40 not running

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1978freebornred

78 fj40 LE and 79 fj40 LE w/ stock ac
Joined
Dec 12, 2010
Threads
145
Messages
433
Location
Springfield Mo
Website
forum.ih8mud.com
What it does :
Cranks over
Has fuel in the bowl of the carb
Carb accelerator pump now works and the rest of the carb pretty sure just rebuilt the top
has spark dont know if its the correct spark but has it

What it doesnt do:
It doesnt start

Parts replaced:
carburator accel pump
accel led points for mallory unilite distributor
mallory voltage regulator (inline to dizz)
:bang::bang::bang::meh:

any help would help
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Hi All:

Shot in the dark . . . fuel filter condition? Fuel pump working correctly??

The aftermarket ignition components are suspect in my book . . the 1978 & up electronic Toyota ignition works well.

Good luck!

Alan
 
Check Painless

I noticed the painless wiring if yours has a complete painless system check the ignition switch. I had a similar issue with mine and it was because one of the two wires that are spliced onto one stud came off. I think it was the pink one on mine.
 
I noticed the painless wiring if yours has a complete painless system check the ignition switch. I had a similar issue with mine and it was because one of the two wires that are spliced onto one stud came off. I think it was the pink one on mine.

times 2 on this one, i had a rewire from a factory recall in 80 that was not in any book and the starter config was different...

replace the fuel pump just to be certain... around $35 bucks new OEM manufacturer at O Reilly's..
 
It is a full painless wire harness... more on this ignition switch? do you mean at my resistor coil ? the fuse in the fuse block? or what?

would it even turn over if the ignition switch was screwy?

I fogot to mention i have checked the power through all the starting components its 12.5 volts then 10.2 to the distrib from coil
i think the fuel pump is working the carb is full of gas i pulled the 14mm bolts off and gas just keep spilling out...
 
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Are you trying to get it running for the first time, or was it running before you did some work to it, and now it doesn't run?

I would make sure you're timed 7-10 degrees BTDC before replacing any parts. You need to be sure that it's getting spark at the right time. Have you checked how strong your spark is?
 
dist cap/coil wire?
 
where's this one going?
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To the coil.



Air, fuel, spark.

You have air and Fuel I'd start looking at that spark. Willing to be that's your issue.

Is the coil and the dizzy designed for 12v with or without a resistor?


Redo your battery tiedown.
 
Are you sure you have the points gapped properly? Maybe you aren't closing or opening the points and not creating the spark you need. Did you replace the condensor when yoou replaced the points?
 
it ran for 2 years great until the points melted in the distributor still original dizzy and coil during that 2 yr peroid...

So you've replaced the dizzy if I understand this right?

If it's turning over but not starting, I would suspect that you could be a tooth off when you installed your new dizzy or maybe it is 180 degrees off? Those will cause it to not start.

Just a sideline... I thought 78's had an electronic ignition from the factory? :meh:
 
no i replaced the guts of the distributor and the points are electrontic , part number MAA-605 from summit racing i used their replacement which is accel ACC-2005 coil is designed for resistor it is all mallory a unilte dizzy and mallory promaster coil.

dont know about factory stuff this was on it when i got it.
 
Is the coil and the dizzy designed for 12v with or without a resistor?

doesnt look like the resistor is hooked up correctly...it's not resisting anything...he have full power going to his coil...

it ran for 2 years great until the points melted in the distributor still original dizzy and coil during that 2 yr peroid...


if thats the way it was hooked up 2 years ago...that would be the reason for them burning out on ya...may be the case now as well
 
to check the spark i pulled a plug and had it touching the block to check for spark it sparked.
does anyone know how to test the points to make sure they are good?
I dont want to blindly be changing parts here probably would do the fuel pump cause its the original and replacement is cheap but it ran last week on the same fuel and it has had a different fuel tank so my fuel is probably without grime in it.
 
Air, fuel, spark.

.

Eliminate the easiest piece of the puzzle first. Spray starting ether into the carb and see if it starts. If it starts, your issue is fuel. It seems like the problem is spark, though.

Use chalk/soap stone/wax crayon to mark the orientation of the #1 terminal on the distributor cap. Turn the engine to TDC#1 (compression stroke). Take the distributor cap off. Does the rotor point to where the #1 wire contact point is in the dist. cap? It should be. If the rotor is exactly 180* out, make sure you are on the compression stroke.
 
Another way to check for spark is to use a timing gun. Clamp on the sensor and crank it. If it's sparking, you'll see the light flashing.
 
Sounds like you have spark, so points shouldn't be an issue. Now, do you have spark at the right time?
 
I am buying some plug wires on the way home the coil to dizzy is scrapped but dont know that that will help... doubt it its not thru the wire i will have to check the timing with the top dead center cause pouring fuel in the carb and cranking it and checking that it has spark to me means the timing is off or its not getting enough spark... I will also check that every spark plug fires.
 
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