- Thread starter
- #381
It's amazing to have such talent right around the corner. The guys there are first class, always willing to help and uber knowledgable. I'm blessed to live so close to these fellas and a few other local cruiser gurus!
Builds 40 Guy Builds a 100 Series
- Thread starter REZARF
- Start date
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It's amazing to have such talent right around the corner. The guys there are first class, always willing to help and uber knowledgable. I'm blessed to live so close to these fellas and a few other local cruiser gurus!
Shipping makes everything so complicated, looking to either FCL or LCL to Taiwan, because of the weight/volume air freight is quite high.
- Thread starter
- #383
I've waited a while to post up this one since it was just a concept until I could really shake it out off-road. I am pleased to say after 2 months of driving and bouncing around on trails, highways and malls this is working as intended.
This is my escape tool, a Spyderco Assist knife. Spyderco and Slee Offroad are practically right next door to one another. Two awesome companies that I enjoy. This knife is designed to get you or someone else out of a vehicle, it has four main features that I like:
1. A nearly full serrated blade for cutting webbing (seat belts)
2. A rounded blunt tip so it can be used next to skin without fear of puncturing or stabbing someone.
3. A built in carbide glass breaker that pops out when you grip the knife in the closed position.
4. A built in emergency whistle.
I had kept in it the console top lid for a year or so, but then I got the idea to attach it to the headliner with some Velcro One Wrap stuff and it has worked out perfectly. It hasn't moved a millimeter in two months. I am stoked because it is really secure yet easy to access... even in, heaven forbid, a roll over pinned by the seat belt. I gave my wife and oldest son the rundown on how to use it, and my kid wants me to break a window just to show him how it works!
Anyhow, it is super simple but I thought that I'd add it to the thread.
I mounted it right between the sunroof handle and the front dome lights. I just wrapped it like 2-3 times and popped it on there.
You don't NEED one wrap, just any hook will work, but the one wrap doesn't make the headliner "pick" and get fuzzy when removed. It isn't as aggressive as normal hook velcro.
When you clamp the blade in the closed position this guy pops out, the back of the blade is contoured to fit your fingers and make it more comfy to really get a good grip.
Here's the knife when open, you can see the blade has a rounded blunt tip that you can slip between the seat belt or clothes of someone and not fear hurting them in the process. The LONG serrations are a plus on rope and webbing... other wise I despise serrations on a knife.
This is my escape tool, a Spyderco Assist knife. Spyderco and Slee Offroad are practically right next door to one another. Two awesome companies that I enjoy. This knife is designed to get you or someone else out of a vehicle, it has four main features that I like:
1. A nearly full serrated blade for cutting webbing (seat belts)
2. A rounded blunt tip so it can be used next to skin without fear of puncturing or stabbing someone.
3. A built in carbide glass breaker that pops out when you grip the knife in the closed position.
4. A built in emergency whistle.
I had kept in it the console top lid for a year or so, but then I got the idea to attach it to the headliner with some Velcro One Wrap stuff and it has worked out perfectly. It hasn't moved a millimeter in two months. I am stoked because it is really secure yet easy to access... even in, heaven forbid, a roll over pinned by the seat belt. I gave my wife and oldest son the rundown on how to use it, and my kid wants me to break a window just to show him how it works!
Anyhow, it is super simple but I thought that I'd add it to the thread.
I mounted it right between the sunroof handle and the front dome lights. I just wrapped it like 2-3 times and popped it on there.
You don't NEED one wrap, just any hook will work, but the one wrap doesn't make the headliner "pick" and get fuzzy when removed. It isn't as aggressive as normal hook velcro.
When you clamp the blade in the closed position this guy pops out, the back of the blade is contoured to fit your fingers and make it more comfy to really get a good grip.
Here's the knife when open, you can see the blade has a rounded blunt tip that you can slip between the seat belt or clothes of someone and not fear hurting them in the process. The LONG serrations are a plus on rope and webbing... other wise I despise serrations on a knife.
How did you mount those rear hatch LED lights?
- Thread starter
- #385
It's in this thread, scroll back to page 10
I’ve never used the Spyderco, so I can’t speak to it.
I will say that we have tested and evaluated many different window punch/seat belt cutters over the past 10 years. Some very cool/fancy big-name offerings and some from start-up tactical companies.
