76 FJ40 Resto advice needed (now a documentation)

[thebigredrocker]

1-14-2018 EDIT: I didn’t start a build page for this rig. The rig is currently driveable. I figured this would be a good thread to morf into a documentation thread. Pics will no doubt be out of chronological order

So here's the story behind my project. I bought a 1976 FJ40 from my buddy (8 years ago). It is currently on the rolling chassis and all the parts are in boxes. He painted the frame, coated the underside of the tub, rhino lined the tub, Old Man Emu lift, 2F is long gone, motor mounts and Downey BH were put in place by the PO for V8 conversion. Just found out I have some Saginaw PS conversion parts in box, pump & steering gearbox. Hired a body shop finish paint on the tub. Cleaned up a .327 and it's almost ready to go. I just have to replace some seals and gaskets.

Since I was not involved in tear-down and I am not very mechanical I need some help in re-assembly. Does anyone out there have a list of steps I could follow? At what point should the front fenders go on?

Here's what I am thinking:
Engine
Drive line
Exhaust
Saginaw PS
Radiator
Heaters (front & rear)
Brake lines
Fuel lines
Front fenders
Electrical wiring (have OEM should I get a Painless)
Gauges
Doors
Seats
Bumpers

a to-do list would be a big help. Thanks for any guidance you can provide.

Here are some pics I never provided

 

[want2wheel]

It looks like I may be in the same boat your in. I am looking at a 78 that has been apart for several years. I will have to do a little body work, and then it will be on its way back together. Your location may help members in your area that are willing to help. If I can do anything send me a PM. Rob

 

[DPV7070]

Redrocket

Welcome to 'Mud, this place is a great resource, so be sure to check out the FAQ's that have been so graciously provided for us all by those who have gone before us. In general, almost everything has been covered in some form or fashion and most every answer can be found by searching, so I'd prepare to get familiar with the search tool.

With that said, you're probably overwhelmed with your project and we've all been there--so don't worry, that's normal. Just remember, you wouldn't have bought it if you didn't think you could do it so quit saying you're "not very mechanical." If that's the case, you might as well sell it. So get prepared to be "mechanical." There, you should be ready to take that hill now...

If we're going to offer help, we need A LOT more information:
- What are you plans for the rig? DD, light to mild wheeler, mud bogger, rock crawler? Mall queen? All this is important.
- What is your working situation? Sufficient room, tools, etc?
- What's your budget?
- Pictures are always helpful in every situation

All that said, no project is going to be the same so you'll most likely have to sit down with pen and paper and map out your build.

If it were me, I'd work from the ground up under the constraint that you need the previous item to be working in order to justify the next item. Some can be swapped, but you get the point.

You said your chassis is rolling, so I'm assuming it's good to go, but if not check the following:
- Are your tires good to go?
- Front and rear wheel bearings (if needed)
- Seals
- Brakes (all components)

- I'd get the steering mocked up because you don't want to get the engine in and find out you didn't leave room for the steering shaft.
- Engine and drivetrain comes next
- Cooling system
- Wiring
- Body

This is just a swag. Hope it helps. Good luck.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Thanks DPV7070

Your advice to hook up the steering first makes sense. I have a nice working space. I built some rolling dollies so I can tuck the cruiser away when needed. What I want is to restore this FJ40 back to a classic looking cruiser. Mall queen who will occasionally get muddy. No brushy trails for this girl though. I don't have a timeline other than to spend every minute I can making progress. The brakes, transmission and wheel bearings have all been gone through by the previous restorer. I have been looking at threads on wheels. I have some Wrangler MT/R 235 85 R16's that I plan on mounting on 16" steel 12 slot or 4 slot chevy rims. I will add clips so OEM hub caps can be used for a stock look. I set them up against the stock tires and the fill up the rear fender wells nicely. I think tires can be one of my last steps though. I layed out all the parts on tables last night. My next step is to label them and get a list going of what I have. I was told everything is there, but expect some parts to me missing or in need of replacement. I will work on getting some pictures posted.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Jumping ahead of the great advice with pics of what transpired post advice

 

[thebigredrocker]

Solo tub flip

 

[bikersmurf]

I think you're on the right track. I've put together basket cases...

