400k Mile 2UZ-What oil would you use?

[Rednexus]

I've ran Mobil 1 HM oil interspersed with other oils (Valvoline MaxLife, basic white-bottle Valvoline, Castrol Full synthetic) in multiple different high-mileage vehicles and have had exactly zero problems with oil leaks or other negative effects from switching back and forth between any of them. Perhaps the "HM for life" thing is overblown and something Mobil is doing to try and get you to keep buying more of their oil. I typically run Mobil 1 HM as it's cheap and easy to find, but change it every 5K regardless. I'd be curious of if anyone actually experienced widespread seal leaks when switching off of Mobil 1 HM or it is is just a general concern.

FYI, My 2UZ also had a rear main drip that dried up with a bottle of AT-205 - Mobil 1 HM really didn't make it any better so I'm not sure how strong the seal conditioners are in it anyway. I also did a flush with Liqui Moly (the good German stuff) in my GX and with BG in a Subaru and thought they did exactly nothing to the performance of either rig.....just my experience. Perhaps they'd help on a rig that hadn't been well maintained - both the Subie and my GX were very clean internally from frequent oil changes.

 

[2001LC]

I've ran Mobil 1 HM oil interspersed with other oils (Valvoline MaxLife, basic white-bottle Valvoline, Castrol Full synthetic) in multiple different high-mileage vehicles and have had exactly zero problems with oil leaks or other negative effects from switching back and forth between any of them. Perhaps the "HM for life" thing is overblown and something Mobil is doing to try and get you to keep buying more of their oil. I typically run Mobil 1 HM as it's cheap and easy to find, but change it every 5K regardless. I'd be curious of if anyone actually experienced widespread seal leaks when switching off of Mobil 1 HM or it is is just a general concern.

FYI, My 2UZ also had a rear main drip that dried up with a bottle of AT-205 - Mobil 1 HM really didn't make it any better so I'm not sure how strong the seal conditioners are in it anyway. I also did a flush with Liqui Moly (the good German stuff) in my GX and with BG in a Subaru and thought they did exactly nothing to the performance of either rig.....just my experience. Perhaps they'd help on a rig that hadn't been well maintained - both the Subie and my GX were very clean internally from frequent oil changes.

Every time a 100 series comes in leaking oil at many or all possible points, they've used HM oil for 2 changes or more. The VVT engine on HM, will even leak at the VVT actuator O-rings.

Using HM oil is about the worst thing we can do, to our rubber seals.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Toyota mineral oil every 4k miles, that’s what I would use and remain practical. Try not to overthink oil, it’s not rocket science, oil is simply the main lubrication to mitigate temperatures caused by friction on moving parts inside the bottom block of the engine. Toyota seals are meant to last 200k miles (320k kms) at most, chalk it up as maintenance at that mileage. For reference, oil seals in European cars on an average fail at 100k miles..

 

[Rednexus]

Every time a 100 series comes in leaking oil at many or all possible points, they've used HM oil for 2 changes or more. The VVT engine on HM, will even leak at the VVT actuator O-rings.

Using HM oil is about the worst thing we can do, to our rubber seals.

This has not been my experience in my VVTI 2UZ or any of the other vehicles I've ran HM oil in. I've used it for ~6 of ~8 changes and have had zero leaks other than the rear main which AT 205 dried up. Perhaps the leaks were already there or appeared due to the oil removing varnish/gunk around the seal.

EDIT: For my own curiosity - and since I'm down to just 3Q of Mobil 1 HM5W30 remaining - I might try the regular variety for a couple of changes and see if anything happens . Unfortunately with the miles I drive the GX it will be at least a year until I get trough two changes of regular oil!

 

[BullElk]

Conventional 15w-40 in all of mine for umpteen thousands of miles.

 

[2001LC]

This has not been my experience in my VVTI 2UZ or any of the other vehicles I've ran HM oil in. I've used it for ~6 of ~8 changes and have had zero leaks other than the rear main which AT 205 dried up. Perhaps the leaks were already there or appeared due to the oil removing varnish/gunk around the seal.

I read that in your previous post. But I can assure you it has been my experience and that of others in this forum. That HM oil does damage rubber seals!
Use it if you like. But please, it will be best if you etch on oil cap: Use only HM oil.

What Mobil 1 states; "Must continue to use HM oil for life of engine, if used HM oil two changes in a row". Call them, I did! Think about it. Why would they say that. It's like putting your engine on a narcotic, you can't get off.

 

[Rednexus]

What Mobil 1 states; "Must continue to use HM oil for life of engine, if used HM oil two changes in a row". Call them, I did! Think about it. Why would they say that. It's like putting your engine on a narcotic, you can't get off.

Except that when I did stop using Mobil 1 HM for a couple of oil changes (after the Liqui Moly flush I did shot-duration changes of ~3-4K with Valvoline to help flush crap out of the motor), I didn't get any leaks. At that point the seals would have been pretty bare and exposed due to the flush. If it was going to spring a leak, it would have been the perfect time to do it. It had had around 2 changes of Mobil 1 HM prior to the flush - I bought the rig before that and have no clue what the POs ran in it, other than that it kept the motor pretty clean. That was ~2 years and ~30K ago and still no leaks @171K.

Again I don't doubt your experience - mine on my 2UZ is just to the contrary.