We have found that spring loaded window punches work the absolute best and don’t require a perfect 90 degree hit in a rigid corner like many of the knife-mounted “spikes”. I’ve seen many big, aggressive, strong dudes fail with non-spring-loaded glass breakers due to an angled hit that simply skips off of the glass.
Cutting a seatbelt is best done with a seatbelt cutter...a sharp blade or hook designed for cutting next to skin and (most importantly) cutting at a 45 degree angle.
The ResQme tool does both of these things really well for about $12.
Again...I have no experience with the Spyderco and it looks to be capable of far more (cutting rope etc.), I’d just recommend going to a junk yard and getting permission to shatter a few windows and cut a few belts on a car destined for the crusher so that you know your confidence is well-placed.
Awesome build!
- Thread starter
- #387
Well put. I have used rescue hooks from Benchmade... I have a few first responder friends who use this model. I have had trouble before getting a glass breaker to actual "pop" the glass how its intended to work. I have every reason to believe Spyderco did their homework, but you're right to suggest me doing my due diligence.
- Thread starter
- #388
I am now knee deep in staring my rear storage area. I'm going to knock up rear sleeping platform/shelf that will host some electronics and goodies, I'm in the rounding up parts phase.
In the meantime I went ahead and built the unicorn... The 1999 rear attic (like @LandCruiserPhil sells) but the 1999 grab handle placements are different making it a bit of an anomaly. I have rear a/c so I wantedl to keep access to the blower vents and the controls. I used a 24x48" piece of grid wall but will cut it down 18-20" for rear passenger headroom.
Before...
First up I fabbed up some aluminum brackets out of .125" 6061 Aluminum plate.
Round the corners with my high tech circle guide...
Drill where needed...
Test fit...
In the meantime I went ahead and built the unicorn... The 1999 rear attic (like @LandCruiserPhil sells) but the 1999 grab handle placements are different making it a bit of an anomaly. I have rear a/c so I wantedl to keep access to the blower vents and the controls. I used a 24x48" piece of grid wall but will cut it down 18-20" for rear passenger headroom.
Before...
First up I fabbed up some aluminum brackets out of .125" 6061 Aluminum plate.
Round the corners with my high tech circle guide...
Drill where needed...
Test fit...
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #389
I used P clamps (insulated wire clamps) to connect the gridwall to the brackets. I could only find plastic locally but now that I know it works I'll bite the bullet and buy the metal ones on line before painting the brackets.
Only took an hour so after the measuring was completed. Pretty easy to DIY, I have less than $25 into the project. That will increase another $8 or so after buying the metal clamps.
Now the question for you... Should I leave it black or color match the interior?
Only took an hour so after the measuring was completed. Pretty easy to DIY, I have less than $25 into the project. That will increase another $8 or so after buying the metal clamps.
Now the question for you... Should I leave it black or color match the interior?
- Thread starter
- #390
Had a buddy working in my driveway today so I jumped on the chance to use his impact driver and swap out the factory chassis tie-downs for some Trail Tailor ( @reevesci ) and man I gotta say I am excited about a good place to pull from the front now. I have an ARB sahara bar which has NO RECOVERY POINTS! What an oversight if you ask me. Anyhow the TT are really nicely done. THICK steel, nice powder coat and faster shipping than Amazon Prime.
Looking forward to not needing these on the trail, but I have no doubt if called upon they'll do the job nicely.
The factory tie downs... I have used them in a pinch but they are not rated for pulling. Would I yank on them if I were really stuck, sure. Am I confident they'd hold for heavy use, nope. The Trail Tailors increase the safety factor many times over I am sure.
Ahhh, and I am back to "Hey you, hook this onto the red thing under there."
Beefy formed steel. Nice bright red powder coat, these are good deal for what you are getting if you ask me! Thanks @reevesci
Looking forward to not needing these on the trail, but I have no doubt if called upon they'll do the job nicely.
The factory tie downs... I have used them in a pinch but they are not rated for pulling. Would I yank on them if I were really stuck, sure. Am I confident they'd hold for heavy use, nope. The Trail Tailors increase the safety factor many times over I am sure.
Ahhh, and I am back to "Hey you, hook this onto the red thing under there."
