76 rear recovery point bolt questions (1 Viewer)

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gkanai

gkanai

Joined
Apr 1, 2008
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I've added some recovery points to the rear of my 76.

My question is this: is re-using the OEM bolt safe if the recovery point itself takes up additional bolt length and the bolt is not that long to begin with. If I buy a replacement bolt, do I buy Grade 11 bolts?

On one side, I've re-used the OEM bolts that were in the frame. The manufacturer of the recovery point says to re-use the OEM bolt. These have a giant washer that cannot be removed and is marked "11" (I assume that's Grade 11.)

On the other side, I've taken off the non-recovery-rated metal loop and reused the OEM longer bolts from that. They're not Grade 11 though. They have 6 lines on the bolt face.

I think the safest thing would be to buy a longer Grade 11 bolt, which I'll shop for but wanted to know what others are doing for rear recovery points on your 70 Series. Thank you.

IMG_7084.JPG


The longer bolt is from the loop that is on the rear of the frame that is not recovery-rated.

The shorter one with the large washer is the OEM bolt for the frame.

IMG_7079.JPG




Below is the OEM frame bolts from that location.

IMG_7080.JPG


Below are the bolts from another part of the frame but they're longer.

IMG_7081.JPG


IMG_7079.JPG
 
I think you should probably change those out for something more equivalent to the OEM bolts that you already reused. For reference, it's good to have at least one thread showing on a bolt after the nut is torqued down.
 
WarDamnEagle said:
I think you should probably change those out for something more equivalent to the OEM bolts that you already reused. For reference, it's good to have at least one thread showing on a bolt after the nut is torqued down.
Click to expand...
Thank you. So get longer Grade 11 bolts then with a wider washer like the OEM location bolt then?

When you say one thread showing- where do you mean? On the inside of the frame? Not sure if I can see inside there tbh.
 
gkanai said:
Thank you. So get longer Grade 11 bolts then with a wider washer like the OEM location bolt then?

When you say one thread showing- where do you mean? On the inside of the frame? Not sure if I can see inside there tbh.
Click to expand...
Just make sure the bolt is at least long enough to go all the way through the nut. My "one thread showing" was just a general comment about length of the bolt. Again, as long as it will engage all the threads of the nut you should be fine.

Edit: If you are sure the other bolts are long enough then just buy bolts that are at least that long. Maybe that would have been a simpler comment.
 
WarDamnEagle said:
Just make sure the bolt is at least long enough to go all the way through the nut. My "one thread showing" was just a general comment about length of the bolt. Again, as long as it will engage all the threads of the nut you should be fine.

Edit: If you are sure the other bolts are long enough then just buy bolts that are at least that long. Maybe that would have been a simpler comment.
Click to expand...

Ok- I get your point. In this case there is no nut to measure the threads at- the threads are inside the frame. In this case, I'll get longer bolts and a wider washer like the OEM bolt/washer combination. Thank you!
 
gkanai said:
Ok- I get your point. In this case there is no nut to measure the threads at- the threads are inside the frame. In this case, I'll get longer bolts and a wider washer like the OEM bolt/washer combination. Thank you!
Click to expand...
Not sure where you are located but in the US those flange bolts would be relatively easy to find. Bolt with a washer will work just fine though.
 
Hello,

I may be stating the obvious here.

Make sure you torque the bolt to specification.





Juan
 
Yes- I have 4 of each bolt, actually. My worry is about the bolt length mostly. I think that the longer bolt will be the stronger bolt.
JuanJ said:
I may be stating the obvious here.

Make sure you torque the bolt to specification.
Click to expand...
Absolutely. That's why I am concerned about the bolt length and the bolt grade. Will also track down the torque spec. Thx!
 
If you’re not sure how deep the captive threads in the chassis are you could use a piece of wire with a little hook in the end to measure the depth of the thread, then measure the thickness of the recovery point, add 5mm or so and call it good. For what it’s worth I used Grade 12.9 hardware when installing my hitch.
 
AirheadNut said:
If you’re not sure how deep the captive threads in the chassis are you could use a piece of wire with a little hook in the end to measure the depth of the thread, then measure the thickness of the recovery point, add 5mm or so and call it good. For what it’s worth I used Grade 12.9 hardware when installing my hitch.
Click to expand...

Great idea! Thank you- will try that.
 
For interest sake, six radial lines indicates an imperial, grade 8 bolt - (high strength). Imperial med and lower strength bolts are grades 5 and 2 respectively. Metric equivalents for low/med/high are class 8.8, 10.9, and 12.9.

In a former life I worked at a wholesale nuts and bolts plant. My truck at the time had an awful lot of 12.9 bolts and stainless screws... 🤣
 
Reviving this thread looking for info on this recovery bracket.

Who makes it and does anyone know what it's rated for?

Want to keep the factory rear bumper on my 70.

It looks OEM but I couldn't find it for a 76.

Anyone know a good alternative?
 
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