spark plug tube seals and valve stem seals (pics please)? (1 Viewer)

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i was hoping to get a better understanding of these two issues. does anyone have any pics or technical information?
do i find both of them in the FSM in the mechanical chapter?
do spark plug tube seals get done when you do a valve stem seals get done when you do a head gasket?
i've got a couple videos i was looking at but was hoping for pics or a thread that has good pics.
THANKS
 
Spark plug seals are oil seals that are pressed into the valve cover and a logical time to change them is when you service the valve cover gasket. They get rigid and brittle over time so can break during removal, but it is no big deal. I press new ones in with an appropriatly sized socket and dead blow or ball peen hammer. This is DIY territory.

Valve seals are in the head. I've never done them on the 80, but you would remove valve cover, the camshafts and lifters, then replace them. I think the official way is after removing the head from the block. This thread shows a different DIY way to r&r them without removing the head from the block: LANDCRUISER 80 SERIES 1FZ FE VALVE SEAL REPLACEMENT IN THE TRUCK INCLUDES # 6 CYLINDER! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/landcruiser-80-series-1fz-fe-valve-seal-replacement-in-the-truck-includes-6-cylinder.1228555/post-13421080
 
if your going to do the valve stem seals in the truck youll need the tool to hook up shop air and pressurize the cylinders to keep the valves from dropping. youll still need to rotate the piston of whatever cyl your working on to tdc
 
thanks a lot gents.
anyone got any pics of the spark plug tube seals and where they are located or how they go in?
also, well once you get the valve cover off and please - well - i guess charlie is saying you would take the cams off and also the lifters? at that point - well presumably you did a compression check and inspected the cylinder walls and the rings with a borescope and - well and determined you didn't need "bottom end work"?
so you are doing a kind of cheat to get to the valve seals?
what are you leaving out when you do it this way? you leave out milling the head?
then sorry dumb question but are you also leaving out doing the head gasket? i mean you would do this sort of cheat if you knew it only needed valve seals basically?
 
Here's a video to get you oriented:



Try a search on the forum for other tips and tricks.

Big thing to watch for is to install the tube seals in the correct orientation, IME it helps to lube them with some silicone both for installation into the valve cover but also when you reinstall the valve cover to the head. Make sure the valve cover gasket doesn't fall out of the groove and get pinched when installing. I use silicone grease (dielecric or similar) to help hold it in place. FWIW.


Here's a video for the valve stem seals with the head off the engine:



Here's a video (no sound) showing valve stem seal replacement
with the engine/head in the vehicle:

 
IMG_0677.jpeg
 
thanks a lot gents.
anyone got any pics of the spark plug tube seals and where they are located or how they go in?
also, well once you get the valve cover off and please - well - i guess charlie is saying you would take the cams off and also the lifters? at that point - well presumably you did a compression check and inspected the cylinder walls and the rings with a borescope and - well and determined you didn't need "bottom end work"?
so you are doing a kind of cheat to get to the valve seals?
what are you leaving out when you do it this way? you leave out milling the head?
then sorry dumb question but are you also leaving out doing the head gasket? i mean you would do this sort of cheat if you knew it only needed valve seals basically?
yes, it is a "cheat" that avoids a ton of work taking off the head and replacing the head gasket. Cheat very well may equal smart work around when you don't otherwise need a head gasket or other work.
 
what are you leaving out when you do it this way? you leave out milling the head?
your leaving out a lot of work. your saving the time of pulling the head, replacing the brittle connectors that will break, checking the block and head for warpage, doing a bunch of "while im in there stuff" and it will take more time doing all of that.

now if the head had to come off for some reason so be it and do the seals with the head off but at the shop we would do them with the head on. also its a good time to check the valve clearance since youll be taking the cam out anyways, measure first then figure out what shim youll need when you pull the bucket and reinstall with the new shim
 

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