Builds 76 FJ40 in South Texas (3 Viewers)

[South Texas 97]

Back at it after 6 weeks with a new grandson in Boston, and a 3,000 mile motorcycle ride from Texas to the Blue Ridge Parkway and back.
got some parts for the Holley Carb. It had been pretty abused by the PO. replaced some screws and seals and new gaskets.

accelerator pump rubber was good, no cracks and still flexible

not sure what they scraped this with but gave it a good soak in carb cleaner. The float was ok, although the needle valve oring was hard as a rock.

Replaced the gaskets with new from Holley and set the float level so gas was just dribbling out of the sight glass. Set the idle screws at 1.5 turns from closed. This let me start the truck and get it running.
First time outside in awhile.

in the wild. Well at least at the tax office getting title transferred to Texas.

 

[South Texas 97]

While outside the home made tailgate from the PO was modified from a bolt in tailgate to a drop-down with the addition of some hinges and over center cam latches. Not perfect but does not rust anymore and no rattles when driving

After some driving around noticed some seeping around the radiator top. It stays around 160 or thereabouts so the system is working. Rather than attempt to patch it up, and given the Texas summer heat, will order up a 4 core. Hoses have all been replaced already

 

[South Texas 97]

Changed/replaced all my instrument cluster lights with LED's. I bought new bulb holders as well. Biggest thing was to remember to disconnect the battery before removing the cluster, so as not to short the ammeter, and then remembering to reconnect it.

Bought them at reasonable prices from Superbrightled.com
They work well and are dimmable.
2 Green for turn signals
1 Blue for High Beam
2 White for Instrument cluster/speedo lighting

WLED 5-LED wide angle 12V wedge type 194/168. Picked up some bulb holders as well. Will keep the old ones and old bulbs for spares.

they are a tight fit in the back of the cluster, have to angle them in through the hole.

They work well and dim nicely.

Added a tail light bar. it sort of works. When I rebuilt the rear harness, I added a trailer pigtail and a 12 volt line

 

[Yoda]

Yours is looking good! Just discovered my project 76 does not have ANY wire harness. Just bought an old OEM one, and it needs some repair (I was an auto electrician years ago, so it is within my comfort zone). My brother is in Brownsville, couldn't be any further south than him. I'm near Seattle.

 

[South Texas 97]

I'm just south of Houston with one son in Boston and the other in Seattle - lots of opportunities for road trips. So far 1 ride by motorcycle and two 97 Land Cruiser trips to Seattle.

Will you do a reproduction harness (follow the Toyota diagrams, or go with a painless style harness?

 

[South Texas 97]

Just got my classic plates and Texas title.
added some new shocks (Bilstein all around) and some bling.

The Bling is an LED light bar. when I rebuilt the rear harness, added a pigtail for a trailer plug, and a reverse light and 12v just in case.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Enjoy your thread. Just wanted to toss this out Ref: the orientation of the your new shocks. On a monotube shock, the piston can be used up or down. Most cases it’s better down, (like on race cars which use monotubes) So Bilstein, KYB engineers and others use this design with the piston in the down position (boot down). You can’t do that on a twin tube low pressure (1960’s tech) design.

On the Bilstein, with the boot down, there are 2 or 3 small holes to let any moisture or condensation to drain out. when The boot is up there is no mechanism for this. Regardless, as a mono tube, they will function in either orientation. Lastly, you know the marketing guys would put the logo up so it’s readable.

 

[South Texas 97]

Thanks good feedback. I debated that and looked at various forums. Will upend them in the near future.

my new 4 core radiator and water pump arrived. Figured if I was going to replace the radiator might as well do the other wet bits as well.
As usual coolant everywhere, like a cow p*ssing on a flat rock.….. when you open the petcock on the bottom of the radiator.

removing the radiator one of the side supports was not welded to the base. Just as well it is being replaced.
This gave me lots of access to the alternator bracket, which was removed to give better access to the hoses. This truck has the oil cooler, so a few extra hoses.

