80-Series axle advice needed (1 Viewer)

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Land Speeder said:
I've yet to have an OEM birf last more than 2 rides on Lorena with 40's. She has seriously been down more than wheelable. This last break took out both birfs, Aussie locker pins and a handful of teeth in the ring gear.
I'm going to try longfield superset, I've got a R&P that hopefully can get to Longfield for cryo treatment soon, and I'm going to buy his flanges with bigger/extra dowels and run ARP hub studs. After that.... I'm done with theae axles...
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I'll bet our problem is the Aussie locker. When they ratchet and unload they put shock loads into the system the axles and particularly the birfs just can't handle especially with huge tires. It's a recurrent theme-aussie + cruiser axles + oversize tires = broken stuff.

Anyway, personal opinion, but an 80 series front axle with tires over 35 inches is asking for trouble. Especially with an "automatic" type locker. I hope the Longs solve your problem, but it's time to upgrade.

Creaper-Would it help you at all to have my bent housing? I'd be happy to send it if it could be of any value, but it's bent on both sides. Anyway, if you want to straighten the housing and then swap, it's yours for shipping.

I got to agree that starting out for a day of wheeling with equipment you know is broken is not fair to your wheeling buds. I'd be pissed if one of our local guys did that and then had to be hauled out of the Rubicon or worse yet, Dusy, where you're 3 days from help.
 
Naw, Terryjmatthew has an ARB and he's breaking just as much as me at the same obstacles.... With 36 iroks. It's like you say, over 35 is asking for it.
But then, we're Southern Rock Bouncing.
 
I would agree with you guys about wheeling with broken junk in the situations you guys are describing. My trails are not like that first off and I will be taking it easy. Like I said, if it breaks, I pull the ds and flanges and DRIVE MYSELF TO THE TRAILER. I would never put my buddies in a position that would put them or their rigs in harms way. Being that you guys have never met or wheeled with me, it does need to be spoken and I appreciate you bringing it up.
 
Chad, I never said you shouldn't. I'd actually consider it. Especially since you know how to wrench on it yourself, and given you just said exactly what to do to become mobile again... I have zero issues helping folks out who help themselves.
I recently took my junk out on a ride half broke. Just be extremely easy on it... as little torque as possible.
 
Land Speeder said:
Naw, Terryjmatthew has an ARB and he's breaking just as much as me at the same obstacles.... With 36 iroks. It's like you say, over 35 is asking for it.
But then, we're Southern Rock Bouncing.
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Any video of you guys bouncing like Tim Cameron?
 
I definitely wouldn't throw the current gear set back in the rig. You'll be on the trail, and loose the 3rd then have to spend the whole day playing first aid to the rig. I am in an ever present quest to find ways to lighten my rig and I'm still at 6K lbs w/ some serious future cutting and chopping still to come (biggest challenge is in the front end, there isn't all that much that you can remove and that is the area that needs the most attention).

I would straighten the housing and throw in some gussets to strengthen it. Get some new gears and take it easy on the skinny pedal while you save for some bigger axles. In the mean time, shed as much weight as possible (AC unit, front signals and inner fenders + bordering sheet metal lines over the fenders alone are over 50lbs ;) )

It'll all work out in the end. Just be patient and persistent w/ it Chad.:beer:
 
I checked into pricing for gears and install kit... I'll have to put it back together anyway just so I can move the rig around while I'm saving up for them. I hate that I'll have to do everything twice but I can't leave it torn apart in the shop for months on end.
 
CreeperSleeper said:
I checked into pricing for gears and install kit... I'll have to put it back together anyway just so I can move the rig around while I'm saving up for them. I hate that I'll have to do everything twice but I can't leave it torn apart in the shop for months on end.
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I feel your pain. I recently discovered broken teeth on my ring and actually assembled it with a temporary ring, because i thought the issue was the transfer case... so the temp ring was to test while i waited on a R&P set to install... had to pull the ring anyway but it ended up being the Aussie locker in the front, broken pins that i did not see upon first inspection.
I'm going to be putting this R&P in hopefully this week for GSMTR and picking up another set of used OEM to send to have cryo'd.... that is... if he'll take used OEM R&P for cryo.
 
