- Thread starter
- #41
More, center brace stiffener
Builds 76 Project Silver Back
- Thread starter SMG
- Start date
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- #42
More,
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- #43
More,
Other side frame horn.
Other side frame horn.
Don't sweat using the Everlast - I know a lot of pro shops that have bought those and run the snot out of them . Pretty big bang for the buck and the extra controls they have come in nice if you know how to use them . For sheet work , try some experiments using 33% backround and various frequency settings on pulse - once dialed in to the gauge metal you're using it can help keep the heat down . Most only complain about how their controls are laid out - pretty much backwards to Miller and Lincoln .
You could switch out to a 17 series torch but they run out of steam at around 150 amps . Fine for most work and I prefer my CK twist lock designed 17 - I can get that nose in almost anywhere and have even used it with a mirror on the back side of tubing against a vertical panel , lol .
The torch model I have for running with the Dynasty 200DX is the CK FL1525SF (air cooled flex loc head , 25' superflex cable) . Be aware that CK uses world standard metric threads , but their head parts will interchange (they call it 2&3 series) with any 17 series out on the market and CK does have adapters to swap from the metric to SAE thread standard cables . I switch back and forth between CK's stubby setup , long standard gas lens heads and 2 different size glass (clear , see-through) 17 series nozzles w/gas lens . Those gas lenses using the screens make a world of difference in the gas column coming out of the head - cut my argon usage in half , not kidding . It is by far my favorite torch and plan to get a bigger 250 amp series w/valve to run dc scratch start off engine drives and such soon to give me more options .
I had one issue with my original flex loc - melted the locking knob and kept having issues with excessive heat . Something wasn't right in the head with the gas passages or something ...they sent 3 free new knobs and a week later sent a brand new torch kit complete - no charge . Mine was 2yrs old at that point and they were told that , just wasn't expecting them to go out of their way that much but their customer service is second to none . If you get one of their torches , just note what size heads work with in their series numbers and download their pdf catalog - makes it a lot easier finding parts and getting different head setups and kits ....
Sarge
You could switch out to a 17 series torch but they run out of steam at around 150 amps . Fine for most work and I prefer my CK twist lock designed 17 - I can get that nose in almost anywhere and have even used it with a mirror on the back side of tubing against a vertical panel , lol .
The torch model I have for running with the Dynasty 200DX is the CK FL1525SF (air cooled flex loc head , 25' superflex cable) . Be aware that CK uses world standard metric threads , but their head parts will interchange (they call it 2&3 series) with any 17 series out on the market and CK does have adapters to swap from the metric to SAE thread standard cables . I switch back and forth between CK's stubby setup , long standard gas lens heads and 2 different size glass (clear , see-through) 17 series nozzles w/gas lens . Those gas lenses using the screens make a world of difference in the gas column coming out of the head - cut my argon usage in half , not kidding . It is by far my favorite torch and plan to get a bigger 250 amp series w/valve to run dc scratch start off engine drives and such soon to give me more options .
I had one issue with my original flex loc - melted the locking knob and kept having issues with excessive heat . Something wasn't right in the head with the gas passages or something ...they sent 3 free new knobs and a week later sent a brand new torch kit complete - no charge . Mine was 2yrs old at that point and they were told that , just wasn't expecting them to go out of their way that much but their customer service is second to none . If you get one of their torches , just note what size heads work with in their series numbers and download their pdf catalog - makes it a lot easier finding parts and getting different head setups and kits ....
Sarge
- Thread starter
- #45
Sarge -thanks for all the info. I don't use the tig machine as much as I should.
My problem with this machine is that it has so many different settings.
I'll try what you suggested. I've always had that problem of not building up the heat fast enough.
Thanks
Steve
My problem with this machine is that it has so many different settings.
I'll try what you suggested. I've always had that problem of not building up the heat fast enough.
Thanks
Steve
Using pulse settings is pretty tricky - you need the main input amperage pretty high , use 33% of it on the backround low side of the pulse , 33% on-time and generally around 33hz for the frequency - it's all a matter of preference . Just takes a lot of reading up on the manual , doing a lot of experimenting and watching YouTube perhaps for some hints . Jody Collier on YouTube has some great tips on the Everlast since he has one and makes weekly videos - www.weldingtipsandtricks.com
Sarge
Sarge
- Thread starter
- #47
While continuing to look for a tub in late 2015, I came across this deal from another mud member TCStark.
A 1976 FJ40 unrestored rust free tub with minimal surface issues.
SOA cut and turn with shackle reversal
1993 350 SBC TBI (low miles)
NV4500 (like new)
ARB lockers front and rear.
I this point I had put in a lot of time/work into my frame, but TCSTARK (a real stand up guy) worked with me on a partial trade.
A couple of months later and I was headed to Georgia.
Here it is arriving at its new home.
A 1976 FJ40 unrestored rust free tub with minimal surface issues.
SOA cut and turn with shackle reversal
1993 350 SBC TBI (low miles)
NV4500 (like new)
ARB lockers front and rear.
