$80/liter transfer case oil

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I just changed all the fluids in my 200. Mobil1 Delvac 75w-90 went in both differentials and the transfer case. Previously I was running regular Mobil 1, but found the Delvac line more economical with similar specs. I'll let you guys sweat about the $80L transfer case fluid...
What year is your 200?
 
This discussion is one reason I haven’t changed my transfer Case fluid with 40,000 miles on my 2015. I’ve changed the front and rear differential fluid no big deal and when I looked at it, it was like New!!! Looking so I’m gonna go with Lexus recommendation on the transfer case fluid exchange. since mine is a daily driver, I’d rather stay with the OEM fluid from the factory then put something in that is not recommended! Based on my driving conditions Lexus doesn’t recommend that I ever change the transfer case fluid. But I’ve had a change it that’s why I was saying more like a 90,000 mile change for me. Thoughts recommendations
 
It’s a 2009. If you think that Toyota radically redesigned the transfer case from 2009>2010, when there were minimal updates in that MY, I have a bridge to sell...This issue is simple. Toyota is recommending lighter weight fluids for fuel economy and extending drain intervals to reduce the operating costs on paper. Land Cruisers don’t need unicorn tears to run.
 
Per parts diagrams up to 10/09 build transfer cases have a syncro that appears to act on low-range, while the later ones don't. I wasn't willing to give it more than 3 minutes to look for other differences.
 
It’s a 2009. If you think that Toyota radically redesigned the transfer case from 2009>2010, when there were minimal updates in that MY, I have a bridge to sell...This issue is simple. Toyota is recommending lighter weight fluids for fuel economy and extending drain intervals to reduce the operating costs on paper. Land Cruisers don’t need unicorn tears to run.
Sounds like you made the right decision as that’s what’s recommended for your MY.
 
Per parts diagrams up to 10/09 build transfer cases have a syncro that appears to act on low-range, while the later ones don't. I wasn't willing to give it more than 3 minutes to look for other differences.
That’s what I’ve noticed also. While I haven’t taken a 200 transfer case apart yet, I have torn down a 3rd gen Tacoma’s this year which also calls for the transfer case fluid.

I found more brass than any of the older chain driven cases by far. I know GL-5 lubes hate brass which makes me also question using hypoid gear oil in my ‘11.

That and my transfer case never had a problem till I put a GL-5 75-90 oil in it. It would randomly flash “engaging” when going down the highway. Like it was slipping into engagement from speed. Went back to Toyota Transfer case oil, no problems for 40,000 miles.
 
That’s what I’ve noticed also. While I haven’t taken a 200 transfer case apart yet, I have torn down a 3rd gen Tacoma’s this year which also calls for the transfer case fluid.

I found more brass than any of the older chain driven cases by far. I know GL-5 lubes hate brass which makes me also question using hypoid gear oil in my ‘11.

That and my transfer case never had a problem till I put a GL-5 75-90 oil in it. It would randomly flash “engaging” when going down the highway. Like it was slipping into engagement from speed. Went back to Toyota Transfer case oil, no problems for 40,000 miles.

Yellow metal and people having engagement/disengagement issues are exactly why I stick to the expensive stuff.

Well, also the fact that a new case is $2700 from my discount source.
 
Says something that I couldn't resist reading this. It's for the LV fluid which has a different part number than the LF fluid the 200 calls for. Wonder how similar they are? Same thing?

The Redline MT-LV says it's suitable for both applications (Toyota/Lexus transfer case fluid "Genuine Gear Oil LF 75W, and Toyota/Scion Manual Transmission Oil LV), which leads me to believe they must at least be very close.
 
Says something that I couldn't resist reading this. It's for the LV fluid which has a different part number than the LF fluid the 200 calls for. Wonder how similar they are? Same thing?

The Redline MT-LV says it's suitable for both applications (Toyota/Lexus transfer case fluid "Genuine Gear Oil LF 75W, and Toyota/Scion Manual Transmission Oil LV), which leads me to believe they must at least be very close.

Digging up a VOA for the LV fluid would tell us a lot. I don't see one online yet.

After a little research on BITOG I found an index of SDSs for Toyota's lubricants. All in Japanese though. トヨタ アフターサービス | クルマを快適に美しく使いたい方へ | カーケアグッズ | 安全データシート(SDS) | トヨタ自動車WEBサイト

You can download the PDFs and translate to english. LF and LV are both on there. I don't see a lot of differences other than some of the hazardous additives being different.. and yes I understand what we can learn from a SDS is limited compared to a VOA. But it's something, and maybe someone smarter than me can tell us more?
 
The Redline MT-LV says it's suitable for both applications (Toyota/Lexus transfer case fluid "Genuine Gear Oil LF 75W, and Toyota/Scion Manual Transmission Oil LV), which leads me to believe they must at least be very close.

