ARCHIVE 80 Series Lock Box- poll and questions

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Here's some gun pics. My Springfield Armory 1911 won't fit. My seecamp 32 is easy. My Sig Sauer 239 is a little tight but may make it. My Walther ppk looks like it will fit. My ruger 357 just might but fairly tight. The cardboard cutout is your previous dimensions. My go to is either my seecamp or sig.

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I like the larger Scout version since I don't own any sub compacts, it would also help me keep the lower half of the console uncluttered if I have less height to fill up on top of the box.
Either F & G for the quick release key chain.

Good point. Less clutter on top would be beneficial as long as the depth doesn't leave criminal minded people with the impression there is something hiding underneath.
 
I'm a little worried about the space taken up by the locking hardware inside the box but I'm hoping I can work around it for my application?

I'd prefer the lower box for the stealth benefit("Nothing to see here, folks, just move along...") this seems like a brilliant idea. Put some junk in the console on top of the concealment mat and everything is completely hidden. I don't lock up my truck much and don't leave anything valuable in either the glove compartment or console. Now, if you start opening up panels in the back there's where all the tools and other good stuff is, but most crime around here is just kids screwing around or junkies looking for a quick score. They're not going to spend a lot of time or do much work looking. I've lost some CD's out of the console and the change out of the ashtray to thieves over the last 25 years but that's about it. I recently changed jobs and now work in a place that's a whole lot less gun-friendly than my last gig, so I'm looking for a lock box to secure and conceal a pistol since I can't bring it along with me any more. I'm really hoping this box is it.

Aaand Joey? There is no commercially available snubnose revolver made in .40, did you mean a semi-automatic pistol or was it a different caliber maybe? I'm not trying to be a terminology Nazi I'm just curious, since I'm following this closely and it seems like the box depth would preclude some of the larger caliber revolver cylinders from fitting. S&W did make a few .40 revolvers in the past but they were all pretty large guns on their L-frame so I was wondering. Some of the 5 shot .44 and possibly .45 revolver cylinders should fit but I don't believe any of the 6-shot large caliber ones would by the time the padding and all was added in. Tredwards pics above don't take either that or the space needed for the swing of the locking tab into account so I don't believe either his Sig or Ruger will fit but the Seecamp and Walther should. Looks like most subcompacts and snubnose revolvers should fit just fine. Compact autos will be tight, some will and some won't by the look of things, and full size pistols will be pretty much out. That works for me.

There's also the folded lip on the lock side that we're not seeing here yet and that will also have an effect on fitment. Also, which end is the lock on? I'm assuming the front end when it's mounted? Will the key in the lock hit the console cover and how much will that restrict line of sight and access? The spring hinges should keep things from flopping closed if you can't get a 'past-90 degree' lid opening and that is a great touch. It's obviously not a fast-draw counter-carjacking arrangement but it should be very low profile and sneakily stealthy. I'm really liking the concept and can't wait to try it out!

You also need a cooler name like the 'console ninja 9000' or some such, y'know, for reasons involving the marketplace....:flipoff2:

EDIT: Huh! Apparently there are a few .40 revolvers out there, Chiappa has made some and Charter Arms is supposed to have a .40 model as well. My apologies! Geez, you get away from the culture for a couple years and look what happens when you're not paying attention...
 
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With all the zombie-driven Priuses mindlessly piloting their "H for P" stickers through an increasingly vacuous intellectual landscape... One must be prepared for the coming zombie apocalypse!

Yes the priuses that take a million miles to become carbon foot print neutral, there isn't any logic for these people, the only common denominator is "they know what's best for the rest of us"
 
I opt for the Scout and either the B or G clip.
 
Went to the metal shop to approve a modified "die" they made up. It uses the brake vs the punch. The results were promising but ultimately disastrous. After some discussion we have decided NOT to use the punch die and instead cut out the hole at .875" and design, bend and spot weld a shallow box that will affectively do the same think. It means another piece laser cut and bent, plus it means $1400 is down the tubes for the die, but it gets the result I need and they can crank those out today after I approve the design. Here you can see the issues of the new die. This is one of about a dozen test pieces.

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This box has been a huge headache for you. I feel for ya man. Keep your head up. I'm sure it's going to be a great product when it all comes together. And I've gotten a newer, much smaller firearm for CC so no great need for a large box. Either way it's going to be a nice addition to the rig for things that need an extra level of security.
 
Yeah, I've been brain storming ;)

Doesn't the die maker owe you a die made to the proper dimensions? Seems like making it to some other unknown dimension wasn't delivering on an agreement.

Keep at it, you'll get it and when you are done, we'll all get a nice lockbox. Thanks for the attention to detail!
 
Yeah take your time and don't sweat it. I'm waiting patiently for active camouflage, retractable spinning blades (for use on the 405 :cheers:), and some type of deployable, tire-bursting, anti-tailgater device. Do your thing. :meh:
CALTROPS! A remote activated dump hopper for caltrops that fits the spare tire mount would be pretty epic!

Plus, I'm no expert but it looks to me from the samples like the press is the problem more than the die. Maybe if the operation were sped up and the die hit harder the metal would take the shape without cracking or deforming the plate? Just wondering...:meh:
 
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or heating the metal, going thinner on the material, shallower die, have a fine ass chick operator and not an overweight 300 lb sweaty DUDE mashing so hard on the press, etc!!
 
Doesn't the die maker owe you a die made to the proper dimensions? Seems like making it to some other unknown dimension wasn't delivering on an agreement.

Keep at it, you'll get it and when you are done, we'll all get a nice lockbox. Thanks for the attention to detail!

Agreed. It sounds like you may need to work up a No. 6 on the die maker.

 

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