4 door Fj45 on 80 series chassis (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

If you can maybe more pics of the yard, is that a camaro or corvette covered in Ivy/Vine ?
The rusted car by generator, what is that ? early 50's something, don't recognize the emblem.
 
That thing was given to me. It is indeed an early to mid 50's car. Can't remember what exactly but it's a 4 door and I, believe it or not prefer 2 doors ( I know.... I know). I'll send pics of it all later.
 
Ok. I had to move the doubler's oil cooler from where I'd installed it previously. Took some pics from under the truck, just so I can get back to the posting routine

20240924_154818.webp


20240924_154833.webp
 
Having to purchase that generator was unexpected and it slowed down my progress big time. My plan before this ordeal was to completely rebuild my axles, install lockers, start the engine and try it out some then once I'd be happy with everything, take it apart and paint every thing...... Things never go as planned , but with enough patience, we'll get there. The plan is still the same but it will take me a bit more time.
 
Today, we installed the Black box's electric oil pump. I decided to shove it in a spot where it wasn't likely to get splashed continually. Clearly it will get submerged during the occasional river crossing , but that won't happen often.
I bolted the suckeron the passenger side floor, about an inch and a half below the firewall and right behind the splash guard. That was a fairly easy install.
I prefer using stainless fasteners for obvious reasons. No need to get into too many details. Here are some pics of what we did.

20240926_131715.webp


20240926_111729.webp


20240926_112435.webp


20240926_124409.webp


20240926_124438.webp


20240926_110049.webp
 
We welded the stainless stove bolts to the floor to make it easy to take the pump out without the need of extra hands or tools to hold from the inside.
I will use the filter pictured in post #549 ,right from the drain plug located under the NWF Black box. The Tilton pump will be automatically activated by a thermostat as soon as the oil in the Bb reaches a temperature of 180°. The pump will then move the oil to the oil cooler which will in turn send it to the top return port of my 1gallon capacity Harley Davidson oil bag.
The Black box will be fed by gravity from the output port located under the oil tank and into the vent port located at the top of the doubler.
This should keep the Black box happy and prevent it from barfing fluids from the seals.
The wife hasn't come back yet, but that system will hopefully work flawlessly and keep me out of the kennel.😅
We made a bracket for the filter. Tomorrow I'll do the plumbing🥳
 
I forgot to mention that I will install a temperature gauge inside the truck, so I can also keep an eye on the black box's cooling system 's operation.do you guys think i should allow the cooling fan to operate continually or should it only turn on when the pump is on ?🤔
 
I forgot to mention that I will install a temperature gauge inside the truck, so I can also keep an eye on the black box's cooling system 's operation.do you guys think i should allow the cooling fan to operate continually or should it only turn on when the pump is on ?🤔
I’m looking into them a bit, and after reading 1000 posts on forums and talking with both guys, I think it’s fine to have the fan kick on with the pump, but I would strive for a lower temperature in the box. 180 seems hot to me for oil.
I have a lot of hydrostatic machines, and the ones that perform the best for the longest keep the oil 110 to 130. In addition the Mack trucks have a transmission and rear axle temp gauges, and the transmission will typically run 140 at the high end, and the rear driving axle will run 110-130, rear coasting will run 110 or so, summertime temps.

In addition to all that, I would double check running the tank into the top of the black box, I think it should be the fill port, with a way to keep the black box from being completely filled. IIRC there are seal problems along with overheating from being a full case.

All just my opinion though, no direct experience with the underdrives. I’ll look for those posts.
 
I forgot to mention that I will install a temperature gauge inside the truck, so I can also keep an eye on the black box's cooling system 's operation.do you guys think i should allow the cooling fan to operate continually or should it only turn on when the pump is on ?🤔
That might be a question for NWF but I think that depends on normal operating temperature of your oil. I’d bet that you would want to have the oil warm enough to lubricant properly, but not too hot to promote the oil from breaking down. I’d put some sort of temperature switch on the fan if it were me but I tend to over engineer things.