I'd finish all the wiring under the dash before installing the front heater.

Other than that, take it one step at a time. AA and Downey have conversion manuals online that may help with installing the 350. If the conversion wasn't done well or you want to change something about it, now's the time. You may later wish you had an auto, 5 speed, or diesel.

 

[thebigredrocker]

I tried to post pictures from my iphone using the ih8mud app. I didn't do something correct. Here's my last attempt using my computer. If this doesn't work I apologized for the empty posts. I can't edit or delete them. Here goes. Thanks for the wiring before heater tip. That is helpful. The guy from the bodyshop looked at the throw out bearing on the Downey bell housing and said he would replace that. My girls were pretty excited when I brought the 76 home.

 

[thebigredrocker]

My first restoration mistake

I should have really taken a good look at the underside of the tub before having a professional paint job done. The undercoat my buddy did 10 years ago is cracked, brittle and falling off in some spots. It's never been driven since he did the under coat. The minute I drive it and some rocks hit the fender wells that undercoat will be gone. And, I fear moisture and winter road chemicals will love the cracks and really start to rust the underside quick. I just assumed it was fine. I'm thinking about attempting to flip the tub over without damaging the paint. I don't have a sandblaster, I think the stuff is so brittle it will scrape off. Or, I might use a wire wheel. Dang I wish I would have looked closely underneath before having paint done. The school of hard knocks.

Also there are some chips in the frame coating. All in all the frame looks well protected. But, Rust has started on some small spots where the frame is exposed. It's nothing major but I just don't want to regret not dedicating a few extra evenings to fix those spots. I have no timeline. I'm definitely going to have the tub off. Can I get away with just sanding and repainting the rusty spots on the frame? Or would I be wise to strip the whole frame and make sure it's done right with product you all have tested and recommend. Maybe I'll beat on it with a hammer. If the frame coating withstands that I'll leave it.

 

[rubicon77]

Do you know what product he used on the underside of the tub ? I guess it doesn't really matter if it's already flaking off. It was either really poor quality product or just not prepped and/or applied correctly.
Most people here swear by either POR15, Rust Bullet or Chassis Saver. Can't go wrong with any of them in my opinion. You just need to follow the application instructions to the letter.
Check out Monstaliner in the search feature. That is a product that can be either rolled or sprayed underneath the tub after you've prepped it with one of the 3 products I mentioned above. I'm just thinking since your tub is already painted that rolling may be a better option if you have your tub on a dolly and can crawl underneath. You can go black, but I would suggest tinting it the color of your tub. Others here may disagree. Or you can skip the monstaliner and just use the rust preventors I mentioned.

I would also use the POR15, Rust Bullet or Chassis Saver on the frame. It will last a long time and keep it well protected. Just remember, proper prep and application is everything! Do it right the first time and save headaches down the road.

Looks like your starting out with a really nice rig. Tearing it down to the frame isn't something most people do every 5 or 10 years. Going slowly and taking care of any issues now will pay big dividends later. Good luck and keep posting pics as you move along on the build!

 

[thebigredrocker]

