- Thread starter
- #41
That sucks about the aluminum. That trailer pulls the best out of any that I have pulled. It's also super light. I think it was around 1400 lbs so about 1000 less than the steel.
7k or 10k trailer? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Sam Stewart
- Start date
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ntsqd
technerd
An aluminum trailer could be built so that the fatigue issue isn't an issue, but any weight savings over steel would be lost. Most trailer mfg's use structural sections (Channel, I-beam, T-bar, W-beam) for low cost, but a stronger and lighter trailer could be built from thin walled rectangular steel tube.
- Thread starter
- #43
So it was pointed out to me that the frame on the down 2 earth is possibly C-channel and not fully boxed. What's the take on that? Boxed is better obviously but I started looking and it looks like a lot of manufacturers do that.
C channel is fine. Most trailers are built that way.
Fully boxed reduces torsional twist, but does not do much for bending strength.
The ones that are angle Iron are the ones that concern me.
Fully boxed reduces torsional twist, but does not do much for bending strength.
The ones that are angle Iron are the ones that concern me.
crushers
post ho
mine is C channel bottom and then another for the main structure
personally i would rather have C channel since it is easier to wash and keep the mud (rust) out
personally i would rather have C channel since it is easier to wash and keep the mud (rust) out
ntsqd
technerd
I said "could be built", very unlikely that you'll find one already built that way. Would very likely have to build it yourself or commission one to be built that way. With the same section heights (or nearly so) Mace's comment is spot-on. Free up an increase in section height and with some study both torsional and bending strength can be increased. I would be surprised if weight couldn't be lost in the process, BUT the design analysis needs someone familiar with Statics and Strengths of Materials to do it. Very unlikely the average trailer builder can do design at the level.
And really, there are probably 100,000+ trailers out there built from the structural metal forms. Like Mace, the Angle steel based trailers scare me too, but the Channel trailers are pretty proven.
And really, there are probably 100,000+ trailers out there built from the structural metal forms. Like Mace, the Angle steel based trailers scare me too, but the Channel trailers are pretty proven.
- Thread starter
- #47
So I checked into some pricing on the aluminum trailers and they're way over budget anyway. The featherlite 7k was almost double what the 10k steel cost. Plus it seems like the steel is a better long term investment.
steel is the easy choice....plus it can be fixed rather easy. IF were just towing a hot-rod or race car or something like that a 7k trailer would be fine. IF you are going to tow a 4wd trail truck around with a bunch of crap then you better figure out some estimate of the weight and add 500 to a 1000 lbs on that. I've towed with some 7k trailers and I've always been concerned about it, I used the newer uhaul car hauler trailer which is a very well built trailer a few times and the last time with the uhaul made up my mind....I got tired of watching the mirrors and wondering what the trailer was going to do and was nervous as to how it acted (no mater how I positioned my towed truck on it).. I bought the 10K metal deck trailer and over the last year made a few mods to it and I just load it, check the straps and lights and I'm off. No wondering, no shimmy, no handling issues at all. I want to have a non-stressful safe drive. The 10K trailers are not light, I would use a 3/4 ton truck for towing (or one ton) if thats the route you take. The PJ trailers are some of the best Ive seen (overall) but are $$ which may be just the price of fame...I would have bought a PJ but I did not have enough $$ at the time.
Features I like: Dual Axle, Dual brakes, metal deck, HD metal drings on the deck front and back or other locations for tie down, stake pockets on the edge and front, other tie down options at mid deck and or sides, LED lights, a good trailer harness protected from road rash, min 2 5/8 ball setup, a good lift jack that has an adjustable foot, marker lights on the fender so you can see the width of the trailer at night, HD trailer hitch (some are adjustable), powder coated, good safety chains and well designed attachmetn points for them on the trailer neck, a "dead-man" brake switch, good 7 pin trailer harness, stowable ramps or well designed loading ramps, a trailer that does not make a hell of a lot of noise empty, spare tire/wheel mount, place for a tool box to put your tie down straps so you can lock it. Fenders you can stand on , 15 inch tires or bigger on the trailer. 6 lug or better axles,
my trailer does not have it ( I do have two large drings in front and back) but I would like a dedicated dring iin the front and back (at the center front and center rear) for a dedicated safety chain connection, seperate from the strap connections...one day I may change that.
Features I like: Dual Axle, Dual brakes, metal deck, HD metal drings on the deck front and back or other locations for tie down, stake pockets on the edge and front, other tie down options at mid deck and or sides, LED lights, a good trailer harness protected from road rash, min 2 5/8 ball setup, a good lift jack that has an adjustable foot, marker lights on the fender so you can see the width of the trailer at night, HD trailer hitch (some are adjustable), powder coated, good safety chains and well designed attachmetn points for them on the trailer neck, a "dead-man" brake switch, good 7 pin trailer harness, stowable ramps or well designed loading ramps, a trailer that does not make a hell of a lot of noise empty, spare tire/wheel mount, place for a tool box to put your tie down straps so you can lock it. Fenders you can stand on , 15 inch tires or bigger on the trailer. 6 lug or better axles,
my trailer does not have it ( I do have two large drings in front and back) but I would like a dedicated dring iin the front and back (at the center front and center rear) for a dedicated safety chain connection, seperate from the strap connections...one day I may change that.
