76 FJ40 Resto advice needed (now a documentation)

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I used JB weld to patch up some cracks in my heater box. Came out pretty good - but that is another product that is just a pain to sand. I figured it was "glue," so how hard could it be. Turns out, a heck of a lot harder than the plastic it bonded to!

Looks good man - following the thread and can't wait to see the finished product.
 
I’ve had some PM’s asking how I went about restoring plastic parts. I think of plastic like calloused feet. You have to grind away the dead top layer. Usually if you go deep enough, the stains, scratches and discoloration will vanish. Then you’ll be left with virgin plastic. Midway through the first set of headlights I sanded I thought I was in trouble. They looked chalky and frosted. But if you finish with P3000 then polish it’s quite amazing how clarity returns. I haven’t found a great plastic polish yet but the mothers seems decent. I used to really like Meguires but the last couple bottles seem like the formula has changed, it’s a bit sticky.:meh:

Occasionally like to use Dremel sanding buffs to cut through deeply scratched or yellowed plastic. The coarse EZ lock buff is really handy. Also have found the wand attachment worth its weight in gold. I hang the dremel on a wire, sorta like a redneck dentist tool.

Awhile back I was trying to figure out how I’m going to wetsand orange peel from my lid I shot with single stage. Saw a youtube recently about 3M’s Velcro Trizact disc’s. Then ran acrossed a site called autgeek having a 25% sitewide sale, so I splurged on some abrasives and a pnuematic random oribital. Here are some of the various grits I use. The maroon disc labeled PRO is from a jobber, stick with 3M. And yes I have a hard time throwing used paper away:slap:
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Here’s a handy 3” velcro backing pad for the 3M discs
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I used the coarse dremel EZ-Lock buff to peel layers off this coolant bottle. Then wetsand, then mothers polish.
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@offkilter’s elephant horn I got for my 71. Didn’t have 5000 grit at the time. 5000 woulda really made them shine.
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Coulda went deeper to remove more scratches
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Also as mentioned above I’ve used some liquid dye that purchased for weathered rhino lining on a couple dash pads, and weathered defrost vents. Seems to work good. Apply it with a soft sponge, I try to make just one or two passes.
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This plate finally got removed
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Installed the fan blower, heaters, and windshield squirter. Just in time for summer:D
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Due to aftermarket gauges, I relocated the fresh pull and warm pull.
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Interior is a bit more complete.
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The old heat control valve leaked from the rod so I drained coolant and installed a new valve from cityracer. Man he ships quick:cheers:

Since coolant was drained I figured I’d build a shroud from scraps:hillbilly:
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Probably a big no-no, I removed flat metal from the screen support.
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And removed some of this metal from the radiator support brace. Trying to get more airflow for the chebby
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A bit more potential for airflow
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Decided to try my hand at removing orange peel from the roof.
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And some runs
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Right side of picture wetsanded with P800, P1500, and P2000
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Finished with P3000, then P5000.
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Worked in sections using masking tape as a guide. One little section of orange peel left:cheers:
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Sheets of sandpaper only. Sanding done Karate Kid style with a water filled squirt bottle. I have sanding machines and liquid abrasives, but was afraid I’d burn through the paint.
 
Time to finally paint a few parts.
OEM Dune front door headers. Rig was missing the rear ambi header, so I found a replacement.

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Shot with Dupont Chroma Premier single stage. Really like how it layed down. Used a Paint jobbers scanner to try for a decent match.

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Luke @4x4labs gave me this 4runner hitch when I purchased some stuff. Thanks Luke!🍺 Said w/ a couple mods it could be made to work. Sliced notches for the bumper hot rivets and moved the bolt holes.
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Tacked welded the old holes, smoothed and shot with durable epoxy primer and single stage black.
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