Builds 40 Guy Builds a 100 Series (1 Viewer)

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I installed (sort of, more on that later) a set of Bora Motor Sports wheel spacers for the 100 today. Man, the quality of these spacers is simply awesome. The fitment was perfect, no machining marks, individually serialized, quality all around. I got mine in the 1.25" thickness but they are made to order so you can spec any size you'd like. They took a few weeks to ship but they seem worth the wait. They come with a lifetime warranty and I am stoked about that since I believe they'll stand behind the product so you know they are making a product they are proud of.

Nicely machined... includes the set of acorn nuts.
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You can see the fronts on top in this pic have been milled to accept and fit the front drive flange on the hub. The rears have the hub centric lips milled into them. The fit was outstanding when mounted up.
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Serial number... nice hard anodizing.
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The fronts really are a work of art. Lots going on here if you look at the details, wall thickness, undercuts, material removal... now to find a thin walled socket to pull the drive flanges without removing the spacers (think trail fix for a blown diff).
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Cleaned the mating surface of the brake rotor, applied a super thin coat of anti-seize against the mating surface and along the hub flange just to eliminate any corrosion/bonding between the two. I am not sure how our Colorado chemicals used for snow will react with the aluminum so this was a precaution and I am not sure it is necessary. Then I added a drop of red thread locker onto the wheel studs and torqued them down, re-torqued them again, and I will again after I get some miles on them.
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Here is where the before and after pics come in. However, I broke 2! of the wheel studs off the rear of the 100's rear axle on the drivers side... :rant: I swear I am going to have all of them replaced before too long! I have them coming in tonight and I should be able to wrap up in the morning.
 
I may be picking a set of these up. Looking forward to hearing how they hold up..
 
Slee is local to me but I preferred the black color to the bright blue so you wouldn't immediately see them under the wheel like blue would show. These are every bit as quality as other high end spacers like the Slee and Spydertrax. Worth every penny if you're shopping for a set.
 
@REZARF .... those spacers look NICE! I'm on the fence between 1.25 and 1.5. I run 275/70/18 KO2 on the 2004 LX wheels (soon to be 07 Tundra wheels). My setup currently sits just inboard of the fenders. I want the sidewalls to be just beyond the fender. The 1.25 looks like it will be right on the edge. Very curious to see what your installed result looks like.
 
I recently had a discussion with 2001LC about this issue as well.
I wouldn't recommend putting something like grease/anti-seize between two mating surfaces where you want to have friction. What keeps the wheel mated to the hub isnt just a shear force from the lugs, but also the static friction between the hub and the wheel (or in this case spacer).
 
I'd like to check these out when you get them finished up. I plan on switching over to 18" Tundra wheels when it's time for new tires, and I HATE the bright blue Slee/Spidertrax spacers.
 
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I recently had a discussion with 2001LC about this issue as well.
I wouldn't recommend putting something like grease/anti-seize between two mating surfaces where you want to have friction. What keeps the wheel mated to the hub isnt just a shear force from the lugs, but also the static friction between the hub and the wheel (or in this case spacer).

Interesting discussion for sure. I'll disagree; my theory being that an exceedingly thin coat will reduce/eliminate the corrosion due to dissimilar metals while having almost no effect on the static friction because none of these surfaces are actually flat but have fairly rough topography on a micro scale such that the surfaces effectively lock together when tightly clamped by the lug force.

On a less technical note, I really dig the black spacer option, especially fitting for my low bling rusty black motif.
 
I recently had a discussion with 2001LC about this issue as well.
I wouldn't recommend putting something like grease/anti-seize between two mating surfaces where you want to have friction. What keeps the wheel mated to the hub isnt just a shear force from the lugs, but also the static friction between the hub and the wheel (or in this case spacer).

By all means feel free to disagree, I'm trying to avoid galling between the steel and aluminum. If five 14mm hardened wheel studs can't take the load at one corner I'm screwed either way.

I'd like to check these out when you get them finished up. I plan on switching over to 18" Tundra wheels when it's time for new tires, and I HATE the bright blue Slee/Spidertrax spacers.

Come on over, the wheel stud drama continues.

Interesting discussion for sure. I'll disagree; my theory being that an exceedingly thin coat will reduce/eliminate the corrosion due to dissimilar metals while having almost no effect on the static friction because none of these surfaces are actually flat but have fairly rough topography on a micro scale such that the surfaces effectively lock together when tightly clamped by the lug force.

On a less technical note, I really dig the black spacer option, especially fitting for my low bling rusty black motif.

I agree Andy. Ay shear force is minimal at best in this application.
 
By all means feel free to disagree, I'm trying to avoid galling between the steel and aluminum. If five 14mm hardened wheel studs can't take the load at one corner I'm screwed either way.

Did you have galling/corrosion before with your aluminum wheels on the hub surface?

Hoping you haven't had to replace any broken front lugs. Basically almost the same amount of work and time as getting to the bearings.
How much work is it changing out a rear lug?
 
@REZARF .... those spacers look NICE! I'm on the fence between 1.25 and 1.5. I run 275/70/18 KO2 on the 2004 LX wheels (soon to be 07 Tundra wheels). My setup currently sits just inboard of the fenders. I want the sidewalls to be just beyond the fender. The 1.25 looks like it will be right on the edge. Very curious to see what your installed result looks like.

I'm running a 305/65-18 which is BFGs 34x12.5" tire. I was mainly concerned about clearing my UCA,and my inner rear fenders as I had rubbing off road on both.

I am just past flush, maybe 3/8-1/2 past the fender with the 1.25" spacers. Doing it again I'd likely opt for the 1.5" or wider. After my lift install I'll know for sure how much wider I could have gone. I'll likely step up to 35's on my next tire selection so the 1.25" were already proven good at that size so I landed there.

Did you have galling/corrosion before with your aluminum wheels on the hub surface?

Hoping you haven't had to replace any broken front lugs. Basically almost the same amount of work and time as getting to the bearings.
How much work is it changing out a rear lug?

The rears are simple... Just pull the tire, caliper, and rotor to replace. Just learn how to back the parking brake shoe adjuster and the rotor slides off. If you don't, it'll move but not pop free.... AMHIK. The fronts truly suck!
 
It's too dark for my before/after shots I'll post up tomorrow.
 
Here are a few pics of before and after...

Before...
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And After...
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My iPhone has too much "fish-eye" to make a good comparison in the pics but it does change the overall look. I wouldn't hesitate to go 1.5" if you are adding a lift but again i'll have to confirm post lift to see if I get into the fenders at all. The stance width is most noticeable and different looking from the front and rear when looking dead on. I always felt the 100 had too much of a freight train look to it with a wide body and the wheels tucked up too narrow underneath... this is a good mod to alleviate the rubbing but I gain some preferred aesthetics as well. YMMV.

Again a little more tire poking out...
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Got out for a day of shooting yesterday with a friend. We got the 100 dirty and found a few ledges and rocks to play on along the way. He's ready to buy a 100 for his wife now!

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The stance looks great now, i love my 1.25" spacers too, did you apply threadlock on the acorn nuts to the LC wheel stud. I did that with me just to make sure they don't rattle loose.
 
Yes, I torqued them down with some red loctite... And I hope it doesn't come back to bite me.
 
I had a hair-brained idea to take 2 twin cylinder air compressors from Costco and make one QUAD-Cylinder compressor for my 100. I don't want to clutter this thread and I'll do a summary write up thread but here's a link to the build thread on my local forum... My quad compressor build... - Rising Sun Member Forums

Here's a few pics for you guys...

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