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Hope it's ok to resurrect this thread for 2023.
As others have found the Napa #819-5565 is different from the GSNI-5200-50. The 5200 is 15mm in diameter, the Napa part is 18mm. Just enough to not work.
I looked at the RV place folks mentioned and couldn't stomach the $10 shipping. Turns out they have them on Amazon: https://a.co/d/5tc48KZ $13.78 a piece.
For those of you who haven't followed all the steps, here you go.
Remove, disassemble, and clean the strut. Remove the spring. The new piston will replace it.
Thread the spacer with a 6mm x 1.0 tap and screw it onto the strut.
Cut the plastic off the gas piston end of the strut.
Test the length and cut the spacer down so the whole assembly fits inside the strut.
Cut the spacer to length. These are the two ends. The spacer marked for cutting.
View attachment 3404593
Here is the assembly ready for reassembly, the spring is shown for comparison.
View attachment 3404596
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly except for the spring. It is not used.
Reattach the strut to the door and frame and get going on the other strut. Here is the opening action. I am 5'7" tall, so it opens enough. You'll see me flex the door, but it is at max height. Even if you could open it higher, I think it would hit the rain gutter on the roof.
Hope this helps folks looking to preserve the original struts. I'll get them bead blasted at some point.
Cheers.
Hope it's ok to resurrect this thread for 2023.
As others have found the Napa #819-5565 is different from the GSNI-5200-50. The 5200 is 15mm in diameter, the Napa part is 18mm. Just enough to not work.
I looked at the RV place folks mentioned and couldn't stomach the $10 shipping. Turns out they have them on Amazon: https://a.co/d/5tc48KZ $13.78 a piece.
For those of you who haven't followed all the steps, here you go.
Remove, disassemble, and clean the strut. Remove the spring. The new piston will replace it.
Thread the spacer with a 6mm x 1.0 tap and screw it onto the strut.
Cut the plastic off the gas piston end of the strut.
Test the length and cut the spacer down so the whole assembly fits inside the strut.
Cut the spacer to length. These are the two ends. The spacer marked for cutting.
Here is the assembly ready for reassembly, the spring is shown for comparison.
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly except for the spring. It is not used.
Reattach the strut to the door and frame and get going on the other strut. Here is the opening action. I am 5'7" tall, so it opens enough. You'll see me flex the door, but it is at max height. Even if you could open it higher, I think it would hit the rain gutter on the roof.
Hope this helps folks looking to preserve the original struts. I'll get them bead blasted at some point.
Cheers.
I had to cut my spacer down, nearly in half to get it to retract far enough. I suspect you are still a bit too long. Can you reassemble the other one to original condition and compare the retracted length? I would think without the spacer it'll run too short not too long. You can probably thread a nut onto the strut that will keep the spacer from running up the rod.This one-banana is now at two bunches and climbing....
@MatthewMcD I'm following your directions and can't get the hatch to close more than this:
View attachment 3467885
I don't really understand the mechanism, so am banging my head a bit. The one deviation I made was accidentally drilling through the white plastic spacer (didn't have the perfect size bit) so it isn't screwed onto the strut; the end of the strut goes to the end of the spacer, and the spacer slides up and down the strut. Would that cause the issue?
I would think it would run too short as well, thus my confusion. I'll try to diagnose.I had to cut my spacer down, nearly in half to get it to retract far enough. I suspect you are still a bit too long. Can you reassemble the other one to original condition and compare the retracted length? I would think without the spacer it'll run too short not too long. You can probably thread a nut onto the strut that will keep the spacer from running up the rod.