rubicon- Thank you for the ideas. I've never thought of or heard of tinting the underside. I'm mulling it over now. I'll search for that Monstaliner. Never thought of rolling something on either. That would be the way to go if I leave the tub on. I was thinking a spray on application would allow for good coverage. but would be real messy from the flat of my back. I know after painting my motor I need to wear a good mask. I'm still getting Chevy orange out of my sinuses. If there is a way to safely flip the tub over I think that would be easier to work on. Hopefully there are some guys who might share their tub flipping tricks with me. I'll search for some of those posts. I do know our head football coach, so may be I'll get a dozen brutes to just lift it off and set it on a couple mattresses. I would have to tape everything off real good. I have a 3 bay garage so I've got plenty of room. And I want to do this right. I can't post anymore pictures yet. I guess I hit my limit. Maybe if I open up a photobucket account I can get some images so folks can see what shape the frame and undercoating are in. Thanks again for your time and ideas.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Also I ordered some Rhino Shine Ultra to revive the bed liner in the tub. You can see from the pictures it's a bit weathered looking. Hope that stuff works as advertised.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Ok so I am going to try to post some pictures of my tub undercoating and the chips in the frame paint. Don't know what products were used on either. All I know is this thing has never even been on a road since the rust coatings were applied. I am certain the tub undercoat needs to go. What do you think about the frame? Clean up just the rusty spots or just re-do. If I re-do the frame should I sandblast it or use chemical and elbow grease?

Edit: Stock shackles will soon get replaced with Mark’s Offroad’s +1 1/2’ Heavy Duty shackles. @65swb45

 

[rubicon77]

Looks like the underside of the tub was a rattlecan spray on product with little or no prep....should be able to wire brush most of that off...On the frame, I would wirebrush that as well around the flaking areas to see how well the stuff holds on...if it comes off I would do the entire frame and reapply one of the products I mentioned.

Get used to using the search function on here...most, if not all your questions have been asked and answered previously by someone here at some point. Take a look down to the Paint and Body section and look around there as well. Also, the FAQ stickies are a good place to start.
I like the stock look of having the underside of the tub color matched to the rest of the cruiser. Lots of ways to do that. Here is what I mean. Click on this link and scroll to the photo at the bottom of the page.. https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...j40s-best-color-show-us-what-you-have-17.html and here is some other info as well..
https://forum.ih8mud.com/paint-body/190103-pumpkin-40-roller-paint-job.html
Lots of info on this forum, and since your not on a time crunch, if it were me I would read, and read, then read some more and get all the info I could before you jump in and do something...everyone has their own opinion and what I or another might like or prefer won't necessarily be what you or someone else would want.
Also, for a $20 you can become a member and post all the pics you want and increase your pm box, plus it goes towards keeping this sight up and running! Pretty good investment to my way of thinking! Good Luck!!

 

[thebigredrocker]

With that said, you're probably overwhelmed with your project and we've all been there--so don't worry, that's normal. Just remember, you wouldn't have bought it if you didn't think you could do it so quit saying you're "not very mechanical." If that's the case, you might as well sell it. So get prepared to be "mechanical." There, you should be ready to take that hill now...

Thanks for the pep talk.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Line-X underneath

Restored the Rhino that was exposed to elements for around 15 years

Dash was not hacked by me. I was so green I handed the painter the bezel with body color parts

 

[thebigredrocker]

Getting ready to throw up a paint booth then coat the boxed fame channel with Por-15 rust annihilator and frame exterior with Hardnose 2 part epoxy.

The epoxy is tough as nails. I will discover that when I later try to sand an area for the Saginaw conversion.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Everything was done solo. Challenging but satisfying

It was not a simple task to locate 16” rims. I added VW clips. Clips work fine. That said, my 71 is borrowing the hubcaps so I’ll probably remove the clips. Only 1 rim got clipped.

Belly pan I spent time on but had no clue it wouldn’t work with the SBC swap
Rims & bumperettes got 2 part epoxy, por15 labeled it Hardnose at the time

 

[thebigredrocker]

VW clips.

Decided to restore the 76 tank. Used POR-15 Tank Sealer Kit. I did a pre rinse with boiling water and some big nuts. Used a heavy rubber glove to seal the fuel fill and ran screws through a rubber glove to seal the fuel sending unit hole. Then shook the p!ss out of it. Then a round of boiling water w/degreaser & nuts. Then rinse. Then metal etch. Then rinse. Rigged up a fan to the fuel fill.
Let it dry overnight and sealed’er up. Seemed to work good.

Before

After

Used the Camp Chef for hot rinse water

 

[thebigredrocker]

Skid plate that wouldn’t fit

Epoxyed