Picture to help me get the hose routings correct at reassembly. All hoses are new. Everything looks pretty clean, not a lot of rust or buildup inside as far as I can see.

the only issue seems to be the lower housing that has some corrosion.

was able to order the bolts and lower housing on Toyota parts deal for a reasonable price
water pump bolts. 4 x 91212-41040
washers 4 x 94512-01000
thermostat lower housing 1 x 66331-10040
bolts lower housing to engine 2x 91611-41025 replaced by 91612-61025
bolts upper housing to lower 2x 91611-40845

looks like the upper housing with the oil cooler outlet is NLA, so will refurb what I have.

 

[South Texas 97]

Well, while I was in there….. cleaned up all the radiator adjacent bits, and added some tabs on the splash guard under the fan belt.

Will derust everything and a coat of POR15. Satin black top coat, and I can put it all back together.
quite a bit of rust under several layers of paint.

 

[RevISK]

Well, while I was in there….. cleaned up all the radiator adjacent bits, and added some tabs on the splash guard under the fan belt.View attachment 3482825
View attachment 3482827View attachment 3482830View attachment 3482831
Will derust everything and a coat of POR15. Satin black top coat, and I can put it all back together.
quite a bit of rust under several layers of paint.

Nice work.
Pardon my ignorance but what are the tabs for?

 

[MAR FJ40]

Nice work.
Pardon my ignorance but what are the tabs for?

Should be where the shield is bolted to the frame. I assume he hasn't drilled out the bolt holes in the tabs yet.

 

[South Texas 97]

Correct, the front of the splash guard is under the radiator support bracket, and the two tabs are to bolt to the frame. I have yet to drill the holes.

 

[RevISK]

Ah, now it makes sense.
Thanks

 

[South Texas 97]

Well, found a good deal on a Holley 2 barrel Sniper kit over thanksgiving.
Plan is to have an in tank pump. Found a couple of good threads on installing an in tank pump
This one - and this one from @B y r o n

this will be a longer term project, probably March/April next year.

 

[South Texas 97]

In preparation for the in tank fuel pump for the Sniper, the pax seat needs to be raised a bit to clear the pump flange and fittings.
bought some longer bolts M12 x1.25 for the rear mounts x2 and M8 x 1.5 for the front mount x 4 and some hex spacers 1.25 inches.
in addition I have wanted to give myself more space with the drivers seat. Based on several designs especially @Economist LC76 , I bought some 3/4 x 1 1/4 rectangular tube, and after quite a bit of head scratching removed the bolts and two rivets holding the seat to the sliders. Cut a clearance for the sliders and drilled some holes, and some access holes to bolt things down. The result is 3/4 of an inch higher and 2 inches back. Very nice and feels comfortable.

figuring out the order of operations was interesting sort of a back and forth from one end then the other until all are installed.

The end result is quite seamless. It is not obvious at all. Thanks @Economist LC76 !

 

[South Texas 97]

Finished up preparing the various bits of sheet metal for the radiator surround, the fan shroud and the splash guard under the radiator. Took them back to bare meta, derust, two coats of POR15, and a satin black top coat. Just waiting on some bolts and thermostat bottom housing to get it all back together

 

[South Texas 97]

While waiting on parts, went ahead and picked up new battery and ground cables from @Fourrunner . Amazing quality and quick delivery. Some wire wheel work and dilectric grease to ensure good contact And we are good to go.

 

[77mustard40]

40 is looking good man, I have those cables for the 80 and need to do the same for the 40!

 

[RevISK]

40 is looking good man, I have those cables for the 80 and need to do the same for the 40!

I put them on my 40 and they really seemed to wake her up. Need to put them on the 62

 

[South Texas 97]

Well, finally got my thermostat lower housing and bolts from Toyota. I refurbed the thermostat top housing as this truck has the oil cooler, and the top housing is NLA from Toyota. Put it all together with my four row radiator for south Texas summer heat. buttoned everything up, and it leaked like a sieve. Pretty basic mistake

Drained out more coolant and put the right gasket with some FIPG.
could not find a spec for the water pump or thermostat housing to block or top to bottom thermostat housing. did some searching and came up with 30 lbft for the bolts into the block and head, and 13 lbft (153 in lb) for the top to lower housing which is aluminum.
Will leave it overnight and top up coolant tom and seat it up to burp the system.

picked up a new heavy duty fan from City Racer.
putting the radiator in, all the bolts for the radiator frame were loose, got the radiator in and aligned vertically and then tightened everything up.