- Thread starter
- #221
5.7 Vortec V-8 Swap / 86 FJ60
- Thread starter Elbert
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #222
Way to go Elbert.....
Im getting there.... now Im trying to get all the fitting I need for the fuel lines.....
I'll join yah guys soon...
hang in there, I think you took on some more work than I did.
- Thread starter
- #223
Ok... "News Flash"
If you are thinking about doing this (V-8 Swap)...do it! Make sure you know someone with welding and fabrication skills if you don't know them yourself. The instructions with the Mark's kit are fairly crude. Get the books from Downey and Advance Adapaters.... research this forum, bug some of the guys who've done this before (like I did). Read and research.
Milestones:
This tan brick is actually fun to drive now, more so than before. I actually have power now, I can actually pass someone, I can stay up with traffic or even jump ahead. It sounds good. In fact the power is a little bit on the generous side...got to watch how fast I'm going.
My three biggest pain in the @$$ problems were (1) a leaking spyder (fuel injection system), causing the truck to run extremely rich, (2) an initial PCM program that was not fully suited for my setup, (3) rounding up an alternator that works with a clean setup.
My advice.. make sure to measure for hood clearance.... I have just enough for the air cleaner, pull the engine,trans and TC out as one unit and install as one unit, take plenty of pictures and notes, buy the engine you want to use as a full assembly from a salvage yard, with everything you can get that's under the hood, to include the PCM and wiring harness, plus air filter housing ...etc. Be prepeared to hunt down or buy some fairly odd size metric bolts...
Round up a friend or two to help with the engine swap, actual install and removal of the egine assembly.
Check out what others have done.
If you are thinking about doing this (V-8 Swap)...do it! Make sure you know someone with welding and fabrication skills if you don't know them yourself. The instructions with the Mark's kit are fairly crude. Get the books from Downey and Advance Adapaters.... research this forum, bug some of the guys who've done this before (like I did). Read and research.
Milestones:
This tan brick is actually fun to drive now, more so than before. I actually have power now, I can actually pass someone, I can stay up with traffic or even jump ahead. It sounds good. In fact the power is a little bit on the generous side...got to watch how fast I'm going.
My three biggest pain in the @$$ problems were (1) a leaking spyder (fuel injection system), causing the truck to run extremely rich, (2) an initial PCM program that was not fully suited for my setup, (3) rounding up an alternator that works with a clean setup.
My advice.. make sure to measure for hood clearance.... I have just enough for the air cleaner, pull the engine,trans and TC out as one unit and install as one unit, take plenty of pictures and notes, buy the engine you want to use as a full assembly from a salvage yard, with everything you can get that's under the hood, to include the PCM and wiring harness, plus air filter housing ...etc. Be prepeared to hunt down or buy some fairly odd size metric bolts...
Round up a friend or two to help with the engine swap, actual install and removal of the egine assembly.
Check out what others have done.
- Thread starter
- #224
ok, looking for advice on a what VSS works and is easy to adapt or use on a toyota 5 speed/ TC.
Engine is a 1999 GM 5.7 Vortec mated to a Toytoa 5 speed trans, with OEM 1986 split case trasfer
case...
Don't these setups use a 4 pulse VSS? Specific part numbers / brands/ web site would be great.
I think the downy 4 pulse VSS that connects to the speedo cable is one that works? Can anyone
confirm?
Engine is a 1999 GM 5.7 Vortec mated to a Toytoa 5 speed trans, with OEM 1986 split case trasfer
case...
Don't these setups use a 4 pulse VSS? Specific part numbers / brands/ web site would be great.
I think the downy 4 pulse VSS that connects to the speedo cable is one that works? Can anyone
confirm?
Call Jim @ Downey off road. Use his transfer case VSS adapter. I don't know right off hand the part #. But it will be wicked easy if you still have the VSS plug wire on your harness and if it is still in you PCM programming. Very simple to adapt just make sure you tell him it is for a 60 series t-case. Great work and can't wait to see the final pic's.
- Thread starter
- #226
Anyone experience a condition on one of these swaps...where the slave cylinder extends to far and basically locks the clutch fork in the full forward position (on the outside of the arm, at the slave)?
Stock slave cylinder, stock clutch fork, GM flywheel and clutch, marks adapter.
