6BT/NV4500/HF2AV Build Thread - New Adapter

[Will Van]

Great build thread. Thank you for sharing. In your opinion, would a 2 inch body lift provide adequate clearance for the Cummins/nv4500?

With no suspension? I’d guess it would. I actually think 1” or even no body lift may be possible as well. Just depends where you put the motor.

FWIW I think several other members have done the swap without any body lift.

Builds - Dirty Koala Build - Cummins 6BT + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap

Builds - Lexus LX450 Cummins 6bt/NV4500 swap

 

[Mr Cimarron]

You will beat the trans tunnel a bit without body lift. The 1” body lift makes things easier. Also helps when running the short shift kit.

 

[Bearing Buster]

With no suspension? I’d guess it would. I actually think 1” or even no body lift may be possible as well. Just depends where you put the motor.

I’m planning to add at least a 2.5” suspension lift and was wondering if adding a 2” body lift would help me clear the bell housing enough to avoid having to cut or bend the transmission tunnel on the body.

 

[lostih]

I’m planning to add at least a 2.5” suspension lift and was wondering if adding a 2” body lift would help me clear the bell housing enough to avoid having to cut or bend the transmission tunnel on the body.

You certainly don’t need to cut the firewall. I didnt on mine and just used a 1” BL and was able to easily clearance where needed with a 3 lb mallet. Next I’m going to try no body lift.

 

[Will Van]

I’m planning to add at least a 2.5” suspension lift and was wondering if adding a 2” body lift would help me clear the bell housing enough to avoid having to cut or bend the transmission tunnel on the body.

You certainly don’t need to cut the firewall. I didnt on mine and just used a 1” BL and was able to easily clearance where needed with a 3 lb mallet. Next I’m going to try no body lift.

Has anyone had to cut the firewall for the swap? Where did you get that inclination? Not being a smartass, genuinely asking.

 

[Bearing Buster]

Has anyone had to cut the firewall for the swap? Where did you get that inclination? Not being a smartass, genuinely asking.

My inclination came from seeing others having to manipulate the firewall in areas around the bell housing. I don’t know if anyone has had to cut their firewall.

 

[Will Van]

My inclination came from seeing others having to manipulate the firewall in areas around the bell housing. I don’t know if anyone has had to cut their firewall.

I think all you have to do is “massage” the trans tunnel to clear the bulge on the bellhousing for the starter. This is for an auto, but the NV4500 should be similar.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I have one inch body lift and had no need to message the tunnel until I pulled the NV4500 for rebuild. There was one bellhousing bolt I couldn’t get a socket on and had to use a wrench. I marked the spot and hit it a few times with a hammer before reinstall. Made things much better.

 

[lostih]

As I recall my tightest clearance was actually on the passenger side.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

As I recall my tightest clearance was actually on the passenger side.

Yup. I believe it was the bolt at the 2 or 3 o'clock position.

 

[lostih]

Yup. I believe it was the bolt at the 2 or 3 o'clock position.

Indeed. Doing a ppump motor swap in another truck now and without a body lift I needed to thump the floor at exactly that position. Should work though

 

[lostih]

Hey everyone. I now stock the plates and shafts required for this conversion. First run of plates are $300 each and shafts are $350. PM for details. I am in process on building some bolt in motor mounts that will require no welding or frame modification as well.

 

[mjosoba]

Hey @lostih , you still a fan of the chev clutch bucket, or do you think you’d go a different route if you could?

 

[Will Van]

Once the pan was on and the engine back in I dropped the truck to the bumps to check out clearance.
View attachment 1479688

You can see in this pic that the draglink clears the pan in the front and the front diff clears as well. Fits superb in my opinion.
View attachment 1479689

This is a bad pic of draglink to pan clearance from the driver's wheel well:
View attachment 1479690

You can see its pretty much touching there. I will likely drop my bumps an inch or so to make sure things stay happy down there. I was pretty impressed with how well this engine fits though!

What did you end up doing for tie rod clearance to the oil pan? Did you just lower your bump stops?

 

[Will Van]

In the original post I mentioned that draglink clearance was going to be tight. Indeed it was more than tight at full bump. My motor is from a '92 Dodge 2500. I don't know if it was 2wd or 4wd but the pan sump was about an inch longer than some of the newer pans. I ended up buying a pan from cummins for $120. Offbrand ones on ebay were running $105 so this was great. Here are a few pics of the two pans.
View attachment 1479683

While it doesn't look like much...that my friends is enough difference in length to make it so I don't have to drop my bump stops!

View attachment 1479684

Here's the Cummins number for it 3949338:
View attachment 1479685

I don't know the stock application, but I think second gen trucks that are 4wd have a pan similar to this.

To change a first gen motor to use this pan you need to either replace the pick up tube or modify it. I chose to heat it and bend it as it is just tube. Here is a pic:

View attachment 1479692

BTW...getting off the glued on gasket that this motor had was a serious chore. Took an hour or more of scraping...not fun...

This build thread from @lostih has been immensely helpful for me, so I thought I would return the favor.

The oil pickup tube that matches the Cummins oil pan (3949338) referenced in the build thread is Cummins PN 3928455. It's from a 2nd gen Dodge application.

Hope this helps someone else.