Beefy formed steel. Nice bright red powder coat, these are good deal for what you are getting if you ask me! Thanks @reevesci
Great thread, I’ve learned a ton and will definitely steal some ideas!
Where did source the grid wall for the attic? It looks great, but I haven’t had a lot of success finding that one.
Just grabbed air of those Trail Tailor tow eyes too!
Where did source the grid wall for the attic? It looks great, but I haven’t had a lot of success finding that one.
Just grabbed air of those Trail Tailor tow eyes too!
- Thread starter
- #392
I just looked up a "retail store supplier" here in town, they sell all kinds of racks for clothes, gridwall, product display kind of stuff. You can just search grid wall as well. I had a lot of hits when I searched.
- Thread starter
- #393
I had a little rubbing at 3/4 full lock on the front after installing the 35s. Out came the 3# hammer to massage the pinch weld to get it to play nice. I removed the fender inner covers and took the big hammer to the pinch weld, I hammered back about 6" or so.
Before with inner fender removed:
After a little persuasion with the hammer it folded right over.
I have had a lot of success with this udercoating from 3M. I used it on my trailer build and it goes on nice and thick. I don't think I have one rock chip under my trailer where this was used. I soaked the pinch weld front and rear (read behind where I folded it over) with this stuff and it stays flexible and dries quick. Note: it will clog up your nozzle if you don't run it clean upside down per the instructions.
Experience tells me I need clips on hand for working on plastic on my cruiser. I finally just ordered up interior panel clips and these for the inner fender wells. They are not exactly like Mr. Toyota's but they do take care of any plastic that might rattle from being lazy and not replacing all the clips I break during mods. I got a 20 pack for about 7 bucks on amazon.
Nice and clean and secure. Easy peasy.
Before with inner fender removed:
After a little persuasion with the hammer it folded right over.
I have had a lot of success with this udercoating from 3M. I used it on my trailer build and it goes on nice and thick. I don't think I have one rock chip under my trailer where this was used. I soaked the pinch weld front and rear (read behind where I folded it over) with this stuff and it stays flexible and dries quick. Note: it will clog up your nozzle if you don't run it clean upside down per the instructions.
Experience tells me I need clips on hand for working on plastic on my cruiser. I finally just ordered up interior panel clips and these for the inner fender wells. They are not exactly like Mr. Toyota's but they do take care of any plastic that might rattle from being lazy and not replacing all the clips I break during mods. I got a 20 pack for about 7 bucks on amazon.
Nice and clean and secure. Easy peasy.
- Thread starter
- #394
I had a day off and it was snowing so I decided to knock out another little project that has taken me forever. I decided to pop my switch panel into the overhead dome light console to be ready to wire it for all my lights in one spot.
Ah... factory virgin plastic. Lets get out the tools!
Measuring and taping off the "hole" I thought a coping saw (blade pictured) would be the right tool but after a little time I realized a sharp exacto knife and a good score line was all it took to get a fast clean cut.
Here it is after opening the front "garage door" panel. The rear of the interior pocket needed to be opened as well to allow all my wiring to fit. I did keep the lone screw mounting tab to help keep the console up in the headliner. I wouldn't want it to pop off at the wrong time and other than the spring clamps this screw is the ONLY hard fastener that keeps it up on the roof.
Test fit... it is nice when things fit first try. As you can see I am going to run:
Winch Power ON/OFF must be engaged to operate the winch.
Winch momentary IN/OUT controls
LED Light bar on roof rack
Off Road Lights will control my Hella 4000's up front
Rock lights will control 2 LED Strips on my sliders for when I am wheeling at night or camping and want the ambient light.
Rear LED Roof rack lights to come on when I switch them, and when I am in reverse (already wired).
And the finished product. It came out clean on the first try. Gotta' love it when a plan comes together.
Ah... factory virgin plastic. Lets get out the tools!
Measuring and taping off the "hole" I thought a coping saw (blade pictured) would be the right tool but after a little time I realized a sharp exacto knife and a good score line was all it took to get a fast clean cut.
Here it is after opening the front "garage door" panel. The rear of the interior pocket needed to be opened as well to allow all my wiring to fit. I did keep the lone screw mounting tab to help keep the console up in the headliner. I wouldn't want it to pop off at the wrong time and other than the spring clamps this screw is the ONLY hard fastener that keeps it up on the roof.
