'75 FJ40 4.3 Vortec/4L60E Swap

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Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Threads
8
Messages
81
Location
Jupiter, FL
Started my FJ projects with an earlier thread, I decided to start this new thread to detail the drive train swap. Here is the earlier thread with my introduction.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/390240-75-fj40-first-project.html

To ward off the stock Nazis and ultra purist hatred all I can say is that I don't intend to ever sell this rig, it will never be wheeled or crawled, it will live a life of weekend drives along the beachfront and an occasional car show. Building and fabricating are my hobby and will do all of my own work on the swap.

Here's how it sits today; rust free from Arizona, it's got a rock solid 2F, Weber carb. and headers, stock transmission and transfer case.

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The donor vehicle was a super low mile 2wd 2002 Silverado pickup. I got the Vortec, 4L60E, ECM, and complete harness.
I read everything I could on here about these swaps on here and chose this combination based on reliability, performance, and ease of install. I'm sure I'll have lots of questions along the way.

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I'll begin the tear down tomorrow.
 
What's the reason for the swap if the 2F is rock solid and you don't seem to need the extra power for any of the driving you will be doing in it?
 
pictures?

thinking of doing same swap (only 5.7 vortec ) in my 72 any pics showing set up on frame during swap ?
 
misterpepper What's the reason for the swap if the 2F is rock solid and you don't seem to need the extra power for any of the driving you will be doing in it?
My wife asked the same question, actually I have been building vintage cars for a long time, I know nothing about electronic fuel injection and really want to learn about it. I've read the reviews from others that have done this swap and have heard some really good things.

raidermock72 thinking of doing same swap (only 5.7 vortec ) in my 72 any pics showing set up on frame during swap ?
No pictures yet of the mock up, I'll post them up as I soon as I get there.

Got the 2F and old old drive train ready to come out today...

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I just completed a Vortec 5.3 to a 4L60e with a Orion transfer case. put a duel battery tray behind the back seat.
I did a complete rewire using sources panels.
I am just about finished with the dam thing, 2 years of work. it is a lot harder that it looks and takes up all your time. still trying to figure out where to put the water sensor. there is a plug on the passenger side head that can be removed but it is a metric thread and Autometer only carries pipe thread. Littel s*** like that takes so much research it is unbelievable. the other issue is I am trying to get a wiring diagram for teh PRINDL which is the little black box on the Transmision. from that i should be able to connect my Lokar display for the shifter, but i can not find a diagram anywhere. if you have questions on any issues I may have figured them out already. I rebuild my dash and put in ARB like switches where the radio used to be.
if you need to contact me I am at FJ40_Landcruiser@cox.net
 
want to sell your header
Sold it with the motor and transmission.

I rebuilt my transfer case today, got the rebuild kit from CCOT, nice quality stuff, followed the FSM and everything went well. Here's the question, the previous owner (or someone) put gasket goop all over everything, both sides of all the paper gaskets. Do I need to use any gasket sealant at all on this transfer case? The gaskets seem to be good quality. Thanks.
 
New way to get a temperature sensor in the motor 5.3 wortec

i just found the convertion plug I needed to install a water temperature sensor to the motor on the Vortec 5.3. I wiould imagine it is the same for the 4.3.
on the back of the passenger head there is this plug that can be removed with a allen key. once removed it is an M12 by 1.5 pitch. so the normal sensors will not fit. I found a connector that converts the metric to pipe. Parkers storeM12-1/4F8OHGS WORKS LIKE A CHARM.
 
Thanks again for the Vortec tips Mclement, these will come in handy I'm sure.

I should have used the search function on my last question, picked up the sealant today at the Toyota dealership P/N 00295-01281.

Here are a couple of random shots of the T/C rebuild from last night...
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And since I am waiting on parts (adapter, motor mounts, etc.) for the swap I got the firewall, inner fenders, bib, and underside of the hood all painted .
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I'll get the T/C all sealed up tonight.
 
keep me updated on your build. you can email me direclty if you think I can help at all. I am part of the AZLCA CLub(Arizona LandCruiser Association) and we have Dave Gore as a member. He is the one that builds all the 4Plus parts for Man-a-Fre. He make rediculous bulletproof parts. Dave is the one that did all the trick stuff on my rig. i hve 3 drive shafts. one to the rear and 2 to the front. I saw this on his rock crawler and just had to have it.
he make me a custom 1/4 inch power coated two piece skid plate that is out of this world. I will post pictures once i get my part done on the rig. I took a lot of ideas from others to get mine the way I wanted it. hopefully a few more weeks and I get to take her out after 2 years.
FJ40_landcruiser@cox.net
Marcel Clement
 
Got almost all of the parts in this week so it is time to get started, I got most of my swap components (adapters, shifter, radiator, motor mounts, etc.) from fellow Mud member Jim Downey. It was a pleasure dealing with Jim on this stuff and it was an extra benefit to pick his brain and get some of his tips.

I got the Advance Adapters 50-0470 kit for the 4L60E, it comes with two adapters, one to convert the 6 bolt hex (4L60E) tail piece to 4 bolt square (700R) and then the adapter to the 16 spline transfer case. It includes the new spud shaft, bearing, Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), and adapter plate for the 4WD selector.

First, so that the new 16 spline spud shaft can be fitted I removed the stock 4L60E tailpiece and measured from the back of the new hex-to-square adapter and cut the stock output shaft to 5.5", then filed the splines.
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Then installed the T/C adapter to fit the VSS, with this kit it is centered over the stock reluctor ring and must be set to an air gap of .010" to .012".

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This is the new VSS,
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Then pressed the new bearing onto the spud shaft.
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And then pressed the new spud shaft into the T/C adapter.
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On the right above is the 4WD shifter adapter bracket and part of the new Lokar shifter.
Here it is ready for the T/C to be installed. I hope to get it all into the rig tomorrow and work through getting the motor mounts and trans mounts welded in.
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have you figured out what kind of tranny crossmember your gonna use? I just did a 5.3/4l60e/3 speed xfer case swap in my fj40 and had to fab one up.
 
PAPAGOOSE have you figured out what kind of tranny crossmember your gonna use? I just did a 5.3/4l60e/3 speed xfer case swap in my fj40 and had to fab one up.
My kit came with the propeller mount, I'll probably use that for now, it won't be seeing any wheeling action, but I've got an idea for the skid plate that can include a cross member.

Here is the whole thing ready to go in, I got it in yesterday but the camera batteries died, I'll post up the shots of it sitting in place tonight.

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The engine fit nicely, I set it 1" to the driver's side and 13" back from the shock tower or 19" back from the front cross member. Had to trim the tunnel 1/4" right at the 4wd shift bracket.

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This is the first time I've tried Lokar's products. This shifter is high quality, the fit and finish are the best I've seen. It also has tons of adjust ability so it ends up right where the stock shifter was.

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Getting the PCM reflashed this week. Then on to plumbing and wiring.
 

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