40-series Power Steering Box Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Joel, TLCA #21509
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I thought it may be handy to have a general Power Steering Rebuild thread to collect some of the info running around the forum. Maybe this will reduce someone's searching efforts down the line.

I found a few threads in particular to be helpful:

Page 22 of @DSRTRDR's rebuild thread had some helpful pictures and tips. This was, honestly, the most helpful bit I found. Though it’s an 80-series box, it is nearly identical in terms of disassembly and rebuild.
the DSRTRDR is getting some TLC . . .

Handy reference on the number or recirculating balls.
Help needed Power Steering Box 40 series

The rebuild kit required and some discussion on the ball bearings.
Fj40 Original Power Steering Box Rebuild

Danny’s walkthrough on sending it out for re-sealing. ;)
RESOLVED. Help? Power Steering GearBox

I went ahead and bought the kit (available in the region through the parts network we have). Part# 04445-35040 (mentioned in one of the threads above). Ran me about $65 USD (paid in AED here locally).

So now some pictures and pointers to help others who may want to tackle this in the future. I’ve put some notes in the pictures to highlight where some of the various seals go.

The end of the cross shaft, where the pitman arm attaches, will be a mess. Mine was dirty and a bit rusty. Lacquer thinner and a brash brush did most of the work. I then popped it in a vice and ran over the whole shaft with some fine sand paper to polish the whole thing up. Ideally I would have run this through a lathe similar to the work done on DSRTRDR’s, but I was able to get it nice and smooth. We’ll see if the remaining pitting gives me trouble in the future…

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093shaftend.jpg


Here it is taken down into the primary components… cross shaft, piston/valve body assembly, and gearbox.

094parts.jpg


Here is the piston/valve body laid out in pieces with the respective seals.

095pistonvalveseals.jpg


And some closeups:

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The @DSRTRDR link has excellent photos and write-up on the following:
  • Replacing the 44 ball bearings into the piston
  • The o-ring, Teflon seal, spacer washer, and ring clip that go in for the cross shaft
The step-by-step photos by @Tools R Us are perfect.


I’ll add the following input:
  • This took me a long time to figure out... Once you’ve greased the balls that go in the split tube, place the piston over the end of the worm shaft until you can see the first groove in the “lower” hole of the piston. Drop a ball in and then screw the shaft in just a bit more. This will pull the ball in. Add another ball. Screw the shaft in just a bit more. Add another ball… and on until the 33 are in. As you place number 33 and screw the shaft a bit you’ll see the first one just appearing in the other hole. Now secure the recirculating tube.
  • As you insert the piston back into the gearbox the new Teflon seal on the very end of the piston wants to catch as it passes through the cross shaft opening. Be ginger with it here... help it squeeze in with a small flat bladed screwdriver or even a small pick.
  • It really doesn’t feel right how much you have to make the Teflon seal into a “heart” shape. Bend that sucker and once in it smooths our fairly well.
  • I had 3 parts left over… two identically sized large o-rings and one machined brass bushing/fitting. There are three of these brass fittings in the pack… two are larger and one is smaller. The two larger drop inside the threaded input and output holes for the hydraulic lines.
Once reassembled I washed the unit down in lacquer thinner and repainted it.

099painted.jpg


100painted.jpg


Here are all of the old seals and rings I removed. One of my brass fittings was missing. I'm posting this because I forgot to take a pic before starting of the kit with all new parts.

104oldparts.jpg
 
Two more things to add...
  • The inside of the piston is a natural low point in the entire system. It had gathered LOTS of muck over the years. I had to scrub (with a toothbrush) and rinse with ATF several times to get everything out of there.
  • The FSM has great info on the teardown and re-assembly and how to set the preload on the piston/valve and the cross shaft, both of which are adjustable. That said, I didn't have the tools required for this so I did it by "feel". I made sure that the final assembly felt the same as it did prior to dis-assembly in terms of how easy it was to turn.
 
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Oh, and a question about heat shielding.

I have a bracket for the power-steering box to attach a heat shield... but I don't have a heat shield. The gearbox sits right next to the exhaust pipe and immediately below the exhaust manifold. How crucial is this? Can the heat cause the fluid to leak past the seals? Is this a hot weather only necessity?
 
Oh, and a question about heat shielding.

I have a bracket for the power-steering box to attach a heat shield... but I don't have a heat shield. The gearbox sits right next to the exhaust pipe and immediately below the exhaust manifold. How crucial is this? Can the heat cause the fluid to leak past the seals? Is this a hot weather only necessity?

