- Thread starter
- #221
Going to call them tomorrow. I use tom woods in the LS swaps i have done for everyone so far, and the one i got for mine is like not as nice.
60 Series Axle swap with the Trail Tailor Coil Conversion
- Thread starter dbbowen
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #222
Yall. These MF'n drive shafts should not be vibrating. The numbers dont lie.
This is the True ujoint operating angle variance across the vertical and horizontal plane of my compound angle driveline. 0.45 degrees of overall variance from tcase to pinion in the vertical and horizontal planes combined. s***. Is. Dialed. The max variance is 1 degree. Im well below it. Its got to be a bad ujoint or when dude welded my new tube on he did something wrong.
Heres where i pulled the data from
This is the True ujoint operating angle variance across the vertical and horizontal plane of my compound angle driveline. 0.45 degrees of overall variance from tcase to pinion in the vertical and horizontal planes combined. s***. Is. Dialed. The max variance is 1 degree. Im well below it. Its got to be a bad ujoint or when dude welded my new tube on he did something wrong.
Heres where i pulled the data from
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
No need to get a new driveshaft unless the slip yolk or spines are wore out. Worse case maybe pinion bearing could be damaged.
Pull the rear and throw in the front DS to verify it’s in that rear driveshaft or not
- Thread starter
- #225
Thats true, The one good thing that a new shaft would do is eliminate all parts of the driveshaft completely from the equation. Then if its still vibrating then its got to be the diff
I actually need to move over the part of the yoke that attaches to the diff on the front with my 60 series one. The bolt pattern is different. So im still running no font :/
chelo
SILVER Star
If you have an 80 or 100 series front drive shaft, remove the front 60 section and slip the 80/100 in.
- Thread starter
- #227
I was thinking of that but unfortunatley the front ujoint on my 80 driveshaft i have is absolutely smoked. The driveshaft has been sitting out in a field for a few years haha
- Thread starter
- #228
Welp. I found the source of my drive shaft vibration and it makes me want to jump off of a bridge.
The dude who lengthened my drive shaft at first loosened this dust cap on my slip yoke. My driveshaft uses Neapco ends and they have this thread on dust cap thing. It didnt vibrate before i took it to him because it was tight, he loosened it at some point and didnt retighten it. I didnt even know that it could be loosened or existed because toyota driveshafts dont use that.
Then when i took it to get balanced, no one noticed it was loose. I just so happened to hit my arm on it when i was under the truck running my ARB rear hose and felt it spin. I tightened it and 98% of my vibrations are gone. I think the remaining barely noticeable noise is because the ujoints are now worn out from spinning out of phase. Unfortunately i already ordered a new driveshaft from Tom woods and cant really return it because its a custom shaft so im probably going to just run it.
New driveshaft from tom woods has "1/4 ton" 1310 Ujoints and .120 wall tubing.
Old driveshaft has .134 wall tubing and 1350 "one ton" ujoints.
Unfortunately i think driving my old stout driveshaft so long unbalanced might have worn out the ujoints a bit so i guess ill run the smaller one and keep the stout one as a spare or something.
Silver lining is that i now know more about setting up driveline angles that i ever wanted to in my life, and my entire setup is completely dialed in
Here is the little collar that caused all of this bull****.
The dude who lengthened my drive shaft at first loosened this dust cap on my slip yoke. My driveshaft uses Neapco ends and they have this thread on dust cap thing. It didnt vibrate before i took it to him because it was tight, he loosened it at some point and didnt retighten it. I didnt even know that it could be loosened or existed because toyota driveshafts dont use that.
Then when i took it to get balanced, no one noticed it was loose. I just so happened to hit my arm on it when i was under the truck running my ARB rear hose and felt it spin. I tightened it and 98% of my vibrations are gone. I think the remaining barely noticeable noise is because the ujoints are now worn out from spinning out of phase. Unfortunately i already ordered a new driveshaft from Tom woods and cant really return it because its a custom shaft so im probably going to just run it.
