80 Serie Hub Centric or Lug Centric

[-Spike-]

OK, wife's been home for a few hours, and requested that I fix her shakey door mirror. So I finally got off my fat ass and did something today.

Fortunately I have a few spare spindle/hub assy's, because my el-cheapo mechanical caliper won't fit on an assembled hub with the flange. Pulled the flange off one and got the measurement. Then I had to play with a draftsman's compass in cunjuction with the caliper to get a measurement of the wheel hub openings, as the caliper wouldn't fit in the wheel.

So, on to the numbers:

Hub at shoulder next to wheel mounting surface- 4.171"
Early conical-type lug nut wheel center opening- 4.231"
Later flat-washered lug nut wheel opening- 4.185"

I was suprised to find a difference in the wheels. I honestly thought Toyota simply changed lug nut types. The wheels look damn near identicle cosmetically. The fact that there's only 6 thousanths of an inch (.1524 mm) difference between the hub and later wheel opening measurement tends to substantiate the claims that it is hub-centric.

I was wrong. I bow to those whose faith never waivered.

-Spike

 

[Trunk Monkey]

All I know is that new OEM wheels are hub centric and most have conical seats....

On the new Tundra the OEM steel wheels are lug centric, the OEM alloys are hub centric (might be vice versa, but they're different).

I bow to those whose faith never waivered.

 

[dfmorse]

Logic dictates that wheels be hub centric - no other consideration is viable ...

 

[Bear80]

Per the TSB:

 

[Trunk Monkey]

On your TSB, the centering cone goes through the hub opening in the wheel. The flange plate presses the wheel further onto the centering cone. It has nothing to do with the lug holes. The studs on the flange plate just pass through the lug holes, they don't hold the weight of the wheel or locate it for centering.

On another note, the damn lug nuts DO NOT determine the centricity of the wheels.

Then again I'd ask you, why do people with 95+ trucks, who get aftermarket, lug centric wheels (which are easier to mass produce so you don't have to have many different mm sized center holes to match the various hub diameters of different manufacturers) have to get new, cone shaped lug nuts? If the shape didn't matter then they should be able to use their washer style nuts. And you can't. I had a complete set of American Racing Baja rims for my truck with street tires and I have a complete set of cone shaped lug nuts that I had to use with those rims. If I tried to use the washer style from the OEM wheels the wheel would not seat.

And it is worth discussing. If you buy OEM wheels from someone, you need to make sure you're getting either the correct year or getting the correct lug nuts included in the deal. If you borrow a spare from someone on the trail and they have the different wheel, you need to use the correct nuts.

 

[on the rocks]

lug or hub???

For what it's worth my 97 OEM rims had the hub centric setup. My Joas wheels use lug centric as FZJFilmore states probably due to the fact they can use the rim on other vehicles with the same bolt pattern. There is a difference in the setup and you cannot mix the lugs but you can use either type of rim. Because of the large hub size there are very few rims that will work on the 80 , newer Nissan and older Chevy rims are a couple of the few. I have found a company that will bore the center hole or the Chevy wheels to fit the hub of the 80 for $40 per rim, which will allow you to use their rim since they are set up for lug centric and open the door for many more options. As for saving lug centric lugs for borrowing a rim on the trail it is a good idea but the chances of someone having a rim that will fit over the hub is very slim to none unless your wheeling with other 80's that have converted with an aftermarket rim. Just my .02

 

[cpg]

On your TSB, the centering cone goes through the hub opening in the wheel. The flange plate presses the wheel further onto the centering cone. It has nothing to do with the lug holes. The studs on the flange plate just pass through the lug holes, they don't hold the weight of the wheel or locate it for centering.



Then again I'd ask you, why do people with 95+ trucks, who get aftermarket, lug centric wheels (which are easier to mass produce so you don't have to have many different mm sized center holes to match the various hub diameters of different manufacturers) have to get new, cone shaped lug nuts? If the shape didn't matter then they should be able to use their washer style nuts. And you can't. I had a complete set of American Racing Baja rims for my truck with street tires and I have a complete set of cone shaped lug nuts that I had to use with those rims. If I tried to use the washer style from the OEM wheels the wheel would not seat.

And it is worth discussing. If you buy OEM wheels from someone, you need to make sure you're getting either the correct year or getting the correct lug nuts included in the deal. If you borrow a spare from someone on the trail and they have the different wheel, you need to use the correct nuts.

The lug nut can also locate off a precision od pilot, the wheel would have to have a matching precision id bore. It does not have to locate taper to taper.

 

[johns94cruiser]

So, I have a 94, which I assume is lug-centric. I am looking at all-pro spacers that are hub centric(used). Will they work on my truck?

I am guessing yes.

 

[KimoSabe]

So, I have a 94, which I assume is lug-centric. I am looking at all-pro spacers that are hub centric(used). Will they work on my truck?

I am guessing yes.

That's Right