Great question!! Sorry, I have the same question... There is not enough room between my gearbox and my headers to mount a heat shield (assuming I had one), so I mounted a cooler (Amazon.com: Hayden Automotive 1010 Power Steering Oil Cooler: Automotive) in front of the radiator (above the "Toyota") and routed the power steering fluid return thru the cooler.

I also added this filter (Amazon.com: ATP JX-160 3/8" Universal In-Line Filter: Automotive) to the same return.

Hopefully, that will be enough... So far it has been, but it gets a little warmer here in the summer, if you can possibly relate... :doh:

image.jpeg
 
Great question!! Sorry, I have the same question... There is not enough room between my gearbox and my headers to mount a heat shield (assuming I had one), so I mounted a cooler (Amazon.com: Hayden Automotive 1010 Power Steering Oil Cooler: Automotive) in front of the radiator (above the "Toyota") and routed the power steering fluid return thru the cooler.

I also added this filter (Amazon.com: ATP JX-160 3/8" Universal In-Line Filter: Automotive) to the same return.

Hopefully, that will be enough... So far it has been, but it gets a little warmer here in the summer, if you can possibly relate... :doh:

View attachment 1183790

Hmm... I like what you did with that cooler. My return and pressure line run from the passenger side of my engine bay, out along the front crossmember, and back in the bay to the gearbox. So while mine has quite a bit more lineal length of hardline to cool itself, it does't have the fins/radiating surface.

The new box has been leak free for over a week now. Yesterday though I drove it for some distance at mid day and I had leaking from the input shaft. I'm wondering if I overheated the fluid and that triggered it.
 
Hmm... I like what you did with that cooler. My return and pressure line run from the passenger side of my engine bay, out along the front crossmember, and back in the bay to the gearbox. So while mine has quite a bit more lineal length of hardline to cool itself, it does't have the fins/radiating surface.

The new box has been leak free for over a week now. Yesterday though I drove it for some distance at mid day and I had leaking from the input shaft. I'm wondering if I overheated the fluid and that triggered it.

Pre-rebuild and pre-cooler: I've driven mine in a very hot environment and I know my headers run at 450*. But, the only indications I'd had that the fluid was probably cooked was the smell and the color. ATF stinks regardless. But this was way beyond "stink"... and the color was "burnt" looking.

Post-rebuild and post-cooler: Its winter here and MUCH cooler, but my headers are still at the same 450*. The ATF is still "pink" and still smells like ATF.

Don't know if that helps you...

Happy New Year!!
 
It's never a good idea to mount the Cooler directly to the Radiator fins. The constant jarring of off road vehicles can put holes in the radiator due to the fins distorting.

Better idea is to make a separate mount.

I would also run a heat shield if you can. It'll help considerably keeping the heat off the box. Not mandatory, but a good idea.
 
Has anyone tried to just shim the stock steering gear box out a little bit by welding a 1/4 inch or so steel plate between the frame and the stock steering gear box? Does the stock steering shaft have a little play side to side ? I dropped in a 5.3 v8 chevy vortec in my 1976 fj 40 and the LS swap exhaust manifold fits in between the motor and the stock steering gear box but its awfully tight im afraid im going to have heat issues. figure I need just a little more clearance. I got a 1/4 inch or so clearance, between the exhaust manifold and the steering gear box roughly some places way more but the bolts are almost touching yuck. the power steering cooler wont work with my set up i don't think? no power steering lines to hook the cooler to. is the power steering gear box of a ? fj 80? chevy or ? not as wide as the stock original fj 40 steering gear box? Just put in power steering in the same place as the stock gear box ? if I just need a little more space?
 
Has anyone tried to just shim the stock steering gear box out a little bit by welding a 1/4 inch or so steel plate between the frame and the stock steering gear box? Does the stock steering shaft have a little play side to side ? I dropped in a 5.3 v8 chevy vortec in my 1976 fj 40 and the LS swap exhaust manifold fits in between the motor and the stock steering gear box but its awfully tight im afraid im going to have heat issues. figure I need just a little more clearance. I got a 1/4 inch or so clearance, between the exhaust manifold and the steering gear box roughly some places way more but the bolts are almost touching yuck. the power steering cooler wont work with my set up i don't think? no power steering lines to hook the cooler to. is the power steering gear box of a ? fj 80? chevy or ? not as wide as the stock original fj 40 steering gear box? Just put in power steering in the same place as the stock gear box ? if I just need a little more space?

Man... that's a lot of questions. My guess is you aren't going to get much input in this thread... it's a power-steering box rebuild thread. I'd start a new thread asking about power steering options after a V8 swap... plenty of those folks around.

Those pics don't show much room for anything in the factor location. An 80 or 60 series box might work... installed outboard of the frame. If you're wanting to go OEM. Since you've already V8 swapped, a Saginaw conversion may be best.
 

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