Glad to see come progress on this!!
 
That might be a question for NWF but I think that depends on normal operating temperature of your oil. I’d bet that you would want to have the oil warm enough to lubricant properly, but not too hot to promote the oil from breaking down. I’d put some sort of temperature switch on the fan if it were me but I tend to over engineer things.

Glad to see come progress on this!!
I think NWF will tell him that having a tank at all is a problem, they promote a closed loop from drain to fill plug with a set amount of oil, with a tall hose on the fill, terminating in a check valve that will close in a rollover situation.
 
I think NWF will tell him that having a tank at all is a problem, they promote a closed loop from drain to fill plug with a set amount of oil, with a tall hose on the fill, terminating in a check valve that will close in a rollover situation.
Maybe true, but they are also based out of a completely different climate and I’d wonder if heat was a problem in BC.
 
Maybe true, but they are also based out of a completely different climate and I’d wonder if heat was a problem in BC.
Kris is super helpful and I believe he is aware of what I was needing. I believe he recommends coolers on all the installs, but just a simple pump and lines, like a power steering cooler, just a little something for a little extra capacity as much as cooling. I will say that the need for the cooler was kinda mentioned after the fact.
Also, in just my experience with my machinery and trucks, oil might run slightly cooler in a lower ambient temp (winter) but once it’s heated up it’s pretty close to summertime temps with a clean cooler. And I have one machine that hold 150 gallon of hydraulic oil. More typical to hold 10 to 50 depending on size of machine. Rears and transmissions hold 5 gallons gear lube. So in my mind, a little case that hold half a quart will heat up no matter how cold the air is.
 
That might be a question for NWF but I think that depends on normal operating temperature of your oil. I’d bet that you would want to have the oil warm enough to lubricant properly, but not too hot to promote the oil from breaking down. I’d put some sort of temperature switch on the fan if it were me but I tend to over engineer things.

Glad to see come progress on this!!
Yes. I did consider installing one also. Just forgot to mention it. I think it's actually important to be able to to turn it on and off manually. I'll make sure to remember that when we get to wiring. Thanks for the comment !
 
Maybe true, but they are also based out of a completely different climate and I’d wonder if heat was a problem in BC.
They actually told me that I needed a tank to add to the Bb's oil capacity , but i do see how having the black box completely full could also make matters worse 🤔 . I might have to call Chris before doing more. I'll post whatever I find out here for everyone interested in this matter.
 
They actually told me that I needed a tank to add to the Bb's oil capacity , but i do see how having the black box completely full could also make matters worse 🤔 . I might have to call Chris before doing more. I'll post whatever I find out here for everyone interested in this matter.
I think I am mistaken on the tank, as you say here. I was pretty sure he told me no tank, just lines but I could be wrong. Just make sure the tank is vented.

Here's a link to a great solution by MountNGoat and others; I think he kind of pioneered the solution.
The meat of the conversation is on page 3 posts 52-58 or so.

There are others on pirate and so forth but this really gets down to the solution.
 
I’m looking into them a bit, and after reading 1000 posts on forums and talking with both guys, I think it’s fine to have the fan kick on with the pump, but I would strive for a lower temperature in the box. 180 seems hot to me for oil.
I have a lot of hydrostatic machines, and the ones that perform the best for the longest keep the oil 110 to 130. In addition the Mack trucks have a transmission and rear axle temp gauges, and the transmission will typically run 140 at the high end, and the rear driving axle will run 110-130, rear coasting will run 110 or so, summertime temps.

In addition to all that, I would double check running the tank into the top of the black box, I think it should be the fill port, with a way to keep the black box from being completely filled. IIRC there are seal problems along with overheating from being a full case.

All just my opinion though, no direct experience with the underdrives. I’ll look for those posts.
I'll look again at my thermostat and make sure it's in fact a 180° or less . There is a thread on here about that specific issue ,and I think everything i got to build this cooling system was based upon what I saw others do with success in it..... it's been too long since then .... I need to go take a look again. All great input, guys ! Thanks.😄
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom