Builds 76 FJ40 in South Texas (1 Viewer)

[South Texas 97]

The various clips were all bad, cleaned the up, used some plastidip spray, but it did not seem thick enough so added some heat shrink with adhesive, came out very nice.

while building up my courage for the transmission install, I needed to get the PTO shaft out, of course this was not straight forward, and ended up removing the winch as well.

multiple cuts on the triangle shaped plates, and many holes in the bumper itself. I went ahead and ordered new gusset plates, bolts and front bumper.

The parking brake cable cover was worn through in a couple of places, so used two layers of heat shrink and then some split loom cover over the top.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

super super kool ......


- make dam sure u get qty x 2 Part # 90113-10007 drum retainer screws JIS P-3 phillips screw driver too


- the top of the T-CASE selector shaft seal will puke gear oil if not replaced also , 90310-13001

- if i recall u have to replace from under cover ? removed so gasket # 36141-60020


- rear T-case seal 90311-45001


- front seal cone 90311-38134

- boot select shift shaft 36318-60010

 

[ToyotaMatt]

was the PTO gear box a aftermarket RAMSY that bolted on back of T-CASE ?

 

[South Texas 97]

The PTO seems to be a Toyota unit based on the stamping. Although there are no other numbers or markings.

The winch itself is a Koenig winch, with a bit more time will clean it up and see if it works.

 

[South Texas 97]

All set to reinstall the transmission tunnel, fuel tank and eventually the seats. From this

to this, strip back to bare metal, derust gel, acid wash, two coats of POR15, and something close to the original beige. Basically to protect until I decide to do a full frame off paint job.

 

[South Texas 97]

Install the transmission cover and gas tank, with all new gas lines.

the odd thing is the bumper is cleaner if you install upside down. There is a lot of extra holes When it is up the right way, with the square holes on the top. Took just a few minutes with a file to square up the holes for the dome bolts.

got some tires on order for next week, the current ones are 20 years old.

 

[South Texas 97]

New tires all around

next up the fuel pump.

the rubber diaphragm was pretty cracked.

I noticed the return spring was also a bit shorter than the new one.

it cleaned up pretty well.

 

[South Texas 97]

Next is the heater under the dash, took a bunch of photos so I could put it back together. Some rust on the edges of the panels and the foam was completely rotted, although ok around the radiator element itself.

Derusted everything and blasted some parts. Zinc plated all the nuts and bolts and then primer and paint. Rinsed the radiator element with CLR but it came out pretty clean. A combination of vacuum, compressed air and a bristle brush cleaned up the radiator element, followed by a good rinse with water.
Put it all back together and it looks pretty nice if I do say myself.

 

[South Texas 97]

Turn signals/Indicators are installed, picked up a new gasket, and then derusted the bolt and nut, and all the little Phillips screws holding the base. Added a ground wire, and wrapped everything in Tessa tape.

I had some of the correct wires left over from doing the rear harness.

I did notice when I stripped them down some oxide on the inner barrel of the side lights and the indicators, polished that away with some 400 grit sanding disc on a dremel.

 

[South Texas 97]

On to the bed of the FJ40. At some point this had a hard top and doors with a latch in the floor in the center and two hinge mounts.
the PO had made and bolted in a fairly robust tailgate.

I might reuse that in some form, but for now the project is remove paint and as much rust, derust, and then paint with POR15

Bit tedious to do, but worth it. All ground out with a couple of poly disk, and a bunch of wire wheels and dremel tools for the seams.

derust applied.

 

[South Texas 97]

clean off the derust and apply POR15 acid rinse, wash that off with two coats of POR15, and two coats of temporary beige.

Found some foam mats that should provide some cushionIng from the drumming of such a large flat area, and then some 3mm rubbed rubber on top

 

[South Texas 97]

The front floor covering is fine on pax side but toast on the drivers side. Spoke with a normally very cooperative upholstery guy who said this was not repairable as they don’t make this type of vinyl anymore. So for now I cut out the drivers side, and will fit the rubber over the edges.

while thinking about that mounted some gauges- they are intended for the instrument cluster but for now mounted in the old radio slot which was pretty ugly. The intent is to replace the two mechanical gauges, oil pressure and water temperature that seem to be randomoly placed.

ordered some of the proper wire colors, and found an instrument light connector and switched 12 volts from the seatbelt buzzer which is not installed. I do plan to reinstall a proper water temp sensor, and am wondering if the highlighted hex plug will work for the secondary water temp sensor

need to order some BSPT to NPT nipples.

 

[1911]

The front floor covering is fine on pax side but toast on the drivers side. Spoke with a normally very cooperative upholstery guy who said this was not repairable as they don’t make this type of vinyl anymore. So for now I cut out the drivers side, and will fit the rubber over the edges.

Front Moulded Floor Mat for '73 to '78 Land Cruiser FJ40 - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/front-moulded-floor-mat-for-land-cruiser-fj40?_pos=2&_sid=379e08dba&_ss=r

 

[South Texas 97]

Yup, I saw that, for now prefer to spend that on shocks. A 4x8 3mm ribbed rubber sheet was 45usd. Should be good for now

 

[South Texas 97]

The PO made up a tailgate that was bolted in. I have repurposed it with some hinges and a couple of over center clips. The clips are too small, and the hinges are pretty rough, I will clean them up a bit and make them look a little more Toyota like. The pins are removable, which is a plus . Still quite a bit to do, but it’s drivable.

Reinstalled the seats and mounted 3 point seatbelts

 

[South Texas 97]

Time to get it started!
did lots of reading and watching YT university, picked up a cheap remote starter, charged the battery,
found the BB on the flywheel, PO had put a white paint dot on it.
used the method of jacking up the right rear wheel and 4th gear to turn the engine to find the timing mark.
took off the distributor cap to find this, no wonder it would not start And was backfiring through the carb.

the rotor was 180 degrees off. Fixed that, making sure the distributor seated properly.
checked the dwell with a digital meter, it wobbled a bit but 42-43 degrees seems to be within spec.
took the valve cover off to check valves on cyl 1 we’re both closed. Very clean under there, and lots of oil.

Replaced the plugs and did a cold compression check, will do a proper check once I have been driving it for a while.

Denso IW16TT replaced some crusty Autolites. The carbon plug are due I think to trying to start with the wrong timing.

 

[South Texas 97]

Now that the timing is about right, moved on to the carb. The PO had installed a Holley 2 barrel 7448. It probably needs a refresh, but did a bunch of reading and seems there are only a couple of key things, float level and idle circuit.
However, in the process of checking the float level I dropped the screw and could not find it anywhere

Grrrr ordered a couple of replacements, most annoying all for the want of a shop towel under the carb. Lesson learned

 

[middlecalf]

Got one of those extending antenna magnet thingys? If not, get one, you’ll be amazed at what ferrous stuff (missing screws for instance) you‘ll find in/around the engine compartment and frame.

 

[South Texas 97]

Thanks @middlecalf but the screw is brass…..

 

[South Texas 97]

While waiting for brass screw, added a couple of extra sockets.

the perfect place, and if a future owner wants their ash tray back, it will be in a box of parts.