Clacking/Ticking- Metal in Pan (1 Viewer)

[ttmon]

94 FZJ80 265K. Had it about a month and slowly going through it. First 80 after a number of 100s. I know nothing about its history. Ran good except for a low idle (450ish) so I spent some time chasing vacuum leaks and what not. First start in the morning 9 out of 10 times would produce a couple seconds of clacking while the revs were high. Figured timing chain. Did an oil change with Mobile 1 0w40. Now the clack/tick shows up with some throttle - not super loud you can only hear it with the hood up listening for it. Dropped the pan and found what looks like aluminum and FIPG turds. Tomorrow I'll pull the valve cover, scope the bores and compression test just for fun. Please chime in if you got anywhere I should be focusing.

Oil pressure is fine. PO had an aftermarket gauge coming off a oil filter adapter that jived with the dash gauge.

 

[Kernal]

Could be the bottom end bearings, with the pan off you're in a good position to start pulling caps and check out the bearings??

 

[mudgudgeon]

100% agree with @Kernal now is the time to pull rod ends caps, and main bearing caps on the crank ( do crank bearings a couple at a time only so the crank is supported)

It's not looking good.
From the sound you describe, and what's in the pan, be prepared for toasted rod bearings and maybe crank bearings.

I had main bearings fail, and initially the noise sounded like an exhaust leak or vibration only at mid-high RPM.
A thousand miles later, the vibration was a knock, destroyed bearings, and a broken crank

 

[BILT4ME]

94 FZJ80 265K. Had it about a month and slowly going through it. First 80 after a number of 100s. I know nothing about its history. Ran good except for a low idle (450ish) so I spent some time chasing vacuum leaks and what not. First start in the morning 9 out of 10 times would produce a couple seconds of clacking while the revs were high. Figured timing chain. Did an oil change with Mobile 1 0w40. Now the clack/tick shows up with some throttle - not super loud you can only hear it with the hood up listening for it. Dropped the pan and found what looks like aluminum and FIPG turds. Tomorrow I'll pull the valve cover, scope the bores and compression test just for fun. Please chime in if you got anywhere I should be focusing.

Oil pressure is fine. PO had an aftermarket gauge coming off a oil filter adapter that jived with the dash gauge.

View attachment 3356664

View attachment 3356665

That looks like timing chain guide plastic and shavings of aluminum from the timing cover.

I wouldn't run it anymore until you get it torn apart.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Sad

 

[manofthewoods]

That looks like timing chain guide plastic and shavings of aluminum from the timing cover.

I wouldn't run it anymore until you get it torn apart.

I thought the same thing.
If so, "clean up on aisle..."

 

[ttmon]

I thought the same thing.
If so, "clean up on aisle..."

Hope you guys are right I guess. Pulled valve cover and top end is cleaner than expected. Ordered a better borescope to try and take a peek down the timing chain cover. From my googling anything behind the timing cover is a head off and preferably motor out situation?

 

[ttmon]

While waiting for the scope to be delivered did a compression test cause why not. All ~170 so hey at least that's good....

 

[ttmon]

Used my my old crappy scope and a flashlight to peak in the cylinders and they looked like this. WTF where did these shavings come from! Looked at the plugs and the PO had slathered them in anti-seize. So when you use a ton of anti-seize on your plugs, this is what falls into the cylinders. Fished most of it out with a magnet.

 

[Kernal]

AFAIK magnetic particles wouldn't come from anti-seize (edit: except nickel) or the aluminum head; ferrous metal (iron/steel) parts in that area would be components like some valve types and some valve seats (depending on composition), rings, cylinder walls, or spark plug threads/pieces, or something iron/steel that got ingested??

Did you save the engine oil to send off for analysis? Results might be interesting.

 

[ttmon]

AFAIK magnetic particles wouldn't come from anti-seize or the aluminum head; ferrous metal (iron/steel) parts in that area would be components like some valve types and some valve seats (depending on composition), rings, cylinder walls, or spark plug threads/pieces, or something iron/steel that got ingested??

Did you save the engine oil to send off for analysis? Results might be interesting.

I was skeptical too but I used a pick and scraped a bunch of the antiseize off the plug threads and it stuck to the magnet

 

[Kernal]

Never put a magnetic to it myself but Nickel anti-seize could be magnetic. Interesting.

 

[ttmon]

That looks like timing chain guide plastic and shavings of aluminum from the timing cover.

I wouldn't run it anymore until you get it torn apart.

Just a follow up. Finally pulled the motor and found two roasted rod bearings. Fortunately caught it in time and the crank just needed to be polished.

 

[BILT4ME]

Just a follow up. Finally pulled the motor and found two roasted rod bearings. Fortunately caught it in time and the crank just needed to be polished.

View attachment 3573702

Thankfully you stopped it when you did.

Sorry it was still a rebuild.

Don't forget to clean and rinse all oil galleys prior to reassembly. Also make sure to PROPERLY prime the oil pump before startup. I've seen two cranks destroyed in the last few months due to this, just on this forum. The FSM details this procedure.

 

[ttmon]

Thankfully you stopped it when you did.

Sorry it was still a rebuild.

Don't forget to clean and rinse all oil galleys prior to reassembly. Also make sure to PROPERLY prime the oil pump before startup. I've seen two cranks destroyed in the last few months due to this, just on this forum. The FSM details this procedure.

Great advise thanks.