4Runner Engine Build (1 Viewer)

[Jdesigns2001]

Hello, I have a 1989 4runner that I have owned since 1998. I daily drove this truck for over 20 years up until about 2018 when I blew the head gasket. It has been sitting since and I am finally getting back around to it. The motor has about 200k on it and has had no internal work. My original plan was to replace the head gasket, but once I got the head out and thought about it, I decided to pull the block as well and check/refresh everything. I am thinking about a full rebuild with quality performance upgrades like a performance cam, headers, de-smog, etc… On a cursory search for parts LC Engineering stood out to me as a good source, but I was wondering if I could get some recommendation on part suppliers and/or rebuild kits. I am interested in good quality parts over cheap parts as I care deeply about this truck and plan to keep it forever and pass on to my kids. Any suggestions veterans would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

-John

 

[pappy]

If you can find out what brands LCE sells you can price shop at places like Rockauto.com. For a header I prefer the tri-y headers like the Doug Thorley. I've run three aftermarket camshafts. In order of preference ... DOA C270, TRD/Crane #1, LCE Street Performance. The TRD/Crane is NLA. I would check with Tim at DOA and see what/if modification are needed to run his cam. As I recall it's high lift and might require a mod to run.

Gaskets. I would not under any circumstances run a Felpro head gasket. I've had three of them fail on me (installed by others). Only run a Toyota head gasket. Since you will have the engine apart just get the OEM gasket kit. Or, get an aftermarket kit from Rockauto (for cheap), but substitute the head gasket for OEM. Also, for the timing kit make sure to get the steel guide kit. Several sources offer them, including DOA and LCE.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Looks like you found the Allen head bolt no problem! Take a look at 22RE Race works and 22RE Performance for some other parts ideas.

 

[Jdesigns2001]

Looks like you found the Allen head bolt no problem! Take a look at 22RE Race works and 22RE Performance for some other parts ideas.

Thanks for the vender references I will check them out. Is the Bolt you are referring to the head to timing chain cover bolt in the front of the head? Mine wasn't an Allen head, but that may be that the guy before me missed it and broke it off / replaced with a hex bolt!

 

[Jdesigns2001]

If you can find out what brands LCE sells you can price shop at places like Rockauto.com. For a header I prefer the tri-y headers like the Doug Thorley. I've run three aftermarket camshafts. In order of preference ... DOA C270, TRD/Crane #1, LCE Street Performance. The TRD/Crane is NLA. I would check with Tim at DOA and see what/if modification are needed to run his cam. As I recall it's high lift and might require a mod to run.

Gaskets. I would not under any circumstances run a Felpro head gasket. I've had three of them fail on me (installed by others). Only run a Toyota head gasket. Since you will have the engine apart just get the OEM gasket kit. Or, get an aftermarket kit from Rockauto (for cheap), but substitute the head gasket for OEM. Also, for the timing kit make sure to get the steel guide kit. Several sources offer them, including DOA and LCE.

Thanks so much for the information and advice!

 

[Mudder]

LCE sells good parts but they can also be found cheaper elsewhere like Pappy stated. I tend to use multiple sites to gather OEM part numbers then make a big order from Serra Toyota of Decatur. They typically offer free shipping on orders over $75 up to a $200 value and have the cheapest prices. However, they also don't communicate worth crap and sometimes don't ship all the parts due to back order and they don't tell you about it.

The sites I typically use are:
LCE
209Yota1 (22R-E 2.4L 4Cyl Archives - Yota1 Performance, Inc. - https://209yota1.com/product-category/shop-by-engine/22r-e-2-4l-4cyl/)
YotaShop (Toyota Auto Parts By Model and Year - https://www.yotashop.com/toyota-auto-parts-by-model-and-year/)
Amayama (Genuine Japanese Car Part Imports - Amayama - https://www.amayama.com/en)
22re Performance (22RE Performance - https://22reperformance.com/)

 

[aztoyman]

All the above is good advice. I've built a few but it was many years ago. I also shopped for the best parts at the best prices I could find and did my own work except for the machine work. A good machine shop will let you know what you need or don't need.

The best one I ever built was with a performance cam, over sized valves, port work, header and I think I used 2 1/4" exhaust. Just a turbo style muffler since I don't like loud anymore. I deleted the EGR but I still used a cat. The cam and O/S valves were from Engnbldr.com that is now out of business. He sold the business to the shop that was grinding his cams and they are still in business. Performance Camshafts | United States | RedLineEngineBuilders.com - https://www.redlineenginebuilders.com/

I used a 270 cam. It was the largest cam recommended for the stock EFI and it was my favorite of all I have used. It made a big improvement for street and highway driving for my daily commute. I had MANY people telling me it would kill low end performance. It was SLIGHT and the mid range was awesome. I had low range gears in the T-case for off road and I had ZERO regret running that cam. I had 31" tires and 4.56 gears at the time I built it and it still was awesome when I went to 35" tires and 5.29 gears. Just my personal experience.

Since head gaskets failures are common failures, the deck surface has to be good as does the head surface. Don't jus replace the gasket. And use OEM head gasket as recommended above. I also agree with the steel backed timing guides.

I blended the bowls after the larger valves and gasket matched the ports. Nothing crazy with the port work. OEM head is best if it can be reused.
Make sure the rocker assemblies come apart for cleaning and inspection. OEM rocker pads can be resurfaced if needed. Adjusting bolts often are beat on the ends and make it difficult to adjust the valves if bad enough. Might need new ones.

Tank/soak the intake because the plenum will be caked with carbon and gunk from the EGR and PCV.

Have your radiator cleaned or replaced if needed before you put your engine back in service. Many people have over heated the engine on the first run because air trapped in the cooling system. Tons of info on burping the system out there. Have your heater on too to vent the air.

I fill the system slowly with the T-stat out and the housing off just to be sure. When the coolant reaches that level, I'll put the T-stat in, housing on and the upper hose, then top off the radiator. The reason I do it that way is because ONE time I had trapped air even after burping it and thinking I was good to go.

However you decide to go, good luck with your rebuild.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Bolt I am referring to is under the intake towards the front of the engine, so left in your picture. It is tricky to get to with a long Allen key. I think it is 8mm. I just did a new 22RE build in August. Jim Putney at 22RE Race Works had good service and advice regarding cams, because I am fairly clueless about cams. I also got parts from NWYota, which is somewhere in Washington state. I have to be very mindful of shipping, because of the border. One shipment cost me an addtional $400 just to get it across the border. I went with a stock short block, ported head with bigger valves, upgraded camshaft, LCE header. Steel timing guides but worth noting that I have broken a timing chain while using the steel guides before. I never got to take that engnine apart to see a possible cause, but I would be looking closely at a 22RE around 250k regardless of upgrades. Will see when I get there.