Chungas Revenge
SILVER Star
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How much more cow bell are you talking? Second, aren't those fog lights mounted too far back?
That's a pretty big range of cowbell. Are you a diesel fan at all? There are several diesel options. Lots of petrol options. The LS v8 is a very solid route. If all my vehicles had LS motors my life would be easier. Another petrol motor you could think about is the atlas gm i6 they put in the trailblazer. Certain years used the LS engine ecu. They make good power-300tq, 300hp. Im surprised I've never seen one in a 40.I’m in the ciphering stage = TBD. LS is the easy button and sky’s the limit for HP options, ease of replacement parts, Maint etc etc. Happy Primate sounds
Other = Anything Uncle Yota made that’s compatible to include 2F upgrades (Mosley) Gotta admit I really like the Yota heritage of the 1FZ under the hood. I want to keep the stock 4spd/Tcase if/where possible.
I have 3:70 gearing and 285 tires for a pretty decent rubber overdrive. If I pop out on I95 south between Jacksonville and Daytona, I want to be able to hang comfortably in the slow lane without getting Busch Light cans tossed at me for creeping along at 65.
So, I’m letting it simmer for now to see what floats to the top of the great idea puddle.
Yes, the fog lights are in a rear mounted position. Mounting a Warn Zeon later this summer. Using that as a decision point for the permanent fog light location.
I think the key is to do what works best for your personal use with your budget hp per dollar. Don't do whatever impresses others as i assume you won't be flipping this 40 for a while. You can go drive/ride various stock or swapped vehicles that have the motor your thinking about. When people follow that recipe it usually turns out pretty cool anyway. My 2 cents for what its worth anyway. Yes the atlas does make torque right off the bat because it has dual variable valve timing.@White Stripe
I just had the “diesel option” on the table Friday night. Had a good discussion and a cold snack with the local shop owner.
Gas side: I like the 4.8 as a contender too. Not too big not to small. Easy on the wallet, maint, parts Yada yada.
I’ll look at the Atlas as an option. 300/300 are solid numbers if it makes the tq down low.
300 ponies is at the very top of my acceptable zone. IMHO, for what I’ll be using it for, 225-250 hp is in the zone. But, I’ll have to see how this plays out. Don’t want to get too crazy. Especially if the House Frau will be driving. Something about a fresh pedicure that causes her right foot to put on 50lbs.
For now, I’ll chug along w/the 2f and see what falls in my lap…
You can go drive/ride various stock or swapped vehicles that have the motor your thinking about.
A prayer for your cooling system:The Mule launches an insurrection.
I sense a gorilla/guerrilla campaign in the making. Going to change the name as of today to Che’. Let it be written, let it be done..
OE rad is loosing Yota Red/Pink @ <500 miles after installation. Gotta put this on hold until I can get a rad pressure test on it. I have a kit somewhere. Good news it’s in one of three storage blds. Shouldn’t take long to find.
No visible leaking while sitting in the BG (Thank God), I’ll put it under pressure and see if I can pin point the issue. Best case it’s not the Rad. Worse case it’s not the Rad…
Spread thin at the moment with a Honey do list that spans two and a half decades (Long, long long story)…
@MatthewMcD I knew you would appreciate the irony.
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A prayer for your cooling system:
Let it be a hose clamp.
Let it be a hose clamp.
Let it be a hose clamp.
Let it be a hose clamp.
Dear Lord, Let it be a hose clamp.
Amen
A constant state of pessimism and a healthy dose of "WTF NOW?" has gotten me through this project.I’m remaining cautiously pessimistic.
Finally, the donkey got dirty!
Since the whole conversion hinges on the availability of a 10mm wrench, you may want to invest in this set for cheap insurance.I’m recovery nicely from yesterdays cheeseburger/potato salad induced coma.
Wanted to show some of the details on the Columbian, Canadian Japanese kluge Ambi doors. 1st pic shows where the TROA section (top) was cut off a mated to an L bracket for mounting to the lower doors. Next, vertical stabilizers were added for rigidity and to prevent flexing/moment (for engineering nerds). 10mm’s holding everything in place. Takes about 5 minutes to remove. End state = I get a functional convertible ambulance door.
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