77 Fj40 overheating

[sggoat]

Shop tech did just that--opened the block drain plug to drain the coolant in prep for the block flush out. He said it had a little sludge in it but after poking a screwdriver in it and working around it flowed fairly clear. I don't know what "fairly clear" means, but he said it flowed out pretty fast. They used Peak coolant flush in the block-moved it around and left it in overnight, then flushed it out with water twice. I'm sort of confident they did what they said. The original rad is still being worked on, prob. won't get it back till Monday-don't know what they got out of it yet--they are supposed to save the gunk for me so I can see it--pics if they do.

 

[HoundDog]

Just for reference, my '80 2F runs between 180 -210 degrees. I have aftermarket gauges which indicate temperature. Going back to OEM gauges soon....

 

[sggoat]

Ok--so I finally got the refurbed OEM radiator back today--squeaky clean inside and out. Went ahead and put it in. Took the truck for a test drive--whoo-wee---no overheat!!!
My bad mistake was changing too many things at once--now I don't know for sure what actually fixed the problem-- Clean radiator, or new water pump? or new OEM T-Stat(thanks Beno)
The rad shop says the OEM rad was plugged up big time, but clean now. Pulled the Aluminum Champion rad and put the OEM back in. The T-stat was non-OEM, and had some funky looking braces inside it, plus, someone drilled holes in the top-presumably to get more flow-(but they sure didn't know the design, cause the top seal covered the holes up anyway){BTW, this was the 3rd T-Stat that was installed since the problem started(all of them non OEM)} So now it has the proper one in it.
I want to thank all the members who posted potential solutions--I finally got it right(I think)

 

[Weber Sarge]

There are quite a few areas where the oem parts are just better designed , the cooling system is one of those . The other big one is the locking hubs - Warn can't come close to Aisin in strength . It's crazy that you can use aftermarket thermostats in nearly anything but a Japanese truck - they just don't work . Went through the same issues with my Samurai for over a year , oem 'stat cured it and sort of pissed me off after all that work/money . Same with the Cruiser , lesson learned this time .
Don't sweat changing a lot of parts , many times it's not just one small part of a system but the sum of all the parts that cause an issue .
Sarge

 

[kruisinkid]

sarge, is this the 80 series clutch? i think i saved this when i read that thread about the clutches being interchangeable: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EEYLT0/?tag=ihco-20

sggoat, do you have an oil cooler? what water pump did you go with? p/n? glad you got it sorted out. ive had an aftermarket t-stat in mine with a brand new 4-core aftermarket rad (not alum) for about a year and it runs a hair on the hot side with constant highway driving. i stupidly didnt change the water pump back then when i had everything apart. i might circle back to it this summer but havent been able to nail down a good water pump without an oil cooler port for the 2F.....

 

[Weber Sarge]

Not sure if that's the exact clutch , the one I'm interested in is from a long thread in the 80 series section that fits the 3FE engine as the spacing looks the same as the 2F engines . Like I said , my Tacoma has a similar clutch and it's pretty aggressive due to the tow package .
Sarge

 

[DSRTRDR]

the clutch you want is from a '91/'92 80 series - I have one of those now on my 2F in the 40 - so-called "aqua" hub in the discussion on the 80s forum - (I did not buy from Amazon, so have no info on those particular ones)

 

[Weber Sarge]

From my research it appears the FJ80 application is part #
16210-61160
I've found some threads on the web that indicate it will work on a 2F as Claudia mentioned , which is great . I assume since there are differences in water pump heights the clutch should be a non-issue since their hubs are all basically the same length , can anyone confirm this on 2F engines ?
Sarge

 

[kruisinkid]

excellent. fan clutch nailed down. now what water pump is reputable for a non oil cooled 2F?

 

[Tools R Us]

sarge, is this the 80 series clutch? i think i saved this when i read that thread about the clutches being interchangeable: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EEYLT0/?tag=ihco-20

sggoat, do you have an oil cooler? what water pump did you go with? p/n? glad you got it sorted out. ive had an aftermarket t-stat in mine with a brand new 4-core aftermarket rad (not alum) for about a year and it runs a hair on the hot side with constant highway driving. i stupidly didnt change the water pump back then when i had everything apart. i might circle back to it this summer but havent been able to nail down a good water pump without an oil cooler port for the 2F.....

That is the aqua clutch, a very aggressive/powerful clutch. Likely not needed unless running in desert conditions and/or lots of accessories, A/C, highly modded motor, etc. One thing to remember; the clutch is activated by the hot airflow from the radiator, so if the radiator is compromised, the clutch may not work as well as it could, so they need to be evaluated together.

 

[Tools R Us]

... I get from reading on the 80 board the Tacoma/Tundra odd colored clutch (almost pink) has a pretty aggressive lockup spring and is a heavy duty type to start with - looks to be the same bolt pattern too .
...

The pink hub that I have experience with is from the 4.0L V6, doesn't have the the correct spacing/fittment for the F motor or the 1FZ for the FZJ80.

 

[melvinjo]

The 224 is not considered over heating. Maybe a tad hot, but not damaging or overheating hot by any means

Get your radiator professionally cored and cleaned before you do anything ref the temp. Ill bet that rules it out Remember, your rad is about 40 years old

 

[melvinjo]

One last thing: A rad flush is NOT a radiator: A flush will not remove built up scaling. Remove rad, go to a rad shop. and have it tanked and recored

 

[kruisinkid]

oooooook. so about that water pump......part number?

 

[sggoat]

There are quite a few areas where the oem parts are just better designed , the cooling system is one of those . The other big one is the locking hubs - Warn can't come close to Aisin in strength . It's crazy that you can use aftermarket thermostats in nearly anything but a Japanese truck - they just don't work . Went through the same issues with my Samurai for over a year , oem 'stat cured it and sort of pissed me off after all that work/money . Same with the Cruiser , lesson learned this time .
Don't sweat changing a lot of parts , many times it's not just one small part of a system but the sum of all the parts that cause an issue .
Sarge

And Beno told me the same thing--it's the system--think SYSTEM

oooooook. so about that water pump......part number?

OEM pump came from $OR--their # is
054-024D-CA-OEM - ---$89 including ship

OEM T-Stat plus both gaskets from Beno--Total was ~$44, including ship

The OEM radiator that was originally in the rig(I kept it just in case--and this was the case) cost $85 to have it cleaned and rodded out
The Al Rad I had installed earlier will prob go to the recycler(pretty sure it's plugged up)--plus I think it may have contributed to the gunk in the system--seems like it almost acted like a sacrificial anode in a cooling system--you should see the coolant that came out of this thing after it sits for a day or two in a jar--sludge galore)
I'm now a believer in coolant change/flush every year