'77 FJ40 buildup in Charlotte (finally)

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I just read this while watching the Tarheels whip up on Duke... You are a talented guy and that is one sick build you've done... I'm not sure i could part with it after all the work you put into it... I have a 100 and recently bought a partially built FJ40 a couple weeks ago that I'm doing research for... Thanks for taking time to document all your work... Do you sleep???
 
Thanks, I do sleep (although some nights dream about tearing land cruisers apart for the 5th time). I decided to document the build in hopes of returning some data back to the readers of MUD, as they have provided most of what was needed for this build.

Finished the drivers side soft window frame. I gave the frame an inboard lean to hopefully make for a better seal, and to help the window create that resistance fit I was talking about. My thought is that the window will wedge itself in place against the windshield frame when the door is closed.
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I was beginning to feel like the end of this project was in sight. That's usually when the $hit hits the fan..... This time would be no different.:frown:

(more on this later)

The little blue painters tape on the body was placed to mark spots for the body shop to attend to during the final buffing. While waiting for their call, I decided to begin fabrication of the rear swing-out tire carrier. I emailed a few sketches to the plasma cutter to get some 3/8" plates cut. I decided to gusset the IPOR D-ring plates this go-round.

The plates and CCOT receiver hitch were test mounted on the truck. I used most of the existing holes, but had to drill four more in the rear crossmember.

The second picture is what I accumulated for the build (minus the IPOR D-rings) Hard to believe, but this is $350 in parts.:eek:
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I beveled the D-ring mounts for better burn in with the MIG. It's hard to see in the second picture, but the welding process warped the lower plate pretty good on the first assembly.:mad: With the second, I fully welded the gussets in place before burning in the plate for better results.
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The next thing I did was to cut a piece of 2 1/2" square tube. I had read many of the "bumper build threads" before beginning the last build. Everyone said to use 1/4" walled tube, but I just couldn't bring myself to hang that much weight off the back of a truck. The wall thickness on this stuff is 3/16" (and I'm considering trying 1/8" in the future).

Layed out and drilled two holes for the IPOR hinge. I ran a bead with the MIG before capping both ends of the tube and finishing the process with the TIG.
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Lastly, I welded a 3/8" plate to the CCOT hitch (my reason for choosing this style piece). The two D-ring mounts and the hitch will provide the three mounting points for the 2.5" square tube.
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I bolted everything back on the rear crossmember, laid the square tube with the IPOR hinge on, centered everthing and welded it all together. At this point, the paint shop called and said that they would be ready to finish the work on the paint the following morning. (bumper project on temporary hold)

Pulled the bumper off.
Pulled the soft door top frames off.
Pulled the half doors off.
Pulled the soft top off.

Loaded the half doors in the bed of the truck and hooked up the trailer. I usually roll trucks on the trailer without dropping the ramps. I decided that this would be an opportune time to check the rear spring/axle wrap by bumping the front tires up against the dove-tail on the trailer while loading.......:hhmm:
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Me: "Honey, tell me if the pinion angle changes when I gas the truck"
Her: "nothing"
Me: "Let me try it again"
**BANG**
Me: "WTF!!"
Her: "That wasn't good......"
 
I may have detailed the fact that I had some minor issues with the TCI built transmission. Specifically, the governor stuck, preventing the transmission from shifting. This was a minor problem with an easy fix, but did put the transmission health in question. After everthing went bang, the truck rolled free as though it was in neutral. No transmssion or transfer case setting would result in any driveline life.

I called TCI tech support. They requested immediate line pressure readings for all settings (R-N-D-3-2-1) and dropping the pan to check for pieces/parts. Line pressure reading were perfect.
 
The second thing I began to wonder about was the Marlin Toybox and it's associated shaft that was built into the 700R4. When Marlin sells you a toybox to be used with an automatic transmission, they also sell you an output shaft that gets built into the slushbox. This shaft was sent directly to TCI when we ordered the transmission and toybox. I called Marlin and talked to Jon. When I described the symptoms, he advised me that they had seen some failures with this shaft. Armed with all this data, it was obvious that the driveline had to come out of the truck again.:bang:
 
I tried to build in serviceability into the driveline by installing removable crossmembers and shifters, adjustable shift linkage, etc.

Still, a full 8 hours later, I had my answer.
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After talking it over with Jon at Marlin, a new shaft was sent out. Apparently, the part comes from Downey. They had some kind of problem with their fusion welding process.
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Jim that really sucks. I have to admit, you had me going: I thought for sure you were going to say the axle wrap either snapped the pinion or a u-joint. After reading what is was I wish it was the pinion.
 
jimbo, need any extra hands this week? I have some relatively open time every afternoon this week!!

That sucks. At least it broke at your house and not on the way to ohio.
 
Yo Josh!

The shaft from Marlin won't be arriving here until the 26th. Then I have to haul the transmission out to a shop to be rebuilt. I'm figuring that Greg will be providing labor to put it all back together (AGAIN!!!) when he comes down here on the 11th.

I guess I can get back to building the rear bumper while I have free time.

jC
 
Wait this sweet rig is coming to OH?
 

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