 

[ed94r]

Honest Question here:

If M1 HM has "seal modifiers" and AT-205 is a seal modifier...I'd be curious to to know the difference in why one is highly recommended and the other is a engine narcotic?

 

[Rednexus]

Honest Question here:

If M1 HM has "seal modifiers" and AT-205 is a seal modifier...I'd be curious to to know the difference in why one is highly recommended and the other is a engine narcotic?

In my experience the HM seal modifiers in Mobil 1 really don't do much (which is one reason I'm considering dropping it for normal Mobil 1 - honestly I'd just been buying it out of habit). In my GX and in a previous GM 3800 V6, things kept leaking when starting to run the M1 HM, but the AT-205 dramatically cleared up the real main drip in my GX (never tried it in the 3800). If the M1 HM seal modifier is doing anything, it's very negligible and might be more of a "seal maintenance" thing. Using M1 HM in Subarus, which also have exceptional seals, stuff just never leaked other than very minor front seal seepage from a FB25 (that appeared around 100K using normal M1 and didn't stop when I started putting M1 HM in).

Also note that the AT-205 doesn't work forever - I think either my rear main is very slowly dripping again or I'm getting a drip from the front transmission. It's been 2 years since the AT-205 treatment so I consider that a great success. I'll throw a bottle each in the engine and trans of my GX next time I service it, and frankly put some in the diffs and TC too as I seem to pull water in past the diff seals upon creek crossings (despite relocated breathers) and have some minor TC seepage.

 

[Mike NXP]

Came across a great deal on a 411k 1999 Cruiser. Bone stock, runs great. Needs some attention like timing belt, suspension, interior cleaning, etc.

I've always used synthetic oils on my vehicles but never had one with this high of mileage and don't want to mess up a good thing. As far as I can tell it was pretty much the quick oil change places used in the past, judging by the windshield sticker.

I've heard/read things about when you switch to high-mileage oil that you better stick to it, so I thought I would poll the group and see what everyone thinks. Thanks for the help!

Your thinking on high mileage oil is correct, Mobil has confirmed this. Once you use it, stick with it.

You got a 2UZ with 411k miles on it? I suggest using whatever oil they have been using ! lol ....Just use any brand name quality oil and move on. Avoid additives like high mileage BS.

 

[shtbrwn86]

I used Valvoline HM oil my first oil change when I bought the LX (1999, 246k). Since then it's been all Kirkland full-synthetic. Does it leak oil? Yes. But not from that oil change. That being said I would just stick to SM (standard mile) oil.

 

[Rednexus]

Since this thread has me re-thinking my oil choices, does anyone have a definitive yes/no on running a cheaper semi-synthetic like Valvoline Max Life or white bottle in a 2UZ? I change mine every 5K regardless. The rig does get worked pretty hard towing our 4,000# camper, which is why I've been springing for the full synthetic Mobil 1 ($25-30/jug) instead of the cheaper Valvoline semi-synthetic ($18/jug). Saving $10-14/oil change is by no means a necessity but I keep reading the 2UZ is bulletproof and easy on oil......

 

[Mike NXP]

Since this thread has me re-thinking my oil choices, does anyone have a definitive yes/no on running a cheaper semi-synthetic like Valvoline Max Life or white bottle in a 2UZ? I change mine every 5K regardless. The rig does get worked pretty hard towing our 4,000# camper, which is why I've been springing for the full synthetic Mobil 1 ($25-30/jug) instead of the cheaper Valvoline semi-synthetic ($18/jug). Saving $10-14/oil change is by no means a necessity but I keep reading the 2UZ is bulletproof and easy on oil......

What oil to run is all speculation / opinion unless you want to test different types and send them off to Blackstone for analysis.

 

[Rednexus]

What oil to run is all speculation / opinion unless you want to test different types and send them off to Blackstone for analysis.

I may run a Blackstone on my next change of M1 HM and then do a Valvoline white bottle after that to see what happens. I have a sample jar sitting around and have just not bothered to collect one this far.

It would be nice if someone had a definitive answer and history on having run cheaper oil in one of these at very high mileages.

 

[Mike NXP]

I may run a Blackstone on my next change of M1 HM and then do a Valvoline white bottle after that to see what happens. I have a sample jar sitting around and have just not bothered to collect one this far.

It would be nice if someone had a definitive answer and history on having run cheaper oil in one of these at very high mileages.

Maybe ask Blackstone , they have records of all 2uz. Maybe they will tell you some averages for different types of oils but idk

 

[dbleon]

So is there a consensus that 15-40 is good for hot climates ?

I’ve only run 5-30 m1 but wouldn’t mind using using heavier weight if it offers more protection in this high heat in Phoenix AZ

 

[odonekanobe]

op - when you joined 10 years ago what vehicle were you driving?

2nd gen 4Runner. Why?

 

[TexLexican]

So is there a consensus that 15-40 is good for hot climates ?

I’ve only run 5-30 m1 but wouldn’t mind using using heavier weight if it offers more protection in this high heat in Phoenix AZ

Doesn’t the manual suggest 10w-30 for warmer climates?

 

[vipergrhd]

2nd gen 4Runner. Why?

I was thinking like a horse and buggy.
I had a 2nd Gen. with a 5 speed sold it to a good friends son.

 

[DuckLN]

2nd gen 4Runner. Why?

i’m concerned that your inquiry is ….. well its a little ford vs chevy meaning it smells like a planted post thats not genuine to the backbone of this forum.