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Looking at a 96 with 245k mi, owned by a high school age kid with an attentive dad the last 5y, looks like some things have just been repaired when they broke (brake line leak, power steering leak, etc). I come before this esteemed group with 2 broad questions -

- what should have timed out/been repaired or will soon break on a 245k truck?

-repairing said items - will this be a 350k mi plus truck? Ie at what mileage point do the various attachments, connections and flex of metal just make it a bucket of loose bolts?

any other comments or suggestions, productive or otherwise, welcome

thanks

56
 
Miles isn’t always a great indication, far too many other variables.
Basically the only thing that will kill these trucks is rust. Providing you keep rust under control and are prepared to spend the money and effort they’ll keep running forever.

my advice is to buy the “best” truck with as little rust as possible... buying a “cheap” cruiser and then spending a fortune and years of your life to fix it up is a false economy.
 
I think the current condition and quality of recent maintenance matters the most.

I just bought a 93,000 mile '95. I would wager the only thing that the reduced miles *may* have bought me is I probably won't be shopping for a new short block in the near future but who really knows.

Otherwise, due to age, I still have to replace parts that have not been replaced or re-do work that was done wrong. You and I will still spend a ton of money on the same parts assuming we're trying to get our cars to the same level of reliability. Low miles may not make a difference for mechanical worn-out parts.

If you're worried about resale value, then 350K miles will likely have more an impact in the future.

Basically the only thing that will kill these trucks is rust. Providing you keep rust under control and are prepared to spend the money and effort they’ll keep running forever.

Agree on rust. Think hard if the paint job or body condition matters. A good quality paint job is really expensive if that type of thing matters to you. If the interior is torn apart, that can be a problem. Replacing seat cushions, leather, and carpet are not uncommon. Replacing a dash and hard to acquire plastic parts is an entirely different challenge for me.
 
The head gasket will likely need replacement if not already done. I’d want documentation that showed specific work done.

I agree that miles driven isn’t the only indication of condition. The more documentation of regular oil changes and maintanence the better. You’ll need to baseline the truck regardless. Tuneup, all rubber hoses and belts, heater control value, etc.

If the truck isn’t a rust bucket and is taken care of, it will last to 350k miles and beyond.
 
Fluids, hoses, belts, grease, front axle service otherwise known as "baseline".....flush the coolant system thoroughly because someone mixed green with the red then drive it till you get the check engine light for p0401. At that point bypass the EGR with a paperclip and plug and wait for intermittent starting to begin. Install Hotstart 30202 and continue on......do the front axle every 60-100k and wait for something random to happen where you will again post here for advice. You should be around 400k miles at that point.

Don't get bitten by the "While I'm in there" bug and these trucks don't get expensive unless you want them to. I learned my lesson on the first one......On number three now.
 
Fluids, hoses, belts, grease, front axle service otherwise known as "baseline".....flush the coolant system thoroughly because someone mixed green with the red then drive it till you get the check engine light for p0401. At that point bypass the EGR with a paperclip and plug and wait for intermittent starting to begin. Install Hotstart 30202 and continue on......do the front axle every 60-100k and wait for something random to happen where you will again post here for advice. You should be around 400k miles at that point.

Don't get bitten by the "While I'm in there" bug and these trucks don't get expensive unless you want them to. I learned my lesson on the first one......On number three now.
Ok you lost me early on I’ll admit on the coolant/paper clip/stumble/hotstart - I’ll do my own research if you direct me, or you can elaborate if you don’t mind, either way is good

I’m eyes wide open esp w rust - dealing w an 89 1st gen 4Runner about that right now. But had a 92 and a 94 80, both white like this one - had been watching this one at a friends house for several weeks and when I saw someone by it yesterday said “ma’am would you sell me your truck?” To which she replied “we are just cleaning it up to sell!” So sometimes things are just meant to be -
 
Mine has in the ballpark of 340k and runs great but goes through a lot of oil (a little leakage, but more from burning oil). I'm thinking I'll do a head gasket soon, not because I suspect it as a failure point, but just to refresh the head, get a good look at the cylinders and replace the valve stem seals.

I feel that it will continue to run reliably as long as I keep up with maintenance. It's pretty much a money pit, but I'm not worried about it dying on me.

245k is basically "average" for a toyota 4x4 of this age. Look at 3rd gen 4runners for sale, same story: the vast majority have 250k+ Only jeep guys are impressed when I tell them how many miles my truck has.
 
I said most of it jokingly but seriously.....

You will find in searching common problems on the truck. All three of mine have had the exact same problems. The worst things that can happen are about half a dozen things in the EGR system dying, intermittent starting problems, cracked gas tanks(which I am actually fixing right this moment) and failures due to lack of all around basic maintenance that is lined out from the factory protocol's. Head gasket pops but is more rare than most admit. None of mine have (Yet...)
 
I said most of it jokingly but seriously.....

