'75 FJ40 4.3 Vortec/4L60E Swap

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FJ-Dave what was the reason for moving it back? is that so you could keep the normal radiator position and have clearence, or was it due to gear stick placement within the cab? or a bit of both?
Not so much gear stick placement (have plenty of adjustment there) more radiator position and rear drive shaft length. I copied Texican's placement in his 4.3 TBI build on here.

Speaking of radiators...

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You gotta love it when you get home from work and FedEx or UPS has left a gift for you.
 
I've made a lot of progress but haven't had time to post up pics lately.
While waiting for my harness and ECM to get back I installed the TPI offroad Saginaw power steering kit, it's a well made kit, no problems with the install. Had to rework the steering box ends of the stock pressure and return hoses to fit the saginaw bow.
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On to plumbing, got a Carter P5000 Fuel Pump and a high pressure filter from Summitt, this year Vortec needs a min. of 71 P.S.I. the P5000 is good for 100 P.S.I., the regulator is internal on the intake.

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The transmission cooler lines were simple but had to be rerouted for my new radiator which has the flow and return ports horizontally at the bottom of the radiator instead of vertical as they were stock.

I sent my ECM to www.lt1swaps.com to have it reflashed. The guy's name is Brendan , he was very helpful and has a great website with tons of wiring information to share. I had the VATS (vehicle anti-theft) removed, deleted the 3rd 02 sensor that is after the catalytic converter on the stock setup, and had the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) setup for my gear ratio and tire size. Brendan gets $75.00 (return shipping included) to do the reflash.
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I read a lot about reworking my own harness and although there are a lot of people who tackle it without any problems I finally decided to send mine to Current Performance Current Performance Wiring LT1, LT4, LS1, LS2, LS7 Engine Wiring Systems in New Port Richey, FL, to have it modified for stand alone. The guy's name is Jared and does a ton of wiring harness builds and modifications for the Chevy S10 and hot rod crowd. The price was $375.00 to modify my harness to my specs. Here is is laid out when I got it back home...
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Current Performance adds fuses and relays for the stand alone functionality ...
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Then they leave you the seven wires that need to be connected for everything to work. They are; 12 volt switched (on in start and run) to power the ECM and the relays, Check engine light, Electric speedo feed, Tach feed, Backup lights feed, Brake Switch -Torque Converter Lockup (this gets wired through a relay to the stock FJ40 brake switch to tell the torque converter when to lock/un-lock, more on this later), and Fuel pump feed.
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I also got the exhaust all figured out and fabbed up (no pics yet), had a tough time getting the 02 sensors in a place where they wouldn't interfere with anything, then went with a Magna Flow 2 1/4" muffler flowing to a 2 1/4" tailpipe dumping out in the stock location.
I've got some more wiring to finish up and hope to do lots of little odds and ends during the week so I can fire it up for the first time next weekend.
 
you might consder running one of the GM fuel filters off something like a 99 GM pickup or SUV. Very common filter (made for that application) and easy to find most anywhere.
 
VSS HELP

Then installed the T/C adapter to fit the VSS, with this kit it is centered over the stock reluctor ring and must be set to an air gap of .010" to .012".

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This is the new VSS,
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Where did you get the information about the gap for the VSS?

I ask because I am having a problem with my 4L60E, in setting shift points using a TCI's TCU. My speed on the laptop drops off when I am coasting, but when under accel it works most of the time. I set my air gap to .035. So, I think this explains my problem.
 
Elbert
you might consder running one of the GM fuel filters off something like a 99 GM pickup or SUV. Very common filter (made for that application) and easy to find most anywhere.

I tried to use the stock GM unit but it's pretty big and I ws limited for space.

LQ9 4D

VSS HELP
Where did you get the information about the gap for the VSS?
I ask because I am having a problem with my 4L60E, in setting shift points using a TCI's TCU. My speed on the laptop drops off when I am coasting, but when under accel it works most of the time. I set my air gap to .035. So, I think this explains my problem.

I got my info right out of the Advance Adapters instructions for my adapter p/n 50-0407A, page 2 of 4. I set my VSS clearence before I mounted the adapter, but you should be able to screw it in (carefully) till it bottoms on the rluctor ring (0.00) then with very small increments back it out till your problem goes away, just an idea.
 
Mine is JB welded in. So my transfercase is coming off so i can see the reluctor wheel on the output shaft in order to set the gap correctly. The paper work that came with my adapter plate specifies it to be .040 to .030. I set it at .035
I will set it closer at .010-.012 and let you guys know what I found.
 
Mine is JB welded in. So my transfercase is coming off so i can see the reluctor wheel on the output shaft in order to set the gap correctly. The paper work that came with my adapter plate specifies it to be .040 to .030. I set it at .035
I will set it closer at .010-.012 and let you guys know what I found.

Downey told me that was to be set at .010, so that is what I set mine at. Havent run it yet as Im still building, but curious about the out come.
Why did you JB weld it in place? Its a good idea, but Im just curious as I as concerned with it coming loose as well. The other thing that got me concerned is that reluctor ring...Nit too crazy about that just being CLAMPED on the out put.
How are you gonna hook up to the electric speedo? Does that just jump off the VSS somehow?
 
FYI... I'm not sure how important the air gap is... I have somewhat of a similar setup..except mine is a 5.7 Vortec and I use the downey VSS adapter that mounts to the rear of the transfer case, and it uses a GM VSS (I thnk the same pN off what fits the engine 1999). Anyway ...I installed mine by bottoming it out and then backing off just a little bit. It has worked fine, I've never had an issue wiith it. I got to looking at it when I installed it and was trying to figure out how you could check the air gap to start with and just gently bottomed the sensor out..then back up just a little bit. Might help ...
 
