65 swb fj45

[rockcod]

While we were removing the drive shaft, my son found the drive line bolts were spinning freely in the pinion flanges. This is prompting me to put a wrench on the entire truck. We had to remove the 3rd member because it was leaking between the axle housing and the drop out. I forgot to take pics but the ring and pinion looked brand new with very minimal wear. Since we were in there, we also installed new outer axle seals. The new rear bracket I got from Poser bolted right up, as did the new rotors (Poser has the centers machined to clear the axle ends). With the new calipers bolted in we called it a day. Still left to do on the rear axle is a new frame to axle braided line (see pic, pulled very tight), cut and flare brake lines and get new caliper braided lines.

 

[rockcod]

Went out to the garage after dinner and removed the old single circuit m/c. The firewall spacer I ordered will need some work to fit properly. And so the snow ball effect begins, the canister for the oil filter had to be removed so the booster would bolt to the spacer. I will now be running a remote mounted spin-on oil filter to relocate the filter away from the exhaust manifold and m/c area. The firewall rib interferes with the side of the bracket, not letting the booster to sit flat against it. I will either trim the rib or the spacer for a good fit. Once those issues are addressed I will need to lengthen the brake push rod.

 

[rockcod]

This morning I trimmed the firewall rib to clear the booster, so it now sits flush on the spacer. The original brake pedal shackle was cut to be used as my rod coupler (see pic), the old brake rod was cut down to 3" and the smooth end tapped to accept the pedal shackle.

 

[rockcod]

The end result..........all Toyota

 

[dmaddox]

You are where I'd like to be. It's hard not to be envious and jealous!!! Keep up the good work bud, I wish we could meet someday. That'd be cool (our trucks too!)

dallas

 

[rockcod]

Routing brake lines today. The rear frame to axle hose was seen better days, I guess after 44 years I got my moneys worth. The original rubber hose was pulled so tight I am surprised it did not snap. I replaced it with a SS braided line and made it 5 " longer.

 

[rockcod]

The front hard lines I made this morning. I used 10mm fittings from the m/c and re-used the 9mm fittings when they went into the factory tees on the frame. I routed the rear brake line along the firewall and down to the factory tee (still need to get a SS braided hose for it). Do you for see any problems running the line higher than the m/c???? The front hard line simply dumps straight down to the tee on the frame (is it too close to the exhaust i.e. heat?). I am open to suggestions, as I have not made brake lines inside the engine compartment before.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Do you for see any problems running the line higher than the m/c????

Bleeding? Would air not be trapped at the high spot and not able to get either to the MC or to the wheel cylinder? Though the front line has no alternative to going up first

PS - I am not a brake expert

 

[D'Animal]

I am pretty sure you should have some coils in the brake line to absorb vibration as well as the different flexing of the body and the frame.

 

[destin]

nice man

What color code red is your rig?

 

[rockcod]

I am pretty sure you should have some coils in the brake line to absorb vibration as well as the different flexing of the body and the frame.

Dan,

For the front brake line, I am thinking of puting a SS braided hose just for that reason.

nice man

What color code red is your rig?

destin,

The truck was repainted at some point. I am not sure what color red it is/was.

 

[fj40forlife]

Good to see your doing progress on the truck. Cant wait to see it closer. Hey want to do the hard lines on my axles while you do yours hahaha

 

[rockcod]

Oh how I love clean parts!!!! The axle will be going in next week. With the kids out of school and it has been hotter than hell outside, it has been a little difficult to get much done. After the brakes are done, I am converting the ignition to electronic.

 

[landcrusher909]

So thats what clean parts Look Like ! Nice Job Brother Now are your steel wheels going to work work the disk brake ?

 

[rockcod]

Oh Yeah!!!!

 

[dmaddox]

When you get ready to install the electronic ignition, remember the black/yellow wire coming out of your ignition loom from the firewall just below your hi-low linkage will need to be split and plugged into each of the two prongs on the green plug with the yellow/brown wires in it.

Here is the forum I started on that exact project so that when you get to that point, you can use this as a reference:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/292801-63-cruiser-getting-78-dist-ignitor-help.html

FYI, after upgrading to electronic ignition and putting 5psi through a electronic pump (removing and plating off the stock mechanical pump) my F-135 sprang to life! Runs and idles unbelievably well.

Later Tony,

Dallas

 

[rockcod]

Thanks Dallas!! I was using your thread as a guide

 

[rockcod]

So close to being done!!! I had 4 days at work and was able to finish the rebuild of the front axle. When I got home this morning, it was out with the old and in with the new. I just ordered (2) tie rod spacers to fit the FJ40 rod ends to the FJ60 steering arms. I still have to make 3 braided brake hoses, an alignment, bleed the brakes, bolt the remote filter mount down and then drive the piss out of the truck.

 

[rockcod]

Couple more pics.

 

[rockcod]

I got the FJ60 steering arms to FJ40 tie rod adapters in the mail. The tapers of the rod ends are the same, but the FJ60 rod ends are bigger in diameter. The spacers slide over the FJ40 rod ends taking up the difference, centering the rod end in the arm. Spector lists these as Hy-Steer tie rod adapters.