74 FJ40 drum brake questions

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piecemeal

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I replaced the pistons on my rig all around and shoes, changed some of the stainless lines, adjusted the pistons, bled the brakes and quit for the night. When I came out the next day, the rear reservoir on the master cylinder was empty and there were no puddles under the truck. On top of that, the pedal is soft now. Did I not bleed the brakes good enough or do I have master cylinder issues?? The truck did stop prior to this, but pulled hard to the right. Help!!!!:mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
If you cannot see where the fluid from the MC went, it's possible it went into the brake booster, which is a very bad thing.:frown:

Separate the MC from the booster and see if it's wet back there. If it is, plan on an overhaul.

Best

Mark A.
 
If its not wet behind the master try bleeding the curcuit again,Ijust went through that thought it was a leaky master but wound up being air in the rear curcuit . Same simptoms as yours.
 
the very bad thing has come to fruition

there was about half a quart of fluid in the brake booster. So, I can assume that I'll need a new master cylinder and after I drain all of the fluid from the booster, Ill do a vacuum check to make sure the booster is still ok. Am I on the right track?? Also, cool cruisers has an after market master for $89?, do I need to buy an OEM (which is $250?) or will the after market work ok?? just checked napa.... $39 + $33(core)....anybody use one of these?? Also, how can one determine if the booster check valve is working with it off the truck?? Is is possible??

:confused::confused::confused::confused:
 
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I just got a master like the one you're talking about from Napa, but mine came from Checker. It doesn't have the plastic resevoirs on it. Unless you'res are re-usable, you might want to consider one of the other options.
 
there was about half a quart of fluid in the brake booster. So, I can assume that I'll need a new master cylinder and after I drain all of the fluid from the booster, Ill do a vacuum check to make sure the booster is still ok. Am I on the right track?? Also, cool cruisers has an after market master for $89?, do I need to buy an OEM (which is $250?) or will the after market work ok?? just checked napa.... $39 + $33(core)....anybody use one of these?? Also, how can one determine if the booster check valve is working with it off the truck?? Is is possible??

:confused::confused::confused::confused:
you can get an oem m/c from ralph hayes or cdan for about $60 less.
 
Thanks to all that gave feedback. Went on Eb*y motors and found new one complete for the bargain price of $76. Way better price than CCOT.
 

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