80 Series AC leaks from somewhere.

[zedcruiser]

After replaceing the following parts over the last one year, my AC unit is still leaking R134 and am now at witts end with this.
The parts rpeplaced are condensor, drier, AC pump, evaporator Valve and all rubber pipes in the engine bay.
Having removed the evaporator i did not see any signs of AC die or leaks prior to replace the evaporator Valve (OEM).

If the evaporator is leakinig from within the fins would u be able to see the AC die under black light or not?

Has anyone had similar problems, orr can someone point me in the direction of a good automotive AC repair shop in Sterling VA. Should i try an pull of the fender and follow the AC aluminium line ?
Someone recommended using a sniffer. I have no clue as to where to begin in finding a sniffer to and what it does?

Any / All help would be appreciated.

 

[TX Cruiser]

Did you replace the schrader (Service Port) valves? They are the most common source for a leak on any a/c system. One year leak points in that direction, it's a slow one.

 

[jfz80]

x2 on the schraeder valves. Also might wanna check the O-ring along the line you mention that is routed back along driver fender. 2 dollar part that causes a lot of headaches.

I think this is the culprit landtank found to be his source for a slow leak.

edit.... harbour freight has a sniffer for +/- 75 bux. It "sniffs" or senses for freon. Put it on its weakest setting and probe around till you find a hit on the sensor. Then gradually increase the sensitivity and isolate the area of the leak. HTH

 

[1972FJ55]

Hi,
If the system has dye in it, than you should be able to use a UV light to see it. Yellow glasses help make the dye stand out better. Go over the system with the UV light and pay particular attention to any connections. There are small holes in the crimp sleeves on the hoses, which are also a spot to check. If the evap is leaking, you should see dye on it. It's possible the front seal on the compressor has a slow leak and isn't showing dye. A sniffer (electronic leak detector) can help pinpoint a leak, but a good one is expensive ($200+).

This shop is a MACS member, I don't know anything about them, but the theory is that they adhere to member best practices.
Precision Tune Auto Care, Inc.
PO Box 5000
Leesburg, VA 20177-0500
Phone: (703) 777-9095
Fax: (703) 771-9259

This is a link to a list of member shops in Virginia, in case there's one closer.
http://www.macsw.org/source/Members/cMemberShops.cfm?section=Resources#VA

 

[landtank]

my AC is finally working after 3 years and a bunch of parts. As Jason mentioned the final culprit was the O-ring in the joint along the DS fender. At least it's been working for thew last 7 days.

If I ever have to do this again I'd first swap out all three schrader valves and every O-ring in the system. Then replace the dryer filter , vac it down and charge it again. From my experience two full can on a fresh vac'd system should get it close and provide good cooling. This is what I did and if the system holds another week I'll top it off as directed.

Be sure to use plenty of oil on the O-rings during installation.

 

[landcruising]

Don't feel bad after much help reading threads from several members with break downs and pictures suggestions etc. I replaced the compresor, the expansion valve, most of the o rings except 2, a new reciever dryer, cleaned the evaporater, cleaned the condensor, then took to a shop for vacumm and r134. Drove back to work and froze my self on purpose since the AC hadn't worked in 2 years, only to find a leak in the condensor when I got out and heard a hiss. So back to the shop 1 hour after picking up today to have it evacuated. Lost all but .28lbs of the approx 2 pounds of r-134 added. The shop is nice enough though and sourced an aftermarket unit for $200 and will install for 1 hour labor and not charge for the refill and vac.

When cleaning the condensor I was suspicios of its condition with many bent fins and rust, should have know better and replaced it. Either way I saw no dye and thier was no indication of a leak there originally like the compressor and evaporater. So now I will be into the AC for $900 even after doing almost all the work myself and buying most parts from Dan. I just hope the aftermarket condensor will last. I could not imagine how much it would have cost paying someone to install the parts. Hopefully this will be my last leak and cold temps on my horizon.

 

[Scamper]

If your schrader valves are good, and you don't find any leaks around the "usual" culprits mentioned above, check the hard line that runs in front of the battery box carefully. In my case, that line had rubbed thru the rubber hose that covers it as it passes thru the hole in the fender behind the headlight as it runs to the drier, and cut a slit in the aluminum line, resulting in a slow leak.I suspect a number of 80 owners will be seeing this over time...

Another way to look for leaks is to pressurize the system and listen for leaks, though this is only likely to locate a pretty significant leak.

 

[zedcruiser]

Thanks TX cruiser and JFZ 80.
Regarding the schraeder valves i had the plate where the service ports are replaced when they replaced the AC compressor. (Part was on back order and had to wait 3 weeks for it). I will recharge the system and get me a cheap sniffer and start sniffing.
Scamper, i shall pull the bumper and the battery this weekend and look at what you have mentioned. This is really starting to piss the crap out of me.

 

[MurderBird45]

I have a leak around the AC drier/ dehydrator. I am replacing the drier, but are there any o-rings I need to get for the connection? There are none listed in the parts catalog I am looking at, so it's unclear whether or not they would come with the drier or the pipe assembly that attaches it to the system. Thanks!

 

[Irish Reiver]

The Denso unit from Rockauto comes with the O-rings. Last time I changed one I also used some Nylog sealer to lube and help with the seal.