$50 bounty: Resolving "clack, clack" noise in drivetrain/suspension (2 Viewers)

[COYS]

Just this past week, I learned how to grease the u-joints and slip yokes with Valvoline Palladium. Drivetrain is tight as a drum again. I pumped the slip yokes and u-joints until grease started spilling out per the FSM. I read about hydrolock concerns, but my slip yokes had no problems passing grease after movement. I'll keep an eye on it.

Pre-grease work and post-grease work, what really prompted me to PM the shafts was an odd duck of a clacking noise.

I can sometimes only hear it with windows up, driving down in a gradual decline in a series of right turns in a tightish 5-10 mph parking garage. Today on a cold start driving out, it was quite a bit louder where I could hear the series of clacks (like solid iron hitting iron) with windows down and feel a light vibration under foot whenever it went "clack, clack, clack" as the car was in motion again at slow speeds going down the garage in a series of right turns. It's not fully consistent. A bit sporadic, but audible during the drive down the garage. Doesn't matter whether in D or N. After coming back home with the 1FZ fully warmed up, I tested it out again by going back down the garage. No discernable clacks at all.

So it doesn't happen all the time, but when it does which is often and often enough to bug the sht outta me, I can faintly hear & feel it kinda near the frontish area. All is Lexus LX 4 and a half smooth going up the p garage and in regular driving whatever the speed, turns, etc.

Anyone else experience something similar with a resolution?

 

[lp2k]

Sounds like a birfield possibly?

 

[COYS]

Sounds like a birfield possibly?

Pic of birfs.

Both axles, suspension rubber and brakes were fully refreshed <20-25K miles with OEM parts. Mine is 100% used like a Prius.

 

[Irish Reiver]

Have you checked the birfs for grease recently? I think the FSM calls for a 15k check. If they are a little dry they will click quite loudly. I typically give each birf 50 pumps with my grease gun at each service interval.

 

[ajax1]

That is a pic of your knuckle ball, which does look dry, the birf is inside. Pull the square plug check the grease

 

[MoJ]

Certainly no need to offer payment. This forum has a decade plus record of helping each other without monetary incentive.

 

[COYS]

My presumption is the birfs are not the source of the clack (not click) as it's quite loud at times, only seems to happen at slower speeds on a slow downhill roll, but couldn't hurt to add some grease if needed! Thank you.

Is this the cap I unscrew to check the grease level and refill with a grease gun?

 

[MoJ]

My presumption is the birfs are not the source of the clack (not click) as it's quite loud at times, only seems to happen at slower speeds on a slow downhill roll, but couldn't hurt to add some grease if needed! Thank you.

Is this the cap I unscrew to check the grease level and refill with a grease gun?

View attachment 2529618

Yes.

 

[midfat]

Hot tip. If you remove the ABS sensor (one bolt), you have a much larger hole to inspect the birf grease level. You’ll likely have to remove the tire if you want to physically look in the hole (vs the zip tie dip stick technique).

I agree that greasibg the birfs is an excellent first step. The slow speeds and lack of drive load as you coast downhill may well help to create an ideal situation to hear the birf clicking. Also, the sounds may well go away as the joint heats up and the grease redistributes.

 

[lp2k]

This is the problem-

pack with moly grease the birfield (both sides) and it’s the grey kind
Replace both spindles on each side, oem parts.
Drink plenty of water and take your vitamins
Doctors orders

 

[Nframe]

Maybe wear on the internal components (star, inner race).
Ever inspected the inside of the birfs?

 

[Broski]

My presumption is the birfs are not the source of the clack (not click) as it's quite loud at times, only seems to happen at slower speeds on a slow downhill roll, but couldn't hurt to add some grease if needed! Thank you.

Is this the cap I unscrew to check the grease level and refill with a grease gun?

View attachment 2529618

And what is it that makes you think it's not the Birfs, from what you described it the most common issue for many on the forum including me.
Funny you have on idea whats wrong but right away you doubt the people trying to help you.
FYI a knuckle job does not include any Birf repair other the a clean and regrease, rebuilding or replacing is additional work.

 

[I Lean]

Do you have wheels with center caps? I had what sounds like a similar problem that I could never identify, until I had a buddy stand outside while I drove slowly past. He kicked one of my center caps to seat it fully, and the sound went away.

 

[lp2k]

 

[COYS]

Update:

I just got my truck back for some cosmetic work and a full front axle refresh (again). Clacking noise is gonzo, but I think there's always been two noises.

Same scenario of driving down a parking garage turning right with a combination of light throttle to light braking and no braking to maintain parking lot speed. It's as if the drivetrain doesn't quite jive with the angle, vector and speed?

It's a lower frequency, interval based "thunk (.5 seconds) thunk... (.6 seconds) thunk... silent... (1 second) thunk" noise whether in D or N. Super annoying. I can't seem to recreate it going back up the parking garage or in daily driving scenarios. Rear OEM driveshaft 20K miles old. Front DC landtank unit with Koyo u-joints all recently greased. Tight as a drum. Memory tells me this noise started before I greased.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

How is the condition of your steering shaft grommet thing in the firewall. My 91 would make a weird clunk on cold mornings because the rubber in the grommet was deformed and it would be hard in the cold and clank on my steering shaft. It would always go away after a few minutes of driving and it seemed worse going downhill and turning. It took me forever to figure it out.


You might also want to check the control arm bushings and hardware