FYI... I'm not sure how important the air gap is... I have somewhat of a similar setup..except mine is a 5.7 Vortec and I use the downey VSS adapter that mounts to the rear of the transfer case, and it uses a GM VSS (I thnk the same pN off what fits the engine 1999). Anyway ...I installed mine by bottoming it out and then backing off just a little bit. It has worked fine, I've never had an issue wiith it. I got to looking at it when I installed it and was trying to figure out how you could check the air gap to start with and just gently bottomed the sensor out..then back up just a little bit. Might help ...

I used a feeler gauge...
 
Yeah my downey instructions (revised 03/06) told me to use an epoxy and set it at .040(.030 minimum, .050 maximum). I dont have threads on my sensor or in the housing..so I had used good ol JB. My 40X reluctor ring is also bolted on the output shaft..it seems kind of sketchy.

I am using different gauges and I found out that I couldnt split that signal(to the guage and to the TCU), or at least it wasn't working for me. Maybe due to the gap being too far the PWM was not strong enough to read.

Anyways I ended up using a different pick up (8X) for vss to the gauge off of the stock tranfercase speed cable.
 
03-21-11 09:51 PMchicagoQuote:
Originally Posted by LQ9 4D
Mine is JB welded in. So my transfercase is coming off so i can see the reluctor wheel on the output shaft in order to set the gap correctly. The paper work that came with my adapter plate specifies it to be .040 to .030. I set it at .035
I will set it closer at .010-.012 and let you guys know what I found.

Downey told me that was to be set at .010, so that is what I set mine at. Havent run it yet as Im still building, but curious about the out come.
Why did you JB weld it in place? Its a good idea, but Im just curious as I as concerned with it coming loose as well. The other thing that got me concerned is that reluctor ring...Nit too crazy about that just being CLAMPED on the out put.
How are you gonna hook up to the electric speedo? Does that just jump off the VSS somehow?
I've got the advance adapters kit that leaves the stock 4L60E reluctor ring in place so no clamp on for me. My harness modifications included a feed wire from the ECM (off of the VSS signal) to an electronic speedo.

03-21-11 10:31 PMchicagoQuote:
Originally Posted by Elbert
FYI... I'm not sure how important the air gap is... I have somewhat of a similar setup..except mine is a 5.7 Vortec and I use the downey VSS adapter that mounts to the rear of the transfer case, and it uses a GM VSS (I thnk the same pN off what fits the engine 1999). Anyway ...I installed mine by bottoming it out and then backing off just a little bit. It has worked fine, I've never had an issue wiith it. I got to looking at it when I installed it and was trying to figure out how you could check the air gap to start with and just gently bottomed the sensor out..then back up just a little bit. Might help ...

I used a feeler gauge...

Ditto, feeler guage.

03-21-11 11:17 PMBennettWhat motor mounts did you use... I missed it
I used Downey motor mounts
 
Here's my V6 going in, It's running now feels like lots of power.

Where'd ya stash the battery?
What'd ya use for the throttle cable and how'd ya run it off the pedal?
 
Very nice!
Thanks for the pics!
Was it the stock throttle cable?
 
I spent yesterday figuring out the ECM and wiring harness placement, first I needed to make sure that thing was going to run. I only needed to temporarily connect the 12v feed for the ECM, the fuel pump feed from the ECM, the TCC - torque converter lock up signal, and the check engine light.
For the TCC I used a standard 12v 40 amp Bosch style 5 prong relay.
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The wiring goes like this (these relays have standard numbered contacts) #86 to ground, #30 to 12v (hot on in run/start) # 87 not used, #87a to the ECM signal wire, and #85 to the wire on the stock FJ brake switch that goes to the brake lights (green with yellow on my '75). I made a small bracket and mounted it near the fuse panel.
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With that done it was time to see if she'd come to life. I cycled the fuel pump with the key to prime it while purging the air from the lines at the fuel rail, hit the starter and it came to life in less than three revolutions! It had a high idle for about 20 seconds and then settled right into a low purr. Best part is not a single trouble code on the ECM. I have a video of it running to post but can't figure out how to do it, any help?
 
Side Track

A quick "side track", last week I had to travel to Green Bay on business and was on the highway driving by Bill Lemieux Toyota and saw a red FJ40 upstairs in their showroom. I had some time to kill before my flight and decided to stop and take a few pics and see what the story was. I went into the dealership and a nice gentelmen said hello and asked how he could help, I introduced myself, told him I was an FJ40 enthusiast, that I'd seen the red one from the highway, and asked if I could take some pictures. He gladly agreed and began to take me upstairs, half of the showroom was filled with vintage Toyotas. Incerdible cars from the late 60s and early 70s, every model you could imagine, there was even a vintage bi-plane hanging from the ceiling and several vintage air cooled VWs. As we got upstairs I commented that the owner was quite a collector, the man informed me that he was, and that I was talking with the owner, Bill Lemieux.
The red FJ was a '75 (same as mine), Bill had sold it new back then to the original owner who put 50k miles on it over the years and sold it back to Bill for his collection a couple of years ago. The pics aren't great (from my IPhone) but the truck was outstanding and Bill looks proud next to his land crusier (that's an old Piper Cub behind the truck). Bill is a really good guy and took the time to let me ogle the FJ. We talked old cars for a while, he let me take some pictures and I went on my way. If you're ever in the Green Bay WI area you gotta stop in and see his collection.
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