$80/liter transfer case oil

[Rednexus]

I find it interesting too, but then this stuff isn't being recommended for Hypoid gear sets, it's only supposed to be used in very specific applications within the toyota powertrain world. I can understand that meaning the GL rating isn't very important.

That's certainly plausible given the GL-5 spec in older trucks and SUVs with similar T-cases. Toyota does not appear to have switched to a GL-4 spec (although correct me if I'm wrong), but instead dropped the GL-spec altogether. It's plausible that the vagueness is intentional so folks end up having to use the 75W fluid. But, that may be due to CAFE regulations more than Toyota trying to make a few more dollar selling the liquid gold.

 

[bloc]

That's certainly plausible given the GL-5 spec in older trucks and SUVs with similar T-cases. Toyota does not appear to have switched to a GL-4 spec (although correct me if I'm wrong), but instead dropped the GL-spec altogether. It's plausible that the vagueness is intentional so folks end up having to use the 75W fluid. But, that may be due to CAFE regulations more than Toyota trying to make a few more dollar selling the liquid gold.

Until a Toyota engineer steps in we won’t know for sure.

It has always been speculation based on Toyota’s fluid recommendation changing in the middle of a vehicle generation, which also happened to coincide with a part number change for the transfer case itself.

The cost of running something explicitly approved for the Tcase is inconsequential compared to replacing the transfer case if the GL5 additives do end up doing damage. As it is the synchro argument was always a little flimsy to me because a synchro doesn’t really do anything when shifting while stationary, as most of us do. But then we don’t know if that’s the extent of the yellow metals in there.. if any at all.

Even at unicorn tear prices the cost per mile was low.. it just felt stupid to pay that much for gear oil. Fortunately ravenol and others gave us options to protect the case while not spending ridiculous money on fluid.. and now even Toyota has too.

 

[Sajan]

Got it. It's quite interesting that the bottle omits any kind of GL- label. Maybe it doesn't meet either spec? Every other bottle of gear oil I've seen has had GL-4 or GL-5 on it.

Toyota being Toyota...

Went from 75W-90 GL-5 to 75W GL-Unknown.. (supposedly GL-4)
either because it doesn't matter...or they can't say because of regulations (annoying..)

 

[Rednexus]

Even at unicorn tear prices the cost per mile was low.. it just felt stupid to pay that much for gear oil. Fortunately ravenol and others gave us options to protect the case while not spending ridiculous money on fluid.. and now even Toyota has too.

The only OE Toyota fluids I use in either of my Toyotas is the pink SLL coolant. It's basically the same price as an aftermarket coolant and and I'm adverse to whatever chemical reactions may occur a OE/aftermarket coolant mixture. Everything else gets aftermarket fluids that are changed often.

OE Toyota parts pricing in general seems to be all over the place. Example - I recently bought new rear shocks and a rear bumper cover (long story on that) for my wife's Highlander from a local dealer. The shocks were $46/each (cheaper than getting KYBs on Rock Auto) and the bumper cover was only $165. I was expecting the bumper to be $500+ as it's a huge piece of plastic. Both of those purchases cost less than 6 quarts of 75W gear oil .

 

[Sajan]

The only OE Toyota fluids I use in either of my Toyotas is the pink SLL coolant. It's basically the same price as an aftermarket coolant and and I'm adverse to whatever chemical reactions may occur a OE/aftermarket coolant mixture. Everything else gets aftermarket fluids that are changed often.

OE Toyota parts pricing in general seems to be all over the place. Example - I recently bought new rear shocks and a rear bumper cover (long story on that) for my wife's Highlander from a local dealer. The shocks were $46/each (cheaper than getting KYBs on Rock Auto) and the bumper cover was only $165. I was expecting the bumper to be $500+ as it's a huge piece of plastic. Both of those purchases cost less than 6 quarts of 75W gear oil .

I would add transmission fluid to the Toyota only fluid..at least from my reading, the 8 speed speed seems to sensitive to fluid brand.

 

[Supra Turbo]

I personally try and thus far have only used Toyota fluids in my Land Cruiser. Even at $100 per bottle that I paid for TC fluid, it is nothing over 40,000 miles in grand theme of things.. even if the aftermarket fluids do not cause any concerns for reliability.

To me, that is like tires - if the vehicle I am looking to buy has mismatched, older or cheaper brand tires, it makes me question where else did the PO skip out, including on maintenance. The bumpers condition I can see, but the wear on TC I cannot.