You will find in searching common problems on the truck. All three of mine have had the exact same problems. The worst things that can happen are about half a dozen things in the EGR system dying, intermittent starting problems, cracked gas tanks(which I am actually fixing right this moment) and failures due to lack of all around basic maintenance that is lined out from the factory protocol's. Head gasket pops but is more rare than most admit. None of mine have (Yet...)
Many great suggestions, all consistent in the advice, and greatly appreciated.

spoiler alert - I bought it on the spot (after inspecting and driving). New belts/hoses regular oil changes (be it Jiffy Lube but the kid’s heart was in the right place) no rust straight clean frame, rocker panels, floor panels , wheel arches. Some scratches and small dents. 245k paint but no dash cracks. Windshield is cracked though, carpet worn, window motors work, cold air. Green antifreeze, intermittent check engine light, battery won’t hold a charge, start of a good to-do list. Oil clean. New corbeau front seats, arb bumper and winch, OME 2”, Fuel wheels and tires, new rear brakes (calipers, Oreilly brand)
So I calculated head gasket, EGR rework, windshield replacement, possible alternator at worst battery at best for starts and just couldn’t let this one get into someone else’s hands. I asked why he was selling, he got a new job with a 30 mi commute and couldn’t afford the gas. Good kid, I gave him his asking price.
Hoping this plays out well, it will all fix, but feels right and wonderfully familiar
 
Many great suggestions, all consistent in the advice, and greatly appreciated.

spoiler alert - I bought it on the spot (after inspecting and driving). New belts/hoses regular oil changes (be it Jiffy Lube but the kid’s heart was in the right place) no rust straight clean frame, rocker panels, floor panels , wheel arches. Some scratches and small dents. 245k paint but no dash cracks. Windshield is cracked though, carpet worn, window motors work, cold air. Green antifreeze, intermittent check engine light, battery won’t hold a charge, start of a good to-do list. Oil clean. New corbeau front seats, arb bumper and winch, OME 2”, Fuel wheels and tires, new rear brakes (calipers, Oreilly brand)
So I calculated head gasket, EGR rework, windshield replacement, possible alternator at worst battery at best for starts and just couldn’t let this one get into someone else’s hands. I asked why he was selling, he got a new job with a 30 mi commute and couldn’t afford the gas. Good kid, I gave him his asking price.
Hoping this plays out well, it will all fix, but feels right and wonderfully familiar
TIME TO CHANGE MY SIGNATURE!!!!!
 
Congrats!
Thank you - forgot the biggest item - there is a large chunk out of the steering wheel pad

how tough to source an airbag Toyota steering wheel? Can’t be that tough or expensive.
Riiiiight -
 
Thank you - forgot the biggest item - there is a large chunk out of the steering wheel pad

how tough to source an airbag Toyota steering wheel? Can’t be that tough or expensive.
Riiiiight -
Probably not too easy there pumpkin cheeks. May want to check the part-out section.
 
Thank you - forgot the biggest item - there is a large chunk out of the steering wheel pad

how tough to source an airbag Toyota steering wheel? Can’t be that tough or expensive.
Riiiiight -

Just throw a nice steering wheel cover over it. Cut some foam to fit the gap under it.

Luckily, it appears the 95-97 steering wheels are still available on Megazip out of Japan for $1050 + shipping and import duties.

Or you can get a reman from CruiserParts for $349.
 
congrats on your purchase :cheers:

check with @arcteryx or @slow95z here on MUD for good used parts

I wouldn't buy from cruiserparts.net - search about them here on MUD will tell you enough
 
Sorting through the usual new old vehicle stuff but very happy it is better than expected.
Just a few pics for your viewing pleasure and of the work ahead
thanks again for the guidance, it's a keeper

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is the airbag missing? you can move the airbag from one steering wheel to another.
 
I said most of it jokingly but seriously.....

You will find in searching common problems on the truck. All three of mine have had the exact same problems. The worst things that can happen are about half a dozen things in the EGR system dying, intermittent starting problems, cracked gas tanks(which I am actually fixing right this moment) and failures due to lack of all around basic maintenance that is lined out from the factory protocol's. Head gasket pops but is more rare than most admit. None of mine have (Yet...)
I thought it was hilarious and nailed my sequence if you throw in new O2 sensors between baseline and EGR. I'm now at the ign relay bypass and just finished my 2nd front axle service.

But I do have a mild case of "while i'm in there". Hard not to reward excellent service with a small fraction of a car payment on new parts.
 
Whenever I get a new 80 I like hitting easy stuff first and deal with the hard stuff as it comes. Even if the last owner said they changed it, they usually get random stuff from autozone that kinda sorta fits. A good place to start is change out the radiator if it’s the original one, put new ignition stuff in (plugs, wires, cap, and rotor), and then put an egr test kit in from hud expo if you can. Do the wheel bearing if they need to be tightened up too, that’s a big safety issue. Everything else is either just normal car maintenance or a big job like the head gasket that usually doesn’t need to be done.

I my last 80 had 302k on it when I sold it with the original head gasket and the compression was 161 + or - 2. And cudos on the new 80! The white looks rad if you take care of it. Mine is kind of a cream color right now
 

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