7k or 10k trailer? (1 Viewer)

[Mace]

Mace: What don't you like about the trailer design? I've hauled a number of other trailers that were similar design and I like them for my use. I didn't much care for the equipment style trailers with skids and open in between. What other type should I look at?

Look at how the tongue is designed in the first pic you posted and how it is set up in the pic I posted. Welding the tongue directly to the deck is not nearly as strong as another sub-frame under the deck.

Also, Mace I do like the better options for tires as well. The 7k only has a 205/75/15 and the options are not really great in that size as you stated. Do you run a bias or radial on yours? Most come with bias and I've heard they hold the weight a little better but they ride horribly unless they are brand new.

I've upgraded to some 225 tires (which are a tad too big) for my trailer made my Hercules I think. They are radials.
I've had one set of Bias ply tires. Was not impressed at all.

So far, over about 3K miles, the hercules seem to be holding up a lot better than the Carlisle or Towmasters I used before. Load range E is much nicer..

 

[Sam Stewart]

I was under the impression that it went under the deck and attached to the frame there. I'd have to look at it again though.

 

[John Smith]

I have a 7k car hauler from D2Earth trailers, I bought used, I'm very happy with. Don't forget to take into account the weight of the trailer when determining what you want to buy. My trailer has a sticker that says max load is 5160lb. I have never weighed it, but I'm guessing the trailer weighs the 1840lb difference. So a 7k trailer is really only capable of hauling a 5k load. My guess is a 10k is somewhere near 8k load.

 

[Mark W]

In spite of the fact that my 7000# has served me well through a lot of overuse, I have to agree with the folks that are saying that the 10K is a better choice. You Will tow more than you expect to.

For $600 difference (if I read that right), there is no question... go heavier.

100% agreement with Mace about the frame design. I would pass on the "no sub frame approach".


In a well built trailer, axles are the limiting factor and the part that takes the most abuse (after tires).

I considered upgrading my trailer with a pair of 7K axles that I have, but decided to hang on to them and built a larger trailer to use them under (With my 18 footer I can just barely fit my '40 and my M416 on it if I disconnect the trailer and slide the tongue up under the tail of the rig. it is a PITA to load and unload. If the trailer was even 2 foot longer I could just drive it on and off still hitched and connected.


I have had two blowouts... Not a fun experience. Use good tires... Use good tires... Use good tires.

And if you have a slow leak... fix the damn thing. Never cont on folks who borrow your trailer to check the inflation or to air a low tire up.

Swing away tongue jack is a must IMHO.

As are trailer brakes and breakaways.

Additional d ring tie down points are a big plus.

A weight distributing hitch is a very very nice addition if you are towing with anything short of a 1 ton truck


Mark...

 

[ar2stp48]

I have been pleased with the 20' (18' = 2' dovetail) PJ brand car hauler I have. As mentioned, trailers are rated by total axle capacity. Though I have a rating of 7000 lbs, cargo capacity is only 5000 lbs. Main frame is 5'channel with cross braces of 3' channel; tongue subframe; brakes on both axle. Have pushed the max on it bring a MB 350 SDL from Plano.

Look at the frame and the welds; when I was shopping, I looked at some trailers that were pure junk. I have never bought a trailer--have 6 of various sizes and types-- without pulling it a few miles; strongly suggest this to anyone in the trailer market

If you have not decided on a brand, look at the PJ line; well made trailers.

 

[Mace]

I'm not a fan of dovetails. Everyone I have use ends up being drug everywhere.

 

[ntsqd]

Just to be clear, this is how all trailer tongues should be built, regardless of the size of the trailer. Notice that it is UNDER the frame of the trailer. Doing it this way avoids building a hinge at the front of the deck (see Mace's example of how not to build them) and adds some strength where it's most needed.

I agree with others, for the $600 go for the higher weight rating. I'll also voice dislike for fixed tongue jacks. Unless they're really HD and well integrated into the tongue you will bend it or hurt it eventually. This jack is massive overkill for the trailer, but the key feature of it is the adjustable foot. When fully retracted the foot is less than 12" down from the bottom of the tongue.

 

[Mark W]

The trailer I am using these days is a PJ. Very well built... except for the aluminum fenders that were meant to be "quick remove". I HATE aluminum fenders. and the quick remove feature on my trailer was poorly conceived and executed. Get steel fenders and get sturdy ones.

My dovetail gets drug a lot. But it takes it without damage. (My ramps load from the side and there is a reinforcing bar across the back to act as a bit of a bumper when it gets drug or backed into an obstruction.)


Mark...

 

[ntsqd]

A trick that I added to a semi-flat bottom boat trailer that I refurb'd for a friend many years ago was to add rollers at the low spot. Nothing fancy, just something to be better than dragging the frame. Since his business is engine rebuilding I used some cast-off SBC wrist pins for the rollers.