Land Speeder said:
I feel your pain. I recently discovered broken teeth on my ring and actually assembled it with a temporary ring, because i thought the issue was the transfer case... so the temp ring was to test while i waited on a R&P set to install... had to pull the ring anyway but it ended up being the Aussie locker in the front, broken pins that i did not see upon first inspection.
I'm going to be putting this R&P in hopefully this week for GSMTR and picking up another set of used OEM to send to have cryo'd.... that is... if he'll take used OEM R&P for cryo.
Click to expand...

Are you running 4.10s or 5.29s?

I could mash the teeth off of them regularly with 5.29s no matter how tight the preload etc. Even when I thought things were fine, twice upon teardown I found teeth still intact but with stress cracks all over visible on the ends of the teeth but still showing a good pattern and tight bearings. At the failure point but still holding on.

Same feeling as twisted splines, ya find out your broken when you werent really broken befpre you looked. :whoops:

I have gone back to stock 4.10s in the fj80elocker I run and have not had and issue since. Mine is in a 3400lb buggy tho not a heavy wagon.

I really think the ausie and locrite type lockers are tha cause of alot of problems. People buy them to save money over a detroit or arb but it costs them more in the long run.
 
I'm running stock 4.10's and will stay with them due to strength. Putting a crawlbox in sometime this year.
 
Land Speeder said:
I'm running stock 4.10's and will stay with them due to strength. Putting a crawlbox in sometime this year.
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thats the best move. Toyota gears are top quality also.

Im not sold on cryoed stuff really. Marlin brought one of his badass 1979 tcase output that he belived to be the strongest year made and it was cryoed also. This is just what Marlin was sure of. Swore up and down that year and cryoed was the best ever.

I was helping Bobby and loaded all 4 shafts we had in the axlebreaker that Bobby built at the hammers tin bender Jamo. The stock output shaft broke at 2500 ftlbs..... the 8620?allpro custom output broke at 2500ftlbs...... the super marlin CRYO shaft broke at 2500ftlbs......Bobbys cromo output broke at 4500ftlbs and was at tollerated more twist first. All the first threee broke at the exact same degrees of twist also.

Just my thoughts on cryo.
 
Land Speeder said:
....and I'm going to buy his flanges with bigger/extra dowels and run ARP hub studs. After that.... I'm done with theae axles...
Click to expand...

Good luck with the extra dowels. If you take a look at your hubs, you'll understand what I mean ;)

Creeper, what are you running on the pinion for preload? Crush sleeve or solid spacer?

I'm not sure you need an install kit. I'd probably just swap the ring & pinion and set it up with a solid spacer and call it a day. If the bearings look ok, then....they're probably ok :)
 
Chop Shop said:
thats the best move. Toyota gears are top quality also.

Im not sold on cryoed stuff really. Marlin brought one of his badass 1979 tcase output that he belived to be the strongest year made and it was cryoed also. This is just what Marlin was sure of. Swore up and down that year and cryoed was the best ever.

I was helping Bobby and loaded all 4 shafts we had in the axlebreaker that Bobby built at the hammers tin bender Jamo. The stock output shaft broke at 2500 ftlbs..... the 8620?allpro custom output broke at 2500ftlbs...... the super marlin CRYO shaft broke at 2500ftlbs......Bobbys cromo output broke at 4500ftlbs and was at tollerated more twist first. All the first threee broke at the exact same degrees of twist also.

Just my thoughts on cryo.
Click to expand...


I hear ya. Kinda. You say the stock 4.10's are the best but NOT to cryo them? "run'em as-is"? Why not cryo them? I mean, Bobby doesn't make a chromo 4.10 R&P...
 
Arya Ebrahimi said:
Good luck with the extra dowels. If you take a look at your hubs, you'll understand what I mean ;)

Creeper, what are you running on the pinion for preload? Crush sleeve or solid spacer?

I'm not sure you need an install kit. I'd probably just swap the ring & pinion and set it up with a solid spacer and call it a day. If the bearings look ok, then....they're probably ok :)
Click to expand...

I don't remember what the preload is, they have been in the rig for 4 years. I do know that I am running a crush sleeve. The only reason why I would like to swap out the bearings is the amount of metal flakes that have been running through the oil. The last time the 90w got changed was 3 yrs ago. :doh:
 
So what did you do? New gears or run as is?
 
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