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Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
I prefer wood. You can screw blocks, cradles, brackets... whatever down to it easily and remove them with no real damage. Handy foe securing odd loads that you might carry. I use my trailer for hauling parts, bits and pieces as well as complete rigs. It also gets used to haul non automotive stuff.. people always want to know if it is free when it comes time to move across town it seems. 
I prefer a full deck rather than one open in the middle for these reasons too. Wood is slightly less slippery when wet too.
Mark...
I prefer a full deck rather than one open in the middle for these reasons too. Wood is slightly less slippery when wet too.Mark...
crushers
post ho
i like wood decking as well.
versitile, strong and can be replaced if need be, although on mine you need to cut the welds at the back end top retainer to get the planking out. no bolts hold the planking down, it is sandwiched between the steel retainers front and rear. works well.
"can i borrow your truck and trailer for a move?"
"no"
done.
versitile, strong and can be replaced if need be, although on mine you need to cut the welds at the back end top retainer to get the planking out. no bolts hold the planking down, it is sandwiched between the steel retainers front and rear. works well.
"can i borrow your truck and trailer for a move?"
"no"
done.
- Thread starter
- #52
What about the longevity of the wood? I ruled it out because I assumed the wood wouldn't last as long. What's the life span? And how hard/expensive is it to replace?
crushers
post ho
mine is almost a decade now with no rot what so ever, standing up very well.
it is full 2" planking and replacement won't be a deal breaker.
it is full 2" planking and replacement won't be a deal breaker.
- Thread starter
- #54
I'm going to look at the price difference. If it's cheaper it may be an option. One of the reasons (other than the obvious ones) that I was looking at new is that all the used ones I saw had wood decks.
ntsqd
technerd
I know of a couple wood decked trailers that are over 20 years old, the wood on both is gray, but still not even close to needing to be replaced. After walking on a diamond plate metal deck that was wet I know that I'd never buy anything but wood.
The only time that I've ever seen an open center deck work to an advantage was once when replacing the torque converter between a 351 Cleveland and a Powerglide combo that was in a Bantam drag racer, while in the Motel 6 parking lot in Fremont, CA. And really, how often does something like that happen?
The only time that I've ever seen an open center deck work to an advantage was once when replacing the torque converter between a 351 Cleveland and a Powerglide combo that was in a Bantam drag racer, while in the Motel 6 parking lot in Fremont, CA. And really, how often does something like that happen?
- Thread starter
- #56
So it sounds like the wood deck is not a bad option. The price is not bad either. I can actually get a 14k for about 100 bucks more than the 10k steel. How much weight difference is there? I was told by the guy at the trailer place that the 10k steel weighs around 2200-2400.
You are quickly approaching the point where "more is better" is not true. I see no reason to get a 16ish ft trailer with a 14K rating. I mean honestly, what are you going to put on it? My crew cab, long bed, 4wd F350 fits on my 18' trailer and is within the weight rating of a 10K trailer. Heck, my 33' gooseneck is rated at 14K.
All the 14K will get you is more weight.
All the 14K will get you is more weight.
- Thread starter
- #58
That's a good point. I can't think of anything I would ever need to tow that heavy. Plus the Tundra is only rated for 10,500. I think someone commented above about getting a 3/4 ton or 1 ton to tow with. I think my Tundra is plenty especially for right now. The mini doesn't really weigh much and even loaded down with gear it towed fine. I did tow a Troopy which I believe is about 6000 to GSMTR this year for a guy. I used the Featherlite and it was no problem. Even in the mountains it didn't really struggle. He was behind me towing my truck on a Uhaul trailer with a Sequoia (like an 05) and he was really struggling on the long hill climbs. I just down shifted the Tundra and pulled the hill like a champ.
crushers
post ho
just remember that life changes so what you might not need now ... you might wish you bought at a later date.
one thing I havent seen mentioned is 16" tires, I have a 10k pound h&h tilt, great trailer but I wish I had gone 12k or 14k and gotten 16" tires, getting a 15" tire that will live has been an adventure. 15" trailer tires suck, they are all made in china and there are no light truck equilivants.
My advice is buy a 12k or 14k with 236/85/16 tires that you can get anywhere.. and then run a LT type tire they last longer and run cooler.. not that much more and well worth it if you use/abuse a trailer like I do..
I second the steel over aluminum, aluminum is nice but wont take the abuse expecially off road or loaded heavy.. they crack at the spring hangers
My advice is buy a 12k or 14k with 236/85/16 tires that you can get anywhere.. and then run a LT type tire they last longer and run cooler.. not that much more and well worth it if you use/abuse a trailer like I do..
I second the steel over aluminum, aluminum is nice but wont take the abuse expecially off road or loaded heavy.. they crack at the spring hangers
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