$80/liter transfer case oil

[gasman4u]

I ran a compression test late last year (why not when the plugs were out). It was just barely out of the FSM spec with 200K on the motor. Perhaps I'll run another one after a few changes of R&P and see if it improves any .

Our Highlander still gets M1 (as M1 is all I can find locally in the 0W16) and my Yanmar diesel-powered tractor gets Delvac ESP HDEO 5W40. But, Valvoline is certainly innovating a lot more than the other "big" lubricant companies and bringing lots of new products to the market.

R&P is quite impressive for freeing up stuck rings and cleaning!

 

[Supra Turbo]

Do you also run conventional oil in your engines? Do you run the OEM motor oil sold by Toyota as well?

That depends on the country I am in - but yes, I do. I often encounter fake oils, primarily Mobil 1.

There’s another forum for that - Bitog. You’ll come away with more minutiae than you ever thought possible regarding oils.

Tbf, there is established dogma here regarding Toyota branded fluids. That’s fine for the OE fluid zealots. The OEM badged Mobil won’t hurt anything aside from your wallet and maybe pride when your eyes are opened. It’s also not something I’m going to jump into as I’d rather dump whatever delta I’m going to save into the next 25% off sale, gas, setting alight in the market, etc.

To me, it has nothing to do with being an OE fluid zealot, it is simply hope that I am less likely to get scammed with a fake. If we are talking hurt pride and wallet..



But if there are cheaper, proven alternatives to Toyota oils on Bigot forum, I will certainly do some investigating.

 

[Rednexus]

To me, it has nothing to do with being an OE fluid zealot, it is simply hope that I am less likely to get scammed with a fake. If we are talking hurt pride and wallet..

But if there are cheaper, proven alternatives to Toyota oils on Bigot forum, I will certainly do some investigating.

If you get fluids though proper channels, your chance of getting a fake is very low. Fluids I buy are from the dealer or local retailers (auto parts, big box, and farm stores). If I do need to order something, it's directly from the manufacturer or a large vendor like Summit Racing. They have secure supply chains and your chance of getting a fake is essentially zero.

If you aren't in the US or don't have access to US vendors, I can see fake oils being a bigger problem.

 

[Supra Turbo]

If you get fluids though proper channels, your chance of getting a fake is very low. Fluids I buy are from the dealer or local retailers (auto parts, big box, and farm stores). If I do need to order something, it's directly from the manufacturer or a large vendor like Summit Racing. They have secure supply chains and your chance of getting a fake is essentially zero.

If you aren't in the US or don't have access to US vendors, I can see fake oils being a bigger problem.

Well yes, like I said before.. depending on the country. Its a lot easier to do that in US.

 

[gasman4u]

Well yes, like I said before.. depending on the country. Its a lot easier to do that in US.

Follow Clarkson’s lead. Those watches look legit!

I don’t see how you could get counterfeit HPL or Amsoil due to typically ordering direct from the manufacturer. Nothing’s impossible, but I can say it’s similar risk profile to being struck by lightening.

But if there are cheaper, proven alternatives to Toyota oils on Bigot forum, I will certainly do some investigating.

Despite being hilarious, that’s yet another forum. To each, his own I suppose.

 

[Supra Turbo]

Follow Clarkson’s lead. Those watches look legit!

I don’t see how you could get counterfeit HPL or Amsoil due to typically ordering direct from the manufacturer. Nothing’s impossible, but I can say it’s similar risk profile to being struck by lightening.

Despite being hilarious, that’s yet another forum. To each, his own I suppose.

Ha they look as legit as some of the fake oils.. on the surface.

Fake versions are actually very common in some parts of the world, and some manufacturers will not ship everywhere.

Lol I legitimately did not notice I typed that.

 

[gasman4u]

Ha they look as legit as some of the fake oils.. on the surface.

Fake versions are actually very common in some parts of the world, and some manufacturers will not ship everywhere.

Lol I legitimately did not notice I typed that.

I’m pretty sure HPL and amsoil would ship worldwide….assuming you’d pay for it. I can’t confrm this statement other than wanting their product to gain market share and their business to turn a profit. I’m a smooth brained sImPUltUN who’s spending too much time on the bigot forum though.

I have seen the knock off prevalence in Asia and Africa especially and can see your point about worrying if it’s counterfeit. I can’t help there.

