Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Will the electrical panel work on both driver and passenger sides? I already have power routed to the drivers side for my fridge and compressor...would be preferable if I don't need to run wiring to the passenger side.
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I keep thinking I want a pelican as well. Although they don't overstuff quite as well if needed. Did you get an empty one and fill it on your own or did you get the prefilled EMS one?
I am yet to do a lot of research on solar management setup's, but I do know that getting solar setup in my rig is very high on the priority list since I often forget to shut my fridge off and then end up with a dead primary battery. Having a backup battery and being able to jump start myself by flipping a switch is great...but I would rather do that less often.
For the driver side setup, my ideal use for this mount would be all electrical. I want an LED camp light as I often cook on the tailgate. An inverter outlett and 12v/USB outlets are great. If you could also figure out a way to integrate one of the solar management units into your design that would be stupendous. A lot of us already have power running to the rear for fridges/compressors etc. hooking up a solar controller into that existing cabling would be simple...finding a good location to mount the controller is the issue.
Will the electrical panel work on both driver and passenger sides? I already have power routed to the drivers side for my fridge and compressor...would be preferable if I don't need to run wiring to the passenger side.
I am yet to do a lot of research on solar management setup's, but I do know that getting solar setup in my rig is very high on the priority list since I often forget to shut my fridge off and then end up with a dead primary battery. Having a backup battery and being able to jump start myself by flipping a switch is great...but I would rather do that less often.
For the driver side setup, my ideal use for this mount would be all electrical. I want an LED camp light as I often cook on the tailgate. An inverter outlett and 12v/USB outlets are great. If you could also figure out a way to integrate one of the solar management units into your design that would be stupendous. A lot of us already have power running to the rear for fridges/compressors etc. hooking up a solar controller into that existing cabling would be simple...finding a good location to mount the controller is the issue.
Don't forget the OEM bag in the LX, already equipped with Velcro:
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I've actually been researching this. Almost everyone mounts the controller under the hood. And I will be as well. Rather than having it taking up real estate in the cabin. I'm buying the Renogy 100w fixed panel system. It's about $140 IIRC and it is pretty simple to set up. I'm debating running two, inline to have 200w. It's complete overkill but would be a more symmetrical appearance on the roof. I think I posted the link earlier in this thread. There are quite a few guys on here that have this setup and have had excellent results with it.
The overal depth of this unit is 2.17", not sure how much depth you have to work with, but if you could get about 1.5" of setback, then you would be able to mount this unit deep enough that the wiring could be completely hidden behind your panel, and then routed inside the D pillar to the roof.
This morningstar Prostar PS-30M seems to have good reviews. It's a PWM controller, so not ideal in really cold climates <45 degress, but should be good for most.
Amazon.com : Morningstar Prostar PS-30M Solar Charge Controller / Regulator : Renewable Energy Charge Controllers : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Here are the dimensions: 4 mounting holes are 5.368" x 3.504"
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I just went back and found your blueprint for the larger side panel. Unless the design has changed, looks like your panel is 6.97" center to center between mounting screws.
The overall width of the morningstar unit above is 6.01", which leaves 0.96" of space...or 0.48" on each side. seems it would fit nicely.
Joey- your idea of a mounting plate behind the face would be ideal, and could be combined with a large opening in the face so that a unit such as this could be sunk in.
The overal depth of this unit is 2.17", not sure how much depth you have to work with, but if you could get about 1.5" of setback, then you would be able to mount this unit deep enough that the wiring could be completely hidden behind your panel, and then routed inside the D pillar to the roof.
Since there are hols in the roof for most 80s thanks to the factory rack the rear roof area would in ideal to run cables to the outside. I am planning(for a while now) to run my light bar wires that way and now with this a solar charge controller. Although I think the controller could be mounted behind the plastics body panels as it does not need frequent physical access and save he quarter panel box for things do need frequent and easy access. This is the only place that's at eye level and have easy access even with back cargo area loaded up with whatever you load your 80 up with.
I want a controller like the one I linked to that shows me what is going on with my charging (Battery voltage, amp draw, amp charge) so that as I am camping and running down the batteries (or preferably charging them), I can easily keep an eye on everything. I don't want to have to start pulling panels or opening the bonnet to determine the electrical health.Since there are hols in the roof for most 80s thanks to the factory rack the rear roof area would in ideal to run cables to the outside. I am planning(for a while now) to run my light bar wires that way and now with this a solar charge controller. Although I think the controller could be mounted behind the plastics body panels as it does not need frequent physical access and save he quarter panel box for things do need frequent and easy access. This is the only place that's at eye level and have easy access even with back cargo area loaded up with whatever you load your 80 up with.
Just got sent this charge controller by MorningStar. 30A max solar and 30A Max load. No mention of distance to the battery requirement. Temps good from -40 to +60*C
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