Test fit... it is nice when things fit first try. As you can see I am going to run:
Winch Power ON/OFF must be engaged to operate the winch.
Winch momentary IN/OUT controls
LED Light bar on roof rack
Off Road Lights will control my Hella 4000's up front
Rock lights will control 2 LED Strips on my sliders for when I am wheeling at night or camping and want the ambient light.
Rear LED Roof rack lights to come on when I switch them, and when I am in reverse (already wired).
And the finished product. It came out clean on the first try. Gotta' love it when a plan comes together.
- Thread starter
- #395
This past weekend I got to get out and play. Great weather, great friend, lots of spirited driving, and a DEAD SILENT camp ground with only the songs of Coyotes to lull us to sleep. Two 100's, two dudes, 170 miles in the dirt over 2 days. Steaks on paper plates, sleeping in the rig, one flat tire, 2 bald eagles, added 100 pounds of mud to the cruiser, a nice camp fire, no cell reception... it was an epic weekend.
Pawnee National Grasslands... in north-eastern Colorado right below Nebraska's panhandle
Nearly 600,000 miles on the odometer between the two cruisers
Trails were a little muddy from snow melt and varied from 2 track graded dirt roads to barely there single tracks with grass on the trail.
Camp for the night... we were ISOLATED, I love big open country when no one else is around. We had a few hours of epic star gazing only to be interrupted by a near full blood-red moon rise. We got the best of both worlds.
Some of the more untouched tracks.
.
Pawnee National Grasslands... in north-eastern Colorado right below Nebraska's panhandle
Nearly 600,000 miles on the odometer between the two cruisers
Trails were a little muddy from snow melt and varied from 2 track graded dirt roads to barely there single tracks with grass on the trail.
Camp for the night... we were ISOLATED, I love big open country when no one else is around. We had a few hours of epic star gazing only to be interrupted by a near full blood-red moon rise. We got the best of both worlds.
Some of the more untouched tracks.
- Thread starter
- #396
Still dialing in my camping in the rig setup as we prepare to move this summer to big sky country. Sleeping in the rig makes sense to me as we will be in big bear country, and until I figure out the do's and don'ts... I'd prefer a sheet metal tent to ripstop nylon for now. 
I picked up a Exped Megamat 10 for my wife. I "might" use it on occasion when I go solo on off-road trips. Wow, what a mattress... it really is worth the hype and cost.
Here is my camp/kitchen set up. I have a MSR water bladder hanging from the drivers side rear corner of the roof rack. Otherwise it is a kitchen box (Pelican 1600) a partner steel stove and cooler/fridge depending on the menu/number of folks/temps/duration of the trip.
Slept like a baby.
I picked up a Exped Megamat 10 for my wife. I "might" use it on occasion when I go solo on off-road trips. Wow, what a mattress... it really is worth the hype and cost.
Here is my camp/kitchen set up. I have a MSR water bladder hanging from the drivers side rear corner of the roof rack. Otherwise it is a kitchen box (Pelican 1600) a partner steel stove and cooler/fridge depending on the menu/number of folks/temps/duration of the trip.
Slept like a baby.
- Thread starter
- #397
2 days of spirited driving... 2 hours of using a pressure washer at 29* and 20 mph winds on a creeper with my Gore-tex jacket on. Absolute misery but got the undercarriage squeaky clean. My buddy spent $30 at the local car wash to get his clean, ouch. I filled 1/2 to 3/4 of my wheel barrow with mud from the driveway, and that was AFTER destroying a local coin wash with $8 bucks of quarters to knock off the big stuff. There's an honest 2" of mud under the entire area of the 100. What a mess.
@woody Brian, these shots are you for you! IH8MUD
@woody Brian, these shots are you for you! IH8MUD
Wow what an awesome build and read, I just read every thread start to finish. Now I should get on with my day..
- Thread starter
- #400
Thanks for the kind words, it keeps me motivated to post up.
I agree, I had a wobble on the way home and I knew it was chunks of this mud in my wheels, even a golf ball sized mud ball can throw off the balance at highway speeds. This was the 3rd worst mud I have played in. It is behind a mud bog I played in down in Texas near the Canadian river, and NOTHING WILL EVER beat Georgia RED CLAY! That stuff is seems to be from the devil himself.
