Builds 40 Guy Builds a 100 Series (1 Viewer)

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...I am still unsure if I will install a new fairlead, I picked up a Slee aluminum Haws fairlead but I am unsure if I need it with the new rope. I don't have any burrs or sharp edges on my rollers. I might swap out the Slee fairlead for a set of Delrin rollers if I think its necessary. Thoughts?
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I'm in a similar boat, having switched to synthetic line and a F55 Flat Splicer but having a bumper with the roller fairlead recess built in (Ironman Commercial Deluxe). I ordered the thickest Factor 55 fairlead (1.5") and I wasn't convinced that it pushed the line out far enough to keep it from rubbing against the top edge of the bumper in an angled pull. It didn't matter anyway, because the fairlead was too wide to fit in the recess without grinding the edges (If you go with a Hawse, measure the opening in the bumper before ordering). I'm probably just gonna replace my steel rollers with new aluminum ones to reduce weight, but if you find a source for Delrin rollers, please let me know. The ones from Viking have long since been discontinued.
 
So I rolled, 320,000 miles in the old girl this month. I told myself that was the point at which I'd give her a big 90k tune up. So I kept my word and ordered a high quality kit off Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EEYWKI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 along with a new Toyota Thermostat and gasket. I picked up two gallons of Toyota Red Antifreeze at my local dealer. Everything in the kit is the same OEM provider for Toyota... everything was super nice and high quality. I replaced:
  • Timing belt
  • Idler pulley
  • Tensioner pulley
  • Thermostat
  • Thermostat Gasket
  • Waterpump
  • Waterpump gasket
  • Upper radiator hose
  • All fluid
  • Serpentine belt.

Things went really smooth for me. I spent nearly 11 hours over 2 days completing this. Just keep your hardware and parts in good order and organized. Everything went smooth, it just took a LONG time, I can see why this costs so much for someone else to do.

A few tips...
  • I let the air out of my tires dropping the front end ~6" to make it easy to access.
  • I took lots of pictures at every step, it sped up my reassembly time dramatically.
  • I used the factory manual.
  • Find an impact driver, it was a life saver on the crank pulley nut for removal and installation
  • I didn't remove the radiator.

All shined up, ready to run past 400k now! Yikes! Gotta clean that throttle body and MAF when it warms up again.
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Man adding this sticker was soooooo satisfying. As a point of information my timing belt was 30k past due... when pulled it looked to be in fantastic shape. I am not recommending running it that long but it did give me peace of mind that they can and should last much longer than the recommend service interval. I'll post up a pic of it soon. Mine was an OEM Toyota belt fwiw.
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So I decided to build a fairing for the front of my roof rack as I get some wind noise on the highway. I used a sheet of 3/16” polycarbonate and some broom handle spring clips. Pretty easy here’s some pics...

Starting with this...
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Here’s the sheet of polycarbonate, glossy on one side matte on the other and a pack of spring clips. ABS would work well too, just get something UV resistant.
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I Taped the plastic in place and then I used a sharpie with a guide to measure off the arch of the roof line so that I could cut it to shape.
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Here it is cut to shape and test fitting it. I had a little bigger gap and I would’ve liked but you live and learn, no biggie!
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Then I attach the spring clips to the roof rack itself by orientating them into different directions, the red you see is the protection for the VHB tape that I use from 3M.
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And done! Actually, I will get it through to the spring clips in through the front of the ferry but I wanna make sure that everything is working out before I do that.
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Glamour shot here, I’ll try to follow the lines of the roof rack so that it would look as factory as possible.
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Last little detail, I installed these rubber strips that have a notch for the plastic to Rest in so that I don’t get plastic on paint contact. We will have to see how this goes and if the spring clips are holding off to keep the faring on at speed.
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What is the plan for the light underneath the polycarb? You might look at sourcing some of the plastic that Ben at Dissent is using on the roof rack he is building. It should be fairly easy to find, but I am not sure what it is called. It seems like it might create a tighter seal.
 
It pops off with a tug and goes back on with a slap. If I need the light, I'll pull it off.
 
Kinda liked this night shot...
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Rut-Row... I’m in deep now. What have I done?

Spy photos
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Got the new shoes strapped on today. I have a bit of rubbing on the plastic fender well cover but I’ll trim that up tomorrow. Not a huge step up in size from the 305’s which are a 34x12.5”- 18 size but they fill out the truck nicely.

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And my local guys at the tire shop spun them up true, and had me on my way.
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Rear is still high before adding drawers
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Spent a little time on my rear tire carrier spindle. I never got a spindle cap from Slee so it has been exposed for a year and a half. There was a little rust, and I needed to pull the bottom bearing with a puller, but once I got it all cleaned up and regreased I popped it back on and it rolls smoooooooth. I installed a trailer spindle end cap from a 5,200 pound trailer spindle. Came out nice. Should be sealed up for good.

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Lost light for the “after pics” trust me it looks amazing :rolleyes:
 
They fit no issues?? I assume spacers are involved. been eyeing some up as well, looks good

Yes I have spacers all around (1.25") and I have a 2.5-3" lift. All in all, I'll pound down the pinch weld and cut out some of the plastic fender well liner and go from there. I'll likely add some adjustable UCA's soon too.
 
Yes I have spacers all around (1.25") and I have a 2.5-3" lift. All in all, I'll pound down the pinch weld and cut out some of the plastic fender well liner and go from there. I'll likely add some adjustable UCA's soon too.

You were able to fit 35"s on a 2.5-3" lift on stock UCAs? Very interested in this for sure. Though, since I have a 98, I'd probably have to re-gear to 4.88 to compensate for the larger tires. Seems the '02 and later models have the different stock gearing that handles bigger than 33" tires with no problem.
 
You were able to fit 35"s on a 2.5-3" lift on stock UCAs? Very interested in this for sure. Though, since I have a 98, I'd probably have to re-gear to 4.88 to compensate for the larger tires. Seems the '02 and later models have the different stock gearing that handles bigger than 33" tires with no problem.
98-02 has 4.30 gears with 4 speed trans
03-07 has 4.10 gears and 5 speed trans
 
You were able to fit 35"s on a 2.5-3" lift on stock UCAs? Very interested in this for sure. Though, since I have a 98, I'd probably have to re-gear to 4.88 to compensate for the larger tires. Seems the '02 and later models have the different stock gearing that handles bigger than 33" tires with no problem.

I have been stair stepping from the factory tire, to 285's, to 305's, to now a 35... I haven't thought the power loss is unacceptable. It is all what you're used to and what you expect. After daily driving my FJ40 on 35's for 15 years, the 100 feels like a Hellcat Hemi!
 
Ahhhhhh, Land Cruiser Heaven...

Stopped by to check out all the goodies in the shop and do a little water tank research for my storage platform build I am starting. Thanks to Christo, Amory, and Jackson for the chat, and the free swag!

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Ahhhhhh, Land Cruiser Heaven...

Stopped by to check out all the goodies in the shop and do a little water tank research for my storage platform build I am starting. Thanks to Christo, Amory, and Jackson for the chat, and the free swag!

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Pure envy, wish I could drive up to Slee...and Dissent too
 

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