Slave cylinder is mounted direct to the Mark's adapter bell housing and seemed to work fine for the last few weeks.... went to shift to 2nd gear the other day and clutch pedal stayed on the floor and had no pressure at the pedal. Looked at the slave clyinder and the shaft was fully extended...and locked in place. Removed slave cylinder and fork back in correct positon. Ordered two slave cylinders this PM.
I'm running the stock clutch fork off my 60.... Is this just an adjustment screwup or is there something else to check? The directions on the Mark's kit are not to good in this area.
Oh yeah... the highlight of this problem was I got stranded about two blocks from where I live.....walked home, got in the Honda and got by friends with the rollback to tow the thing home. Would have towed the thing home myself execpt I was trying to get a few things done and go on to work later that AM for some critical "stuff"...anyway ... another one of those fun things to do. Glad it happened close to home.
Stock slave cylinder, stock clutch fork, GM flywheel and clutch, marks adapter.
Slave cylinder is mounted direct to the Mark's adapter bell housing and seemed to work fine for the last few weeks.... went to shift to 2nd gear the other day and clutch pedal stayed on the floor and had no pressure at the pedal. Looked at the slave clyinder and the shaft was fully extended...and locked in place. Removed slave cylinder and fork back in correct positon. Ordered two slave cylinders this PM.
I'm running the stock clutch fork off my 60.... Is this just an adjustment screwup or is there something else to check? The directions on the Mark's kit are not to good in this area.
Oh yeah... the highlight of this problem was I got stranded about two blocks from where I live.....walked home, got in the Honda and got by friends with the rollback to tow the thing home. Would have towed the thing home myself execpt I was trying to get a few things done and go on to work later that AM for some critical "stuff"...anyway ... another one of those fun things to do. Glad it happened close to home.
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Yep had one of mine do that but what caused it to stay forward was the rod binding due to a bad angle on the mounting surface. Worked great at first then it started sticking. I switched over to an adjustable 40 series rod and it worked great. 
Hey Elbert, just saw this thread, way to go!! nice to see ya got it running great!!!!
So did Jesse Bubb do you ok on the programming? everybody told me the place was a great cheap place to send ECU's/harnesses to. I think My swap is the last one I do that has an ECU and harness doen by somebody else though.. from now on it's all me. Too frustrating to be having computer issues and not to be able to mess with it yourself because you sunk all your money into letting somebody else do it for you. I am about ot get LS1 edit or HPtuner so hopefully i can do it all myself (still having small issues after new ecu and probably 3 reprogrammings by FIS)
anywho, glad you are enjoying it. nice to have a new truck isn't it?!
So did Jesse Bubb do you ok on the programming? everybody told me the place was a great cheap place to send ECU's/harnesses to. I think My swap is the last one I do that has an ECU and harness doen by somebody else though.. from now on it's all me. Too frustrating to be having computer issues and not to be able to mess with it yourself because you sunk all your money into letting somebody else do it for you. I am about ot get LS1 edit or HPtuner so hopefully i can do it all myself (still having small issues after new ecu and probably 3 reprogrammings by FIS)
anywho, glad you are enjoying it. nice to have a new truck isn't it?!
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Hey Rover,
This is the part # I have for the VSS reluctor ring to fit on your stock TC: 33130-81
Then you have to purchase the actual VSS sensor: 33606
I'm working on my Vortec swap (L59 flex fuel. Like the one Frank has...) with 5-speed H55F.
Double check the part numbers with Downey, and good luck! Like Randy said, if you still have the VSS connector on your wiring harness, it should clip right up.
This is the part # I have for the VSS reluctor ring to fit on your stock TC: 33130-81
Then you have to purchase the actual VSS sensor: 33606
I'm working on my Vortec swap (L59 flex fuel. Like the one Frank has...) with 5-speed H55F.
Double check the part numbers with Downey, and good luck! Like Randy said, if you still have the VSS connector on your wiring harness, it should clip right up.
- Thread starter
- #230
Yep had one of mine do that but what caused it to stay forward was the rod binding due to a bad angle on the mounting surface. Worked great at first then it started sticking. I switched over to an adjustable 40 series rod and it worked great.
Are the FJ40 and FJ60 slave cylinders the same thing except for the adjustable "shaft"... ?