I this point I had put in a lot of time/work into my frame, but TCSTARK (a real stand up guy) worked with me on a partial trade.
A couple of months later and I was headed to Georgia.
Here it is arriving at its new home.
- Thread starter
- #48
First thing, give it a good cleaning and while doing so, start making a detailed list of what I'm going to need and what modifications I want to do.
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- #49
Since the Saginaw conversion was still fresh in my mind I thought I would start there.
I'm not to crazy about how the original owner did the PS conversion. It's my belief that if you are going to cut into the crossmember you should try to mount the PS gear box as level and as far back as you can it.
My reasoning is because you want your drag link as parallel to the axle as possible and the pitman arm level so it doesn't swing in a arch.
Even though the location of gearbox mounting plate is not ideal, I've decided to leave it for now and see how it performs. If I think the steering seems a little weird, I can always go back and design a new mounting plate.
Whoever did the conversion was a really good welder which is another reason why I don't want to cut into it just yet.
Here is the location of the gearbox.
I decided to add a stiffner brace just like the one I did on my original frame. Along with sleeves for inside the frame channel.
More to come....
I'm not to crazy about how the original owner did the PS conversion. It's my belief that if you are going to cut into the crossmember you should try to mount the PS gear box as level and as far back as you can it.
My reasoning is because you want your drag link as parallel to the axle as possible and the pitman arm level so it doesn't swing in a arch.
Even though the location of gearbox mounting plate is not ideal, I've decided to leave it for now and see how it performs. If I think the steering seems a little weird, I can always go back and design a new mounting plate.
Whoever did the conversion was a really good welder which is another reason why I don't want to cut into it just yet.
Here is the location of the gearbox.
I decided to add a stiffner brace just like the one I did on my original frame. Along with sleeves for inside the frame channel.
More to come....
I started my carear as a welder and retired as a design engineer. You have done a great job sofar, keep it up.
I would have been very proud to have had you on my team.
I would have been very proud to have had you on my team.
- Thread starter
- #51
I started my carear as a welder and retired as a design engineer. You have done a great job sofar, keep it up.
I would have been very proud to have had you on my team.
Heron,
Those are some kind words......
I am always up for criticism and willing to listen to others to try and further my skills/knowledge.
That's what makes this forum so great!
There are so many talented people here and I've have learned so much just this past year.
Thanks again,
Steve
- Thread starter
- #52
Decided to strip/paint the rear cross member. Also installed new Energy Suspension body mounts.
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- #53
Because of my SOA conversion, the rear shackles mounts have been relocated through the frame. The reason for this is to try and keep the ride height down.
It was apparent that this modification required the lower triangled crossmember brace be removed allowing the shackle to have full swing.
Because these pieces were no longer there and I want to be able to tow a trailer, my solution was to make triangle pieces for the top of the frame.
These parts are made out of 3/16" with a 5/8th offset.
Painted with black Imron paint.
It was apparent that this modification required the lower triangled crossmember brace be removed allowing the shackle to have full swing.
Because these pieces were no longer there and I want to be able to tow a trailer, my solution was to make triangle pieces for the top of the frame.
These parts are made out of 3/16" with a 5/8th offset.
Painted with black Imron paint.
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- Thread starter
- #54
More pics.
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- #55
Do to my SBC and NV4500, the original frame torque tube was removed because of interference issues.
Thanks to Dave at 4plusproducts, his group makes a really nice replacement torque tube.
I decided to make mine removable. So I made mounting rings out of 1/4" steel plate.
Here's a picture indicating the ring in on top of the mounting flange.
Mocked up on the bench.
Surprisingly it wasn't too bad welding it in with the tub still on. I did however have the rear of the tub jack up 4 inches or so.
Thanks to Dave at 4plusproducts, his group makes a really nice replacement torque tube.
I decided to make mine removable. So I made mounting rings out of 1/4" steel plate.
Here's a picture indicating the ring in on top of the mounting flange.
Mocked up on the bench.
Surprisingly it wasn't too bad welding it in with the tub still on. I did however have the rear of the tub jack up 4 inches or so.
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- #56
Back out for a nice coat of black Imron paint.
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- #57
Started on a new wiring harness from Painless. So far it's not so bad. Kinda worried about the turn signals and windshield wipers. I've read were those areas can be a pain in the butt.
This is my mount for the fuses.
Yikes!
This is my mount for the fuses.
Yikes!
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Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
I just found this thread. Love your attention to detail! Keep posting!
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- #59
Dropped the 22 gallon Conferr fuel tank and added a Centriod fuel sending unit.
Starting to think I should have installed an internal fuel pump.
I may revisit this issue in the near future but for now this will do.
This will be my only fuel tank.
Starting to think I should have installed an internal fuel pump.
I may revisit this issue in the near future but for now this will do.
This will be my only fuel tank.
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- #60
Modified my fuel inlet nozzel from curved to straight. This will keep the fuel hose from binding.
This is before I cut it up.
This is before I cut it up.