 

[Sam Stewart]

Just to be clear, this is how all trailer tongues should be built, regardless of the size of the trailer. Notice that it is UNDER the frame of the trailer. Doing it this way avoids building a hinge at the front of the deck (see Mace's example of how not to build them) and adds some strength where it's most needed.

I agree with others, for the $600 go for the higher weight rating. I'll also voice dislike for fixed tongue jacks. Unless they're really HD and well integrated into the tongue you will bend it or hurt it eventually. This jack is massive overkill for the trailer, but the key feature of it is the adjustable foot. When fully retracted the foot is less than 12" down from the bottom of the tongue.

Yeah I like the idea of the swing up jack. I believe they have a 7k swing up option so I'll check into that. So back to the construction thing. The pics I posted are the way it is supposed to be, correct? The A-frame goes under the trailer and attaches to the other part of the frame there.

 

[crushers]

personally, i have both the flip up leg on an enclosed trailer and the HD crank vertical version on my float.
to be honest, both are adaquate but i REALLY like how the HD vertial cranks. one finger, give it a spin and it is effortless, even with a load on it goes up and down nicely.

if you do take the trailer off road into the rough then the vertical MIGHT be an issue. they do crank a way up and i have never had an issue (the one time i took it 9 km back a rough cutline) but i could see the concern.

if you are going to use it quite a bit then take the crank and run it up and down off the truck before you buy. if you struggle at all then walk away, would be my suggestion.

two things that matter to me, ease of ramps R&R and crank operation. these are the two things that can piss you off in a short time.
my rear pull out ramps are nice for quick loading and unloading of vehicles but even an 80 can get hung up on the break over. the custom 8' ramps work real nice for loading and unloading even lower slung vehicles, but they are heavy (i built them to support 14K lbs) and they have to sit verticle along the sides which can be a PITA.

i bought the trailer in 2006 (if i remember correctly) and have haul decent weights on it with NO issues at all. it is due for a sand blasting and repaint but mech it is reliable.

i would recommend you buy the best you can afford and IF you can, rent one for your next tow or two and then try a different one to see which you like best.
or
as you have found, recommendations work very well ...

 

[Mace]

My non flip up jack turns easily, and drags all over the place. It's not an off road thing, it drags going in and out of parking lots, gas stations, etc. By the time you run the hitch about 4' from the rear tires (F350 long bed) if you drive through a ditch, it's really easy to get close to the ground.

How tall is your trailer that a sub 4' ramp creates enough of a breakover angle that a freaking 80 series cannot make it? I've moved a slew of cars with my trailer and 4ish ft long ramps. Including a 300zx, a couple VW bugs and a porsche 924. Not one of them had breakover angle issues.

And yes, the pics you posted (lowe) are the correct design. The one I posted is not.

And I agree with Mark, I have not seen any real damage from dragging a dove. I just hate dragging things

 

[crushers]

you saw the pics, i can take measurements but the angle is steep with the 4' ramps and the t/case from the 80 got hung up.
<shrug>
maybe your leg sits down lower than mine, is it similar to the one in the pic 3 on my other post?

 

[Mark W]

One thing I do like about my dovetail is that any rig with tires 35 or larger I can just back off without messing with ramps. Most of our trail rigs have 38s and up and these I can just drive onto the trailer without ramps as well.

I don't take this trailer off road. But it does pull into unimproved trailheads, driveways, back yards and occasionally roadside ditches. Towed with an '80 (either a stock one or one with 2 inch lift), or towed with my Suburban... or really anything that puts the trailer level when hooked up... the leg would drag all the time if it was not swing away. If the trailer (and attachment point for the leg) sat higher, that would not be as big an issue.

A good strong hitch at the trailer ball is something to look at too. My PJ uses a Bulldog hitch. I'd stay away from those lightweight old school flip tap setups like you find on your Jon boat trailers from the '70s.


Mark...

 

[crushers]

agree completely, i love the bulldog hitch design. 2 5/16 ball is reassuring for me as well.

 

[Mace]

The bulldogs are nice. Mine has the flip up style and it has never been an issue, but I would have preferred the BD.

I tend to take the trailer on lots of dirt roads. None of them are that rough, but it does see dirt usage. Here is a pic from the Middle of the Blackrock Desert. Course, they do land speed records there as well so

 

[Sam Stewart]

Hey what do you guys think about Featherlite? We have one at work that I have borrowed a couple of times and it pulls great.

 

[Mace]

I'm not a fan of aluminum trailers. They tend to have a shelf life that is not as long as a steel trailer. But the Featherlites are built really nicely.

 

[crushers]

i looked at aluminum since i wanted the weight savings ... i was talked out of it due to the stress cracking of the aluminum.

in hindsight, i am glad i listened.

lately though, i have been beating the dead horse to see if i want one again.
<shrug, some people (me) are never happy>

 

[Elbert]

I too was advised against aluminum due to stress cracks over time.