 

[Supra Turbo]

I’m pretty sure HPL and amsoil would ship worldwide….assuming you’d pay for it. I can’t confrm this statement other than wanting their product to gain market share and their business to turn a profit. I’m a smooth brained sImPUltUN who’s spending too much time on the bigot forum though.

I have seen the knock off prevalence in Asia and Africa especially and can see your point about worrying if it’s counterfeit. I can’t help there.

I do not know about HPL, but Amsoil will not ship to some countries. And going through backroutes is less economical.

I was not going to state the obvious regarding prevalence of fakes, but yes I was talking about Asia and Africa.

 

[Sajan]

invoice from previous owner 13,000 miles ago says 80w90 is what the shop used.
Uhh…am I …screwed lol
Let me drain it asap.

 

[bloc]

Uhh…am I …screwed lol

I really doubt it. My gut is that it's not top of the priority list, and over the total number of these built I'm sure a significant portion are getting the "wrong" fluid. But we almost never hear about t-case failures at all, and even those usually involve bearings or something the fluid shouldn't harm.

That doesn't mean I'm gonna put non-approved fluid into my transfer case. But I genuinely think if you get the right stuff in there you'll be fine in the long run.

 

[Rednexus]

invoice from previous owner 13,000 miles ago says 80w90 is what the shop used.
Uhh…am I …screwed lol
Let me drain it asap.

80W90 is a conventional fluid and may or may not have a LS additive in it. Since it's conventional, it's probably already a GL-4. I'd personally run it and not worry about it - you just have a slightly thicker fluid than the 75W so you'll have minimally worse fuel economy.

I know this is not a transfer case, but below is a photo of my rear differential at 18 years and 190K miles. The last 5 years/50K of it's life it was lubricated with Valvoline 80W90 conventional, LSD-free GL-4 in it, changed yearly. This little 8" diff was used for towing our camper thousands of miles and several other trailers over 5,000 pounds, plus quite a bit of wheeling. I have no idea what the POs before more ran in it, but the diff had essentially zero wear.

 

[Sajan]

80W90 is a conventional fluid and may or may not have a LS additive in it. Since it's conventional, it's probably already a GL-4. I'd personally run it and not worry about it - you just have a slightly thicker fluid than the 75W so you'll have minimally worse fuel economy.

I know this is not a transfer case, but below is a photo of my rear differential at 18 years and 190K miles. The last 5 years/50K of its life it was lubricated with Valvoline 80W90 conventional, LSD-free GL-4 in it, changed yearly. This little 8" diff was used for towing our camper thousands of miles and several other trailers over 5,000 pounds, plus quite a bit of wheeling. I have no idea what the POs before more ran in it, but the diff had essentially zero wear.
View attachment 4099903

This is what they used. looks like GL-5

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/masterpro-chemicals/masterpro-gear-oil-80w-90-1-quart/mp03/80036

 

[Rednexus]

This is what they used. looks like GL-5

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/masterpro-chemicals/masterpro-gear-oil-80w-90-1-quart/mp03/80036

It says "top off" of LSDs, which indicates it probably lacks a LSD additive. If it were my rig, I'd run it until your next scheduled change and not worry about it.

 

[manofthewoods]

It says "top off" of LSDs, which indicates it probably lacks a LSD additive. If it were my rig, I'd run it until your next scheduled change and not worry about it.

Agree with the above. Of the things to worry about; I'd put this somewhere around "what percentage of nitrogen is in my tires?"

 

[Julian73]

80W90 is a conventional fluid and may or may not have a LS additive in it. Since it's conventional, it's probably already a GL-4. I'd personally run it and not worry about it - you just have a slightly thicker fluid than the 75W so you'll have minimally worse fuel economy.

I know this is not a transfer case, but below is a photo of my rear differential at 18 years and 190K miles. The last 5 years/50K of it's life it was lubricated with Valvoline 80W90 conventional, LSD-free GL-4 in it, changed yearly. This little 8" diff was used for towing our camper thousands of miles and several other trailers over 5,000 pounds, plus quite a bit of wheeling. I have no idea what the POs before more ran in it, but the diff had essentially zero wear.
View attachment 4099903

Not sure why you would be using a GL4 in a differential, but it seems tone working for you. GL4's are typically for manual transmissions that have by nature fairly low contact stresses, this lets the oils do without the EP additives such sulfur and phosphorus that attack the brass/copper based materials such as used in synchromeshes of manual transmissions. The later generation 200's due have a type of synchro ring in the transfer case along with a torsion differential .. giving the change by Toyota from a 75W-85 GL5 to the liquid gold LF 75W

 

[Julian73]

Tried to buy Transfer case oil at the dealership today discovered the stuff in the can was discontinued. Found this thread while. At the parts counter he had none of the new stuff in stock (but could get it next day). He went back to the service guys and asked what they are using and came back with this:
View attachment 4097120
Which is not the 00279-DGOLF-01 75W stuff referenced above in this thread. I think all this means is that the service guys just use what they have. I’ll either order the 00279-DGOLF-01 or just change to Ravenol or Redline or something.