Do I need to just get a FJ40 slave cylinder and use that or do I need to swap a FJ40 adjustable shaft over to my soon to be new 60 slave cylinder? I don't know if you can just buy the adjustable shaft and swap it over or just run the complete 40 slave assembly.
On my truck with the marks adapater the angle looks fine...there is some adjustment on the marks setup for cltuch engagement which we may need to look at again. My friend at the GM shop said that "you need to consider that you have a new clutch and pressure plate, along with flywheel" so there's going to be a break-in period on that, which would reduce your clutch adjustement some. So if you exceeded your travel at the clutch fork...the slave shaft can extend to far. THese setups don't have much travel in the first place.
ditto.
i'm finishing a 5.7 vortec, NV4500 , orion HD conversion on an fj60 right now. we're going to use the output speed sensor on the orion HD to generate the signal for a digital speedo. we're also going to run ( just ordered it yesterday ) the downey unit on the back of the t-case ( where the bolt-on stamped tin cone normally resides ) to generate the required 40-pulse signal for the ecm and to get it pst the ref so we can smog it in CA. the truck is running but still needs a lot of loose ends tied up. i guess i should start a thread about it on here....
keep up the good work!
- Thread starter
- #233
ditto.
i'm finishing a 5.7 vortec, NV4500 , orion HD conversion on an fj60 right now. we're going to use the output speed sensor on the orion HD to generate the signal for a digital speedo. we're also going to run ( just ordered it yesterday ) the downey unit on the back of the t-case ( where the bolt-on stamped tin cone normally resides ) to generate the required 40-pulse signal for the ecm and to get it pst the ref so we can smog it in CA. the truck is running but still needs a lot of loose ends tied up. i guess i should start a thread about it on here....
keep up the good work!
Let us know how things turn out. Sounds like you have a clean setup.
- Thread starter
- #234
OK...
Kind of an update.../ future plans.
I've ordered the VSS setup from Downey and I'm waiting on a part to arrive. I've located the wiring on the painless harness and will have to extend it...to reach the rear of the transfer case.
In the mean time I've decided to proceed with the heavy/heavy lift from OME (Cruisers Outfitters), plus parts to rebuild front axle, and to install LSD in the front and rear axles. I'm tired of this locker in the rear. Decided to go with Auburn Pro LSD (about the only choice I know of in the LSD market) for the front and rear axles. Also decided to get a longfield super axle set for the front axle. So I do all this stuff at one time. I'll have some help but we'll get everything complete and will not have to screw with it hopefully for a while.
When I have all the parts for the VSS, I'll get back on trying to smooth out the drivability of the 5.7 Vortec. It runs ok, but not to its potential. At times I have the feeling its not recongnizing engine load properly which may be part of the (lack of a VSS right now).
After all this it will be on to getting the A/C working. I've got to get a new reciever / dryer and will probally get a re-mfg A/C delco compressor, plus I need a custom A/C hose made.
Later as we have some $$$ will add bumpers to the front and rear + winch.
Ok, so my question now is ..... Tires and Wheels with the OME 2+3 heavy lift. I would like to run a 265-75R-16 or a 285-75R-16 (standard pickup type size and easy to find) size tire. Pros / Cons on this ?
Also if I run the 16" tire what wheels would be a good choice. On the wheels I think I want them to be black in color, steel, 8 inch wide, and clear the brakes and have appropriate back spacing not to require spacers. IS this possible?
I know there are many threads on wheels and tires. ITs crazy to me but some people say one wheel fits while others say it does not.
IF you have first hand knowledge of either a 16inch wheel or 15inch wheel that is approx 8 inches wide with proper backspacing and will fit an 86 landcruiser let me know. I do know there is a company out in CA that makes custom wheels...but I would rather buy off the shelf if possible.
Not set on 16inch wheels but it they work, fine with me, otherwise I guess I would stay at the 15inch size.
Kind of an update.../ future plans.
I've ordered the VSS setup from Downey and I'm waiting on a part to arrive. I've located the wiring on the painless harness and will have to extend it...to reach the rear of the transfer case.
In the mean time I've decided to proceed with the heavy/heavy lift from OME (Cruisers Outfitters), plus parts to rebuild front axle, and to install LSD in the front and rear axles. I'm tired of this locker in the rear. Decided to go with Auburn Pro LSD (about the only choice I know of in the LSD market) for the front and rear axles. Also decided to get a longfield super axle set for the front axle. So I do all this stuff at one time. I'll have some help but we'll get everything complete and will not have to screw with it hopefully for a while.