I wouldn't put it past redline to assume that as long as it hits the viscosity requirements it's good. There is a serious lack of info on this LF stuff and their recommendation *may* be based on some assumptions.

That said, at least it's GL-4 so it shouldn't cause problems with yellow metal parts within the unit.
 
I am getting confusing information from dealers on what fluid goes in the 2010 transfer case (getting ready to change it). 2 dealers have looked up based on vin and one says it is 75w90 and the other says it is 75w. The build date for the car is 5/10. Based on reading this thread it is clear there was a change sometime in 2010. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Having spent waaay too many hours looking into this myself... My recommendation, if you can find the Toyota/Lexus transfer case Genuine Gear Oil LF 75W, be safe, pay the $$$$$ and go with it. If you can’t swallow that bitter pill get the Ravenol 75W or Redline MT-LV. Neither of them are going to destroy your transfer case and both are probably better than the 75W-90 GL-5 differential fluid most of the dealers are putting in there.

UPDATE: I ended up using Redline MT-LV in my transfer case and I'm very happy with it. Not a single "blinking center diff light of death" since, and the center diff locks and unlocks almost immediately (used to take 3-7 seconds).
 
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I am getting confusing information from dealers on what fluid goes in the 2010 transfer case (getting ready to change it). 2 dealers have looked up based on vin and one says it is 75w90 and the other says it is 75w. The build date for the car is 5/10. Based on reading this thread it is clear there was a change sometime in 2010. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.

I called four Lexus dealerships and two Toyota dealerships. None of them used the Toyota 75w. I ordered two cans ($58 a can) of it and had independent mechanic change it.
 
A possible alternative... http://www.triaxlubricants.com/content/pdf/TRIAX SYNCRO XT Syncromesh - PDS.pdf

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I just drained and filled with the Ravenol 75W. I'll let you know if I have any issues with it.

That being said, it is not every day that I'm surprised by the ingenuity of some engineers. I was very frustrated with the Ravenol bottle because I couldn't get the lid to open for the life of me. Thought I was going to have to cut the top off. However, before getting out the box knife, I put on my reading glasses and looked at the little images on top of the lid explaining how to open. You pull up on two small loops of plastic and turn. You then pull up and spout about 1 inch in diameter pulls out about 2 inches. You then unscrew the lid some more with the loops and pull a flexible tube out of the spout that is about 4 inches long. Pop the top off, push the tub in the filler hole and squeeze. No messing with a pump or any kind to get all of the fluid in. VERY pleasantly surprised.

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FWIW I've been running 75W Ravenol for the last 9k miles. Interestingly no new flashing CDL instances yet. We'll see if any pop up this winter, but despite my belief that the fluid isn't the reason some of us occasionally get the flashing CDL light when cold it does seem like fresh fluid mitigates the issue.

I thought I'd update, since my last post was November. I'm at 11k since putting in Ravenol 75W in the transfer case. It's mid-April and still no flashing CDLs. I think I have engaged the CDL maybe once this winter (it's all city streets here and not much snow this winter). It's anecdotal, for sure, but I definitely did have the flashing light with both 75W LF as well as 75W-90 in the transfer case previously, so mildly promising. Or maybe there was just some crud in the transfer case that flushed out in the last drain-and-fill? Who knows. I'll report back with another anecodotal update in the future.
 
Is the Mobile-1 75w90 synthetic which is rated GL-5 fine to use?

I'm about to change mine; both differentials and transfer case.

It looks like it's going to be about 8 quarts and it cost about $67 for 8 quarts. ($100 for a case of 12).
 
This thread is on its 7th page. If the question hasn’t been answered already I don’t think it will be.
 
If not in this thread, it's somewhere on the other.

200 Series changed transfer case lube from 75W-90 to 75W...iirc in 2010, but in any event my '13 LC wants 75W. Other than Toyota, a company called Ravenol has a 75W product labeled to meet Toyota's specs. Around $40 shipped for 2 qt. Anecdotal posts noting that it fixes issues with getting into 4 LO when you don't want it to go away.
 
Have 2009. Rocking Amsoil 75W-90 in the transfer case, and Amsoil 75W-140 in the diffs (aftermarket 4.88 gears). It works fine. Just put it in the transfer case a few weeks ago, and Covid keeping the miles way down, but actuator is working fine. It did before too (after some initial convincing), so that doesn't say much. Don't know what was in the transfer case prior.

Had Amsoil 75W-90 in the diffs for a 10k miles before doing the gears, thought it was quieter, but one would expect that with fresh oil.

I can say the lube used for the gear break-in was definitely not my favorite. Very loud and didn't feel crisp.
 
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