 

[Rednexus]

I personally try and thus far have only used Toyota fluids in my Land Cruiser. Even at $100 per bottle that I paid for TC fluid, it is nothing over 40,000 miles in grand theme of things.. even if the aftermarket fluids do not cause any concerns for reliability.

To me, that is like tires - if the vehicle I am looking to buy has mismatched, older or cheaper brand tires, it makes me question where else did the PO skip out, including on maintenance. The bumpers condition I can see, but the wear on TC I cannot.

I'd consider the pricier fluids if I changed them less often. I personally change the diffs yearly (due to deep water crossings - the fluid nearly always shows some evidence of water contamination) and TC bi-yearly (I was doing yearly on it, but the fluid came out pretty clean without signs of water). All 15 quarts in the transmission get done every 3 years/~40K, and the coolant gets done every 50K. That would get expensive using Toyota fluids .

IMO T-cases and diffs can have a high risk of contamination as they are low on the rig (water exposure), have no filtering other than a magnet, and are hard to check the level on. So I'm a big proponent of changing them frequently, as no fluid will protect well if it's mixed with water or debris.

 

[Drift Monkey]

The only OE Toyota fluids I use in either of my Toyotas is the pink SLL coolant. It's basically the same price as an aftermarket coolant and and I'm adverse to whatever chemical reactions may occur a OE/aftermarket coolant mixture. Everything else gets aftermarket fluids that are changed often.

OE Toyota parts pricing in general seems to be all over the place. Example - I recently bought new rear shocks and a rear bumper cover (long story on that) for my wife's Highlander from a local dealer. The shocks were $46/each (cheaper than getting KYBs on Rock Auto) and the bumper cover was only $165. I was expecting the bumper to be $500+ as it's a huge piece of plastic. Both of those purchases cost less than 6 quarts of 75W gear oil .

I’m not even that averse to the aftermarket pink coolants for the most part - times have changed and companies have caught on to the “speciality” coolants for sure. That being said I usually do pick up SLL.

I will say I am pretty anti-WS. There’s nothing especially redeeming about it and there are several superior, readily available options to it at this point.

 

[Adrenaline6]

I would add transmission fluid to the Toyota only fluid..at least from my reading, the 8 speed speed seems to sensitive to fluid brand.

The WS fluid isn't even synthetic. If you change fluid on a good schedule, not really a problem using factory WS, but regardless, a WS rated synthetic would be superior as far as longevity and abuse.

 

[Supra Turbo]

I'd consider the pricier fluids if I changed them less often. I personally change the diffs yearly (due to deep water crossings - the fluid nearly always shows some evidence of water contamination) and TC bi-yearly (I was doing yearly on it, but the fluid came out pretty clean without signs of water). All 15 quarts in the transmission get done every 3 years/~40K, and the coolant gets done every 50K. That would get expensive using Toyota fluids .

IMO T-cases and diffs can have a high risk of contamination as they are low on the rig (water exposure), have no filtering other than a magnet, and are hard to check the level on. So I'm a big proponent of changing them frequently, as no fluid will protect well if it's mixed with water or debris.

Makes sense for your use case. I try to not even drive my Land Cruiser if its raining And follow the maintenance schedule mostly by timing since I don't put too many miles on the LC (3-5k a year avg).

 

[Rednexus]

I will say I am pretty anti-WS. There’s nothing especially redeeming about it and there are several superior, readily available options to it at this point.

I'm on my 2nd fill of heretical Valvoline MaxLife ATF . Full-synthetic and $23 a gallon at my local home improvement big box store.

I'm also considering putting it in the eCVT and rear e-diff of our Highlander Hybrid (which also calls for Toyota WS) but I might think about that a bit more as I don't 100% understand how they operate and if they are sensitive to fluid types.

 

[Drift Monkey]

I'm on my 2nd fill of heretical Valvoline MaxLife ATF . Full-synthetic and $23 a gallon at my local home improvement big box store.

I'm also considering putting it in the eCVT and rear e-diff of our Highlander Hybrid (which also calls for Toyota WS) but I might think about that a bit more as I don't 100% understand how they operate and if they are sensitive to fluid types.

The heretical red bottle fluid has been in all my vehicles for some time now as well! I actually just fluid exchanged a new (to me) heretical fluid on my 200 - Valvoline Extended Protection.

I’ve heard of people using the CVT flavored Valvoline in there as well as plain old Maxlife. I’m not sure you can go wrong but I’d probably dig over on BITOG for some more research for your peace of mind.