When I have all the parts for the VSS, I'll get back on trying to smooth out the drivability of the 5.7 Vortec. It runs ok, but not to its potential. At times I have the feeling its not recongnizing engine load properly which may be part of the (lack of a VSS right now).
After all this it will be on to getting the A/C working. I've got to get a new reciever / dryer and will probally get a re-mfg A/C delco compressor, plus I need a custom A/C hose made.
Later as we have some $$$ will add bumpers to the front and rear + winch.
Ok, so my question now is ..... Tires and Wheels with the OME 2+3 heavy lift. I would like to run a 265-75R-16 or a 285-75R-16 (standard pickup type size and easy to find) size tire. Pros / Cons on this ?
Also if I run the 16" tire what wheels would be a good choice. On the wheels I think I want them to be black in color, steel, 8 inch wide, and clear the brakes and have appropriate back spacing not to require spacers. IS this possible?
I know there are many threads on wheels and tires. ITs crazy to me but some people say one wheel fits while others say it does not.
IF you have first hand knowledge of either a 16inch wheel or 15inch wheel that is approx 8 inches wide with proper backspacing and will fit an 86 landcruiser let me know. I do know there is a company out in CA that makes custom wheels...but I would rather buy off the shelf if possible.
Not set on 16inch wheels but it they work, fine with me, otherwise I guess I would stay at the 15inch size.
so far so good on our project. it got picked up from the shop almost a month ago. we did run into a small glitch with the ecu from howell; they had not deleted the autoamtic transmission portion so the comp is looking for trans input. it's back at howell right not to get reflashed. we also sent a spare ecu to them to have the same work done. always good to carry a spare on long road trips........
as far as rims go, you can get the black rock crawlers that 4 wheel parts wholesalers sells in just about any size. we've gotten a couple of sets in 17x8 and 17x10 and they were not that expensive at all. you just have to talk to the right guy when going to/calling 4 wheel parts...........most of the hired help down there does'nt know all that much. i'm amazed they don't forget to breathe.
last but not least, stockton wheel ( the company who makes custom rims here in norcal ) is on my way to the shop. so i drive by there twice a day. let me know if you need any help in case you do decide to go with some of their rims. i'll be happy to do what i can.
hth!
georg @ valley hybrids
as far as rims go, you can get the black rock crawlers that 4 wheel parts wholesalers sells in just about any size. we've gotten a couple of sets in 17x8 and 17x10 and they were not that expensive at all. you just have to talk to the right guy when going to/calling 4 wheel parts...........most of the hired help down there does'nt know all that much. i'm amazed they don't forget to breathe.
last but not least, stockton wheel ( the company who makes custom rims here in norcal ) is on my way to the shop. so i drive by there twice a day. let me know if you need any help in case you do decide to go with some of their rims. i'll be happy to do what i can.
hth!
georg @ valley hybrids
Did yo uget the VSS? How'd it change things?
- Thread starter
- #238
I have the VSS parts...not yet installed. I hope it does change some things. Ordered up some other parts too, most of which I've received, still waiting on the 4.11 gears to show up. I get over-run at wok all Sept and so I hope one of the weekends coming up I'll be able to install some of this stuff. If not it may move over into Oct before I can get started. If so, at least the weather will have started to cool off.
I've been reading on the monodax forum that the rear 02 sensors do contribute to some of the fuel adjustment. I'll let you know how the VSS pans out, as soon as I can.
I've been reading on the monodax forum that the rear 02 sensors do contribute to some of the fuel adjustment. I'll let you know how the VSS pans out, as soon as I can.
great, thanks. I don't have one on mine and if you remember it kinda tries to die at idle. Now that I have to pass Co inspection, I am going to have to pull my harness and add all of the emissions stuff back again.. the VSS is a part of that according to "them" so i was gonna go ahead an do it now. I was just gonna get the VSS downey sells that bolts to the back of the transfer case since it seems like the cleanest option even though it is not cheap. I am still getting codes for it running too lean which is frustrating, but I do have the HPtuners software so after i get the wiring back up to snuff I am going to just tune it myself. Pretty sweet software BTW.
Again, glad to hear you've got it on the road.
Again, glad to hear you've got it on the road.
