I'm thinking about something like that. I'd like to swap the front to coilovers eventually (assuming I keep the stock front suspension) and when that happens I'll see about bracing the shock towers to stiffen everything. In the interim I think this will be good enough.Sweet.
Are you going to need a cross over tube above the engine for additional stiffness?
That's a good idea! Too bad you're an hour or two late, I ended up just plasma cutting the correct size hole in the outer frame plates and then cutting a 0.25" oversize hole in the inboard plates and cutting out an overlay to cover up the oversized inboard holes. I like your idea a lot, using the tube as a guide is something I never once considered!Or use a hole-saw tube notching tool clamped to the fame to poke the holes thru one rail. Then slide a tube thru those holes across the other frame rail. Square up the tube and mark it's OD on the face of the un-drilled rail. Find that center and repeat the hole-saw notcher trick.
Kind of how I made these holes:
In my case I needed the plate to stabilize the saw while I was going thru the angled face.
With that kind of power, are you planning to install some sort of anti-wrap for the rear axle?
I'm thinking that it's not going to matter a lot because hooking it up will be the challenge. It amazes me just how little rear tire traction my basically stock '73 SB-SS C10 has. It requires two bags of sand in the bed, placed at the tailgate, to even be driveable in winter weather.
I suspected the fuel cell location was for that reason as I've been looking at doing the same thing with my '73. Should probably get the LM7 installed first.....
I'd plan on spending a bunch of time with CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) laying out a push-rod system. It's really easy to get geometry the behaves poorly and fairly hard to get geometry that works well. I'm told that 9% Rising Spring Rate is the ideal.