performance compared to FLA.
The recharge rate is even more impressive than the discharge capacity. Recharging after a startup is a snap.
At the same time that instant discharge power from them did and does an excellent starting battery.
The cells I've listed are both deep cycle and starting combined.
The 40ah I suggested is roughly equal to a lead acid battery of twice that size, perhaps more. You will have plenty of reserve power, if unsure simply go to the 60AH cells.
We'll be using up UP TO 2x100ahx12v Winston [I'll assemble them] for both starting, winch, storage, fridge, 240v ac inverter etc.
My limiting factor is where to put them ie footprint, even 2x60ah will give me more usable power than most common twin bat sets and go a long way in offsetting the winch weight when added.
They require care but no more than conventional batts, just different. Same cautions as FLA, don't overcharge or allow them to run flat. Neither event would be as catastrophic as some make out, the cells I've mentioned are usually very robust, proven over at least ten years of marine life all over the world.
Just don't use a normal [FLA] mains auto battery charger unless it is programmable. A de-sulphation cycle would kill it!
In an auto starter situation your alternator regulator will charge and cutoff as normal, that's all LiPo requires.
It doesn't cost much to add a low volt/hi volt cut out which I'll be doing for two batts but that's addressing a 'bank' situation when camping with fridge, lights, laptops etc.
Don't overthink the tech!! LOL LOL [I suspect you will any way] It's really simple for a one battery [4 cell] application.
I'm sure you'll catch on but there are many vested interests around who need to scare people into spending money on what they don't need, expensive management systems and 'really special' chargers being the two top examples.
BMS's maybe have their place on very large multiples of cells and in the EV world but not for what we do.
Many reputable professionals in the boating world rightly add a BMS to a bank install to cover themselves and their warranty but more often, IMO, to protect the bank from maintenance challenged owners. LOL
Experienced cruisers have been maintaining very large banks for years without any 'BMS' but with appropriate voltage regulators and alarms. They have had some form of this for FLA banks as well.
Our vehicles have these already built in for one battery and we add the extra switches etc when we add to that.
A simple, voltage limited charging regime is like filling your gas tank ie. fill at the pumps best capacity until the pump clicks off, hang up pump. That's it your full. No trickling any more in, just a clean disconnect.
Lastly, there is an expert on the tube giving advice about LiFe batts vs FLA and freezing temps, here's a free tip:
put a load on the LiFe bat, eg turn the lights on for few seconds, turn off then re-crank, if it still doesn't fire repeat. The battery should now warm and perform normally.
Keep it simple, LOL
Paul
- Thread starter
- #689
Ha! Wow I had been thinking about this a lot and was really worried that 18mm of aluminum would not be enough to hold the M14 threads bolting the hat to the hub. Was thinking about using extra high strength 7050 aluminum etc.
Sometimes the easiest solution is also the most obvious. Why not just make the aluminum hat a little thinner and use a thin steel nut on the back. Could use a shouldered bolt and a tighter fit in the hat as well.
Sometimes the easiest solution is also the most obvious. Why not just make the aluminum hat a little thinner and use a thin steel nut on the back. Could use a shouldered bolt and a tighter fit in the hat as well.
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- Thread starter
- #690
Please PM me if you have a hook up for aluminum.
I am looking at over $700 for the (2) 1-1.125" x 10-12" x 10-12" pieces I need for the brake hats. ugh. lol.
I am looking at over $700 for the (2) 1-1.125" x 10-12" x 10-12" pieces I need for the brake hats. ugh. lol.
- Thread starter
- #692
would like to use 7075 or 7050.
- Thread starter
- #694
Wow those guys are about 1/2 the price of the other 3 places I have gotten quotes from. I will have to check them out!
They're close to price of BMG metals south of Baltimore where I get most of my steel from, if BMG doesn't have it then that's my go to.
Best wishes for the exams tomorrow. [emoji6]
We'd better not see a post until tonight otherwise we know you haven't had your nose in the books!
- Thread starter
- #698
Eh test is over. Had been up since 3:35am. Did fine, eh. Over this specific course. haha.
I did order the aluminum for the hats.
I ended up using 7075-T651 as that tempering was better than the offering of their 7050-T7451.
It is still more than twice the tensile strength 83,000psi vs 35,000psi of the 6061 most companies use for their aluminum hats.
2 Big chunks of aluminum 1.25"x12"x12"
I did order the aluminum for the hats.
I ended up using 7075-T651 as that tempering was better than the offering of their 7050-T7451.
It is still more than twice the tensile strength 83,000psi vs 35,000psi of the 6061 most companies use for their aluminum hats.
2 Big chunks of aluminum 1.25"x12"x12"
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- Thread starter
- #699
Had about an hour and a half to goof off on the truck today.
- Pulled the 2nd and 3rd row seats
- Pulled the roof rack off
- Pulled the wind deflector
- Tried to pull the door mirrors but learned the plug is inside the door panel
- Attempted to pull the receiver but without penetrating fluid or power tools that was a no go
- Pulled the front bumper and grill
Truck is great no rust (except strangely on the receiver hitch which is pretty scaly)
Also re-evaluating my idea on the front grill, I am going to need to look at it very carefully my first idea would not have given as finished a look as I wanted so not quite sure what I am going to do there.
- Pulled the 2nd and 3rd row seats
- Pulled the roof rack off
- Pulled the wind deflector
- Tried to pull the door mirrors but learned the plug is inside the door panel
- Attempted to pull the receiver but without penetrating fluid or power tools that was a no go
- Pulled the front bumper and grill
Truck is great no rust (except strangely on the receiver hitch which is pretty scaly)
Also re-evaluating my idea on the front grill, I am going to need to look at it very carefully my first idea would not have given as finished a look as I wanted so not quite sure what I am going to do there.
- Thread starter
- #700
Still no sway bars from Whiteline. SO don't want to do the suspension yet.
I did spend some time today messing with the cladding. This truck is just fighting every step. Taking twice as long as my silver truck. Every little piece does not want to come out. ha. Also removed the rear wiper today.
Well I should be able to finish the cladding removal and at least get some wheels on tomorrow not going to be pretty but it can sit like that while I wait for the suspension parts. Then I can finally get it dropped and over to paint.
I have new tail lights so they old ones will go, also when I get it in the air for suspension I will have them remove the ugly old receiver hitch.
I am going to have 5 LX wheels with 285s that are in real good shape for sale pretty cheap for anyone in the Richmond area. lol.
