71 FJ40 Frame Issue

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I’d swap in 4wheel discs before rebuilding stock brakes. Cost would be less for less future hassle.
 
I appreciate everyone’s comments. For the record I agree that eventually I need to get rid of the Jeep bumpers. :-)

Looks like I need to find someone else to work on this.
 
Lol, I kind of like the tubes so they may stay :-). This will just be a driver and will be far far far from original...
 
From my understanding yes but will ask further. I am being quoted around $10k to get it fixed.

You can check with Marshall or Stan either one and I would have no problem letting either one of them work on my 40. I am an extremely picky person and a perfectionist and I have no problem referring either one of these guys as they both do great work and have excellent reputations. Both these guys are complete Cruiser fanatics and their shops specialize in Land Cruisers.

Marshall at Trollhole's Cruisers in Mauldin / Simpsonville, SC
You can PM Marshal- @Trollhole
864-414-0563

Stan at Hardline Fabrication Services in Chesnee, SC
You can PM Stan- @NCFJ or email: HFS4x4@yahoo.com
864-590-0051
 
Thank you, I’ll look for someone closer in northern NC but if I don’t find anyone I will definitely look up these folks in SC.
 
The vehicle needs brakes (quoted $1500 for all 4 wheels), needs a clutch where they would also swap in a 4 speed transmission and transfer case that was given to me as part of the purchase (quote ~$2k) for that. All in all quote was for around $15-17k.

Looks like I need to find another shop. Any ideas within southern VA or NC?

Iron Pig might be an option for you as well.

Iron Pig Off Road

Out of curiosity, was the initial quote from an off-road or cruiser shop? Sounds like they don’t want to do it.
 
Yes, the quote was from an off road shop. I really liked the folks but as some have suggested maybe this is not a project they want to do at this time.
 
@matzell is down by Richmond and might have a recommendation.
Yes, I am in Richmond VA, about 3-4 hours from you. Lance at IPOR is another hour north. I am sure either of us could do it a lot less than they quoted you.
 
I understand people are running a business, but I don’t feel like they should fleece their customers. I’ve had some work I’ve paid more than I’d like for... but at the end of the day I want to feel I got a fair price... and I do.

I’ve known contractors who don’t want more work, so they quote high. If they get the work, you’re paying extra because they don’t really want it. There are others who aren’t overworked who’ll give you a fair price. Or those who are honest to the core who’ll give you a fair price, but you’ll have to get in line cause they’re in demand.
 
I understand people are running a business, but I don’t feel like they should fleece their customers. I’ve had some work I’ve paid more than I’d like for... but at the end of the day I want to feel I got a fair price... and I do.

I’ve known contractors who don’t want more work, so they quote high. If they get the work, you’re paying extra because they don’t really want it. There are others who aren’t overworked who’ll give you a fair price. Or those who are honest to the core who’ll give you a fair price, but you’ll have to get in line cause they’re in demand.

...or maybe they are not familiar with the vehicle, so they are quoting high so they don’t get burned.

Just because most of us have either done one or read enough threads about it to think we could do one in our sleep doesn’t mean a shop in VA working on an east coast rig can’t have nightmares about things like frozen body mounts, stripping 50 year old brake lines, burning 50 year old frame bushings out only to find the leaf spring pins still won’t release, taking on the liability of transferring over 50 year old steering linkage, yada yada.
 
True... and the last time I did one was 25 years ago also.

When I did it I was surprised how easy it was. I expected it to be much worse.
 
...or maybe they are not familiar with the vehicle, so they are quoting high so they don’t get burned.

Just because most of us have either done one or read enough threads about it to think we could do one in our sleep doesn’t mean a shop in VA working on an east coast rig can’t have nightmares about things like frozen body mounts, stripping 50 year old brake lines, burning 50 year old frame bushings out only to find the leaf spring pins still won’t release, taking on the liability of transferring over 50 year old steering linkage, yada yada.

This is exactly why I and @Jdc1 referred the OP to some of our own who run Cruiser shops that are not that far from him and are intimately familiar with all Cruisers. They know exactly what they are doing and what is involved in this process. You can lead a horse to the trough but you can't make him drink.:meh:
 
That is a right hand drive frame. I spoke with a guy who works there but never went down to look at anything they post. They have been importing parts and cruisers to the states for the past year or so. Most of the parts are right hand drive, drum axles, and in my opinion overpriced. One day I will make it down there to check out their inventory.
 
I have put up a post in the NC Cruiser group to see if I can someone local to go down to the shop to give me a second opinion. For sure over the next few weeks I will get it shipped somewhere else.
 
With a bad frame like that and it 's about that kind of money it might be better to move on and buy another FJ40 instead, keep this one as parts car or sell the parts.
 
Ok...I went and crawled under this truck earlier this morning.

Yes, it has some serious rust through at the rear (front side) spring hanger but IMHO it could be patched and replacing the entire frame isn’t only option.

Yes, patching it would be obvious (couldn’t hide it) and kinda funky looking (no need to make it back to 100% stock looking) but i see no reason it couldn’t be done and be safe.

I took my dslr camera but ended up taking pics with my phone...so they’re kinda crappy. It’s been a while since I crawled around under a 40 series with no lift and stock sized tires...it’s low!

The front half of the frame seems great and the rear 1/3 is way better then I’d expect based on the major issue noted above. The drivers side is significantly worse and would require more patching. The biggest challenge (in my mind) would be getting decent welds on the patch pieces depending on how high up the frame they end up being...I’m not a pro welder so this might be a non issue. Also would need to make sure the rear perch is reattached in the same place (suspension geometry, etc.)

Pics...
Drivers side:
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