Builds 77 FJ40 Build, It begins...and may take a while (1 Viewer)

[franklin40]

totally agree. i didn’t like the look of that other crossmember but didn’t have a better design in mind until i saw yours. now i’ll take that design and run with it until it works for my specific application. i’m just so anxious to get the frame coated and start actually building. ill be happier with this done right though. i’ve spend this long doing things meticulously so i don’t want to compromise that all now

 

[franklin40]

a little more done on reds engine and a little more on the cross member. still making some of the same mistakes i made on the first one. guess i’m a slow learner

 

[franklin40]

fit is very close to perfect. my output flange just touches the crossmember. so do i put a spacer in it or do i cut a section on top of the crossmember and weld in an area lower down. this will take more work but give better clearance. we’re talking like 1/4 inch.

 

[White Stripe]

I would notch it.

 

[64Rotorhead]

fit is very close to perfect. my output flange just touches the crossmember. so do i put a spacer in it or do i cut a section on top of the crossmember and weld in an area lower down. this will take more work but give better clearance. we’re talking like 1/4 inch.
View attachment 1953625

Which poly mounts did you use? They are available in 2 heights, one shorter than the other. Maybe if you used the taller mounts you’d clear. I don’t recall the difference in height between the 2 but seems like it was ⅛”-¼”. Of course that will change your driveline angles a bit, unless instead you also lower the x member along with the spacer or taller mount. Or yet another option, get the smaller diameter flanges. So dang many decisions

 

[franklin40]

lol i know right. i think il notch it and reinforce it. i don’t want to go lower with the cross member. that’s why i went through all this trouble changing what i had. these are the shortest mount and i don’t want to keep buying more parts when i can make these ones work. i also wonder if i bought a smaller flange whether the corners of the drive shaft side would over hangs and contact anyway. ill do the work this weekend i hope

 

[franklin40]

this should be better....

i’ve run out of cut off wheels and grinding wheels so i think i’m done for the night.

ill finish the welding on the notch once i’ve got the brackets welded onto the frame.

 

[franklin40]

man this crossmember just wont end. i got a little more done tonight. i decided to fill the frame holes behind the bracket and i’m glad i did. i found a couple weak spots that just burned through when i welded it. that that’s where the new bracket would have been welded to the frame. it’ll be way stronger now that it’s fixed. ill hopefully finish up sunday night. fingers crossed.

 

[franklin40]

done!! at least the frame part is finished! i still have to finish welding up the notch and gussets on the cross member but i can do that while the frame is getting galvanized. i’m way happier with this cross member though it took a lot more work it’s worth it. this one fits better too

 

[Jclhammer]

Nice setup Franklin. Here is a pic of my crossmember, revision 2. Ya, this custom vehicle stuff takes a lot of trial and error, and gin. I used a kit from Ruffstuff that has a sleeved bushing and DOM tubing. The mount is 2"x1/4" square tube, and I tilted the connection to the transmission to account for the engine tilt. This way the bushings sit level. The crossmember sits 1.5" below the frame FYI.

 

[franklin40]

you and rotorhead have your trannys higher than mine i think. my cross member is about 2.5 inches below the frame i’m running a different engine which may play into how it’s tilted and driveline length. i’m trying to keep my rear drive shaft angle down a bit. i think ill be fine once a put a skid plate on. i’m not doing a ton of rock sliding but i will slide over the odd log!

 

[Jclhammer]

you and rotorhead have your trannys higher than mine i think. my cross member is about 2.5 inches below the frame i’m running a different engine which may play into how it’s tilted and driveline length. i’m trying to keep my rear drive shaft angle down a bit. i think ill be fine once a put a skid plate on. i’m not doing a ton of rock sliding but i will slide over the odd log!

I was going to go a little lower, but my slave cylinder mount on the bellhousing was conflicting with my frame rail. I shifted my engine as far forward as I could, and shifted the driveline 1.5" to the drivers side. I also plan to shift the rear axle back around 6 to 8 inches. This combined with a high pinion dana 60 rear, I think I will be ok.

I plan on making a skid plate also. How are you thinking of constructing it? I was thinking of using 3/16" plate, but that may be too heavy. Maybe 1/8" plate and intermediate supports at key locations.

 

[64Rotorhead]

I was going to go a little lower, but my slave cylinder mount on the bellhousing was conflicting with my frame rail. I shifted my engine as far forward as I could, and shifted the driveline 1.5" to the drivers side. I also plan to shift the rear axle back around 6 to 8 inches. This combined with a high pinion dana 60 rear, I think I will be ok.

I plan on making a skid plate also. How are you thinking of constructing it? I was thinking of using 3/16" plate, but that may be too heavy. Maybe 1/8" plate and intermediate supports at key locations.

Here's a pic of my slave with Vortec. Plenty of room from frame, but it is close when exhaust is on.

 

[64Rotorhead]

Sorry, I should have posted this to Jclhammer's page

 

[Jclhammer]

Wow, you have a ton of room! Is your engine/trans/TC aligned with the center of the frame or rotated a bit? I can tell that your engine is shifted to the passenger side, compared to my setup. Interesting that your TC is a little lower than mine, but have a lot more room.

 

[franklin40]

@64Rotorhead you do have a ton of space for your slave. mine clears the frame by a good inch. my engine is perfectly centered. you seem to have more room than i do. i can’t imagine frames being that different between years could they

 

[64Rotorhead]

@64Rotorhead you do have a ton of space for your slave. mine clears the frame by a good inch. my engine is perfectly centered. you seem to have more room than i do

It may just be the pic angle, and it wouldn't look like as much room if the exhaust manifold was on there. I have about 1" from the manifold to the slave. So I intend on some kind of heat shield in between. Worried about the slave getting hot. It must be the Vortec in combo with AA's bell housing to the NV4500 that's different from your guys set ups

 

[Jclhammer]

I'm not familiar with the Vortec blocks. Maybe they are a bit narrower than the Gen1 SBC blocks. Ya, an aluminum heat shield should work for ya. So your doing cast manifolds. Was thinking of doing the same, but block hugger headers may fit better for mine. I just dont want to deal with exhaust leaks.

 

[franklin40]

off to galvanize tomorrow

 

[White Stripe]

Sweet!