 

[gasman4u]

I'm on my 2nd fill of heretical Valvoline MaxLife ATF . Full-synthetic and $23 a gallon at my local home improvement big box store.

I'm also considering putting it in the eCVT and rear e-diff of our Highlander Hybrid (which also calls for Toyota WS) but I might think about that a bit more as I don't 100% understand how they operate and if they are sensitive to fluid types.

The heretical red bottle fluid has been in all my vehicles for some time now as well! I actually just fluid exchanged a new (to me) heretical fluid on my 200 - Valvoline Extended Protection.

View attachment 4097658

I’ve heard of people using the CVT flavored Valvoline in there as well as plain old Maxlife. I’m not sure you can go wrong but I’d probably dig over on BITOG for some more research for your peace of mind.

@Supra Turbo I can see your point for some stuff (tires, parts) being OEM supremacy. Fluids however have better options available. Especially when factoring in cost. I’ll be a SLLC fanboi, however the trans/engine/diff/tcase get HPL vs rebadged Mobil, etc.

 

[Rednexus]

The heretical red bottle fluid has been in all my vehicles for some time now as well! I actually just fluid exchanged a new (to me) heretical fluid on my 200 - Valvoline Extended Protection.

I’ve heard of people using the CVT flavored Valvoline in there as well as plain old Maxlife. I’m not sure you can go wrong but I’d probably dig over on BITOG for some more research for your peace of mind.

I did not know that transmission fluid existed! My GX is not up for trans fluid again until ~2027, but I may give it a shot next time.

FWIW, I switched my engine oil to Valvoline Restore & Protect 5W30 a few weeks ago. I had been running Mobil 1 HM for the past 5 years of ownership. We'll see if the hype is real.

 

[Supra Turbo]

Fluids however have better options available.

I'm all ears if there's factual data to support this

 

[bloc]

OE Toyota parts pricing in general seems to be all over the place. Example - I recently bought new rear shocks and a rear bumper cover (long story on that) for my wife's Highlander from a local dealer. The shocks were $46/each (cheaper than getting KYBs on Rock Auto) and the bumper cover was only $165. I was expecting the bumper to be $500+ as it's a huge piece of plastic. Both of those purchases cost less than 6 quarts of 75W gear oil .

No argument from me on that.

 

[Drift Monkey]

I did not know that transmission fluid existed! My GX is not up for trans fluid again until ~2027, but I may give it a shot next time.

FWIW, I switched my engine oil to Valvoline Restore & Protect 5W30 a few weeks ago. I had been running Mobil 1 HM for the past 5 years of ownership. We'll see if the hype is real.

I honestly might just start dumping my pan every 15k miles and refilling whatever comes out. So far so good with it though, I think it’s just a slightly thinner viscosity maxlife with maybe a slightly newer additive pack.

Are you me? I’m also on R&P 5W-30 as well - my first go on the 200. I don’t think I even need it but what the hell. All my major fluids are now Valvoline outside of the transfer case and coolant at this point.

 

[Drift Monkey]

I'm all ears if there's factual data to support this

Do you also run conventional oil in your engines? Do you run the OEM motor oil sold by Toyota as well?

 

[gasman4u]

I'm all ears if there's factual data to support this

There’s another forum for that - Bitog. You’ll come away with more minutiae than you ever thought possible regarding oils.

Tbf, there is established dogma here regarding Toyota branded fluids. That’s fine for the OE fluid zealots. The OEM badged Mobil won’t hurt anything aside from your wallet and maybe pride when your eyes are opened. It’s also not something I’m going to jump into as I’d rather dump whatever delta I’m going to save into the next 25% off sale, gas, setting alight in the market, etc.

 

[Rednexus]

I honestly might just start dumping my pan every 15k miles and refilling whatever comes out. So far so good with it though, I think it’s just a slightly thinner viscosity maxlife with maybe a slightly newer additive pack.

Are you me? I’m also on R&P 5W-30 as well - my first go on the 200. I don’t think I even need it but what the hell. All my major fluids are now Valvoline outside of the transfer case and coolant at this point.

I ran a compression test late last year (why not when the plugs were out). It was just barely out of the FSM spec with 200K on the motor. Perhaps I'll run another one after a few changes of R&P and see if it improves any .

Our Highlander still gets M1 (as M1 is all I can find locally in the 0W16) and my Yanmar diesel-powered tractor gets Delvac ESP HDEO 5W40. But, Valvoline is certainly innovating a lot more than the other "big" lubricant companies and bringing lots of new products to the market.