New driveshaft from tom woods has "1/4 ton" 1310 Ujoints and .120 wall tubing.
Old driveshaft has .134 wall tubing and 1350 "one ton" ujoints.
Unfortunately i think driving my old stout driveshaft so long unbalanced might have worn out the ujoints a bit so i guess ill run the smaller one and keep the stout one as a spare or something.
Silver lining is that i now know more about setting up driveline angles that i ever wanted to in my life, and my entire setup is completely dialed in
Here is the little collar that caused all of this bull****.
- Thread starter
- #229
Now that i have the Drive shaft stuff figured out. Im finishing up the little small stuff. I finally connected my air hoses to my diffs and noticed when the diffs were locked the compressor was still cycling. The front works perfect. The rear.... has a leak inside the diff. Awesome. The guy who built my diffs is going to take care of it, but just more little stuff nickel and diming me haha.
The new suspension though... all good and its running great.
The new suspension though... all good and its running great.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Getting smarter always cost money
- Thread starter
- #231
man, you got that right haha
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
That how I felt that time I just glanced at the back flange and saw a bolt hanging out of a hole with another one missing. There was plenty of play.
Glad you got it straight!
Glad you got it straight!
Duuuuuuude. Equal parts frustrated and relieved?
Perfect. Definitely going to use that and not give you credit haha.
Idaho Savage
GOLD Star
Regardless, congratulations on working through it and think of it as increasing your baselineing of the truck!
- Thread starter
- #235
Hah thanks all. Ive got just the slightest remaining vibration im going to try and adjust out tonight but the overwhelming majority of it is gone. The tom woods drive shaft came in and i put it in. Here are the two shafts. Look pretty comprable
Also I threw some OME 2850 front coils on. These are 2 inch lift with weight and 2.5 inch lift with no weight "heavy" springs. These ended up giving me another half inch of lift up front or so over the .25 inch lift coils with the 1 inch spacer. So just under 2 inches of lift overall if it was on an 80 series plus the extra height the TT kit gives me. Ive got a bumper/winch, dual batteries and what not, but the 5.3 weighs significantly less than the 80 series motor so this was literally a crap shoot to figure out what height and weight i needed. Just got lucky on this one. I can pull in and out of my garage with about 1/8 or so inch clearance with this setup.
I think i can live with this front rake. It looks pretty much perfect. The rears are Medium springs so they should settle out more than the fronts id think.
Also fyi, in the future when you are measuring your lift height. you cant use the fender line for a measurment point. @Snicklephritz87 discovered that the front fender is like an inch taller than the rear.
Also I threw some OME 2850 front coils on. These are 2 inch lift with weight and 2.5 inch lift with no weight "heavy" springs. These ended up giving me another half inch of lift up front or so over the .25 inch lift coils with the 1 inch spacer. So just under 2 inches of lift overall if it was on an 80 series plus the extra height the TT kit gives me. Ive got a bumper/winch, dual batteries and what not, but the 5.3 weighs significantly less than the 80 series motor so this was literally a crap shoot to figure out what height and weight i needed. Just got lucky on this one. I can pull in and out of my garage with about 1/8 or so inch clearance with this setup.
I think i can live with this front rake. It looks pretty much perfect. The rears are Medium springs so they should settle out more than the fronts id think.
Also fyi, in the future when you are measuring your lift height. you cant use the fender line for a measurment point. @Snicklephritz87 discovered that the front fender is like an inch taller than the rear.
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tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I think i see why you have had a problem . The left drive shaft is your old one ?
- Thread starter
- #237
yep thats the old one.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
The side view looks awesome.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
The angles are mad worse by the flanges that extend out
- Thread starter
- #240
Ohhh I see what you mean! I didnt even think about that to be honest. the pivot being so far from the diff/tcase might have been bananaing my driveline haha
Thanks man! I dont think the trtuck has ever looked better!