LT (Limited Torque) gear oils contain EP (extreme pressure) additives and are labeled GL-5
LX (Limited Slip/Extra) gear oils are also EP (GL5) but with friction modifiers for LSD's (a Torsen LS as used in the LC200 does not need the LSD friction modifiers as they don't use clutch plates).
LV Low Viscosity) gear oils are thinner without the EP additives and are intended for manual transmissions which use synchromesh. The syncros are typically "yellow" metals such as copper, brass which do not do well with the GL-5/EP additives of sulfur and phosphorus. A GL-5 oil can not be used in a GL4 spec'd gear box while a GL-4 may not provide enough extreme pressure additives to survive the application. Note some oils are now GL-4/GL-5 compatible using non corrosive EP additives.
LF (Low Friction) is especially made for transfer cases, offering some benefits of LT and LV offering a high contact pressure resistance but without corrosive additives. the Toyota formula must not meet the GL-4 or GL-5 specs enough to gain the labeling.

At least Toyota has a new tariff free source of the LF called 00279-DGOLF made by ENEOS USA and is sold for under $50 a bottle.

 

[Corbet]

What is the current Toyota part number you guys are using for the unicorn tears? I've seen both 00279-DGOLF and 00279-DGOLF-01. (slight difference in product description) My LC-250 is up for its 30K service and not many of us are there already in the other forum. I know the price sucks but for only 2 quarts I'll grin and bear it. My local dealer pulled my VIN this morning and also tried to give me the standard GL-5 75W-85 which does not line up with my owners manual.

 

[Julian73]

00279-DGOLF & 00279-DGOLF-01 seem to pull up the same thing at some dealers. The -01 is packaged as single liter bottle. I just paid $47.76 from McGrath Elmhurst Toyota. The P/N without the -01 probably comes out of a bulk box of 4 or 6 1-liter bottles.

 

[Rednexus]

Not sure why you would be using a GL4 in a differential, but it seems tone working for you. GL4's are typically for manual transmissions that have by nature fairly low contact stresses, this lets the oils do without the EP additives such sulfur and phosphorus that attack the brass/copper based materials such as used in synchromeshes of manual transmissions. The later generation 200's due have a type of synchro ring in the transfer case along with a torsion differential .. giving the change by Toyota from a 75W-85 GL5 to the liquid gold LF 75W

I read the Valvoline 80W90 spec wrong. Upon re-examination, it GL-4 for non-synchronized transmissions and GL-5 for everything else (kind of a odd spec instead of just calling it GL-5....). Regardless, I change my gear oil yearly (per an earlier post) due to frequent stream crossings that often completely submerge my diff. So, cheap gear oil is the name of the game. Even with a functioning rear vent, the rapid cooling of the diff/housing can create a vacuum inside the diff and pull water in past the axle seals. The fluid always some milkshake-colored swirls in it, indicating it is at least somewhat water contaminated.

My GX470 is full-time AWD and also has a Torsen center diff with an electronically-actuated center differential lock and a lever-actuated low-high shift function. I am not sure if it has any brass in it or not, but those T-cases rarely if ever give people problems and they are factory spec'd with GL-5, and they have been on the road since late 2002. I've ran conventional fluid in it before and that the TC makes a very slight amount of noise when it's cold with conventional. It makes zero noise with the Delvac GL-5 75W90 in it, so IMO it is lubricating a bit better than a conventional fluid.

 

[Corbet]

00279-DGOLF & 00279-DGOLF-01 seem to pull up the same thing at some dealers. The -01 is packaged as single liter bottle. I just paid $47.76 from McGrath Elmhurst Toyota. The P/N without the -01 probably comes out of a bulk box of 4 or 6 1-liter bottles.

This is what has me a little "off" if you look at the screen shot below. The description is slightly different on those two part numbers. "Ltr" verse "Gl". I agree its probably something to do with simple packaging. It would just be a shame to get the tears of a Pegasus when I need Unicorn.