4.88's or 5.29's

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I don't know. I have 4.56 gears in mine, run 33s as street tires, run 70mph daily without drama and my right foot never gets tired.

When put on the 36x12.50 TSL/SX for the woods, she bogs down a bit, but I don't run them on the highway anymore. However, before I got my trailer, I used to run them to/from trail rides. They would Cruise at 65 or so, according to GPS.

When I still had stock gears and went to 33x12.50 BFG MTs, it really didn't make that much of a difference. 35x12.50 MTRs slowed her down a bit, but I was always able to maintain highway speeds.

I suppose in hindsight, going with 4.88s would have made more sense, but 4.56 and 33s are fine for daily driving IMO. Either that or 19 years of ownership has just made me comfortable with going a bit slower. I'm OK with that too.
 
I am very happy with my 4.88's ... they work well at highway speed and seem to do fine off road. I would probably go 5.29's if it was not a daily driver and it was used more off road than on road.
 
He has a 3FE. ('91)

4.88's for 33's, 5.29's for 35's and up.


Where is that a law? :confused:

If I had a 3Fe and was going to run 33's, I would run 5:29's.

No, it won't be a high speed rocket ship. No, it won't get better MPG :lol: It's just what I'd want...

It would pull like a freight train though...


Talk to iron pig offroad. I was under the impression that he was going to be selling some center diff regearing kits, so you can lower your gears in high and low all from the center differential.

Only one set of gears to buy, only one differential to open up.

Not to bog you down in choices, but I think this solution is pretty slick.

uhh...:confused: I think you have the wrong transfer case...


5.29's because your next set of tires will be 35's :D Why do it twice?

Trudat.

Hmmm... when I went through this the concensus was 4.88's for 35's and now it's 5.29's? Of course

Are you listening to the 1Fz guys? Or 3Fe guys?

The concensus from the 3fe owners (or previous owners) is this:

5.29's.


end thread.

trudat.

I am very happy with my 4.88's ... they work well at highway speed and seem to do fine off road. I would probably go 5.29's if it was not a daily driver and it was used more off road than on road.

Is yours a 1Fz? Or 3Fe?


No, you are missing that he has a 1991 with the 3FE. I have seen relative consensus that 5.29's for 35's with the 3FE is an excellent fit, understanding that the rest of the '91/'92 gearing may not be identical (trans gearing) to the 93-97.

This is not a statement for the 93-97 where you would need some specific usage goals to select 5.29's for 35's (like admitting 37's are the new 35's :D).


Which I didn't think there was any... Unless it was .03%

What I did think was different was both the 1Fz and the 3Fe had 4:10 gears... And the same overdrives...

But not stock tire sizes... :hhmm: So how can a 1Fz have the same gears as a 3Fe when the 1Fz came with bigger tires?

Now see, I thought the FzJ80 had a 3:90 gear this whole time...

I know the gear is a 4:10-11, but the Fj80 had it to, right?

But a 3Fe 80 had? 28's stock?

So how can the final drives be the same in two LC's with different outer diameter tires and the same gear ratios?


(and I could be wrong... But I thought the Fz came with 31's and the Fj 28's)

specify your "Fj" please.

Fj's came w/ 15" rims. FzJ's, 16's... hence the more metric sizes.

Again, Fj is 3Fe.

Again, FzJ is 1Fz

Same tranny till 94 or 95... A440/A442 Same planetary geared 1st, torque rating. "school bus tranny"

96-97 had the A343.
 
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I feel better now, I should be getting my ride back on the road this weekend with the 315's and 4.88's. I missed the 3FE part.
 
That should cover it, but I still don't understand the lack of power

You don't understand how running an engine barely suited for a 3,000 lb Jeep Cherokee in a 5,500 80 lacks power :flipoff2:?

It always shocks me how Toyota people get excited because you can actually cruise at 65 mph while getting 10 mpg. That's barely baseline functioning for a modern vehicle. If you built that platform today, you would sell zero.

Big inline sixes are extremely well suited for going one gear ratio lower than the paper charts tell you, because that is what puts you in the heart of the power band for a lifted and heavier truck on larger tires, and you typically see some improvement in fuel economy because it keep the stupid pedal off the floor.

These platforms are about the consistency of the torque curve offroad even under controlled throttle. It is so driver friendly. Gear it right and forget about driving 85 mph on the freeway in a lifted 4x4 on big tires.
 
Where is that a law? :confused:

If I had a 3Fe and was going to run 33's, I would run 5:29's.

I would, too. I was just trying to keep it simple so people would stop talking about 4.56's, which is an utter waste of money for a 1ZFE much less a 3FE.

There are no laws, but I think I have only ever seen one person in 12 years who has complained his gears were too low (on this board and not liking 4.88's for 36's :hhmm:), but I have seen an awful lot of people do it twice because they kept doing gear chart calcs on the web.

Don't be scared of 3,000 RPM at 70 mph. That's called a sweet spot :flipoff2:
 
Talk to iron pig offroad. I was under the impression that he was going to be selling some center diff regearing kits, so you can lower your gears in high and low all from the center differential.

Only one set of gears to buy, only one differential to open up.

Not to bog you down in choices, but I think this solution is pretty slick.
Is this for the 80 series? Nothing on their site and Ive never hear of this product.

Anyone else know about this? I need to do mine so would be cool
if this were possible.

Thanks.
 
Is this for the 80 series? Nothing on their site and Ive never hear of this product.

Anyone else know about this? I need to do mine so would be cool
if this were possible.

Thanks.

I DO KNOW there is a set like that for a Fj60 case... I've never heard of one for a 80 though...

And I searched...

I think dude got his cases crossed...
 
FWIW, I went from 31s to 33s to 35s all with stock gears. If you can't maintain highway speed on the flats with 33s, you should look at your 19 year old motor.

X2! I have 33's on mine and i can do 70 on my 3FE without any problems. Something is wrong with your motor, maybe is time to upgrade or rebuild...:hhmm:
 
X2! I have 33's on mine and i can do 70 on my 3FE without any problems. Something is wrong with your motor, maybe is time to upgrade or rebuild...:hhmm:

There is absolutely nothing wrong with my motor. I can drive 70, 80 or even 90. This theory is incorrect. So maybe explain what a specific circumstance would be that one should regear...
 
Is this for the 80 series? Nothing on their site and Ive never hear of this product.

Anyone else know about this? I need to do mine so would be cool
if this were possible.

Thanks.

I called IPOR and they have these for the 80 but they are out of stock and expect some in soon.

Would someone mind explaining what the advantages of this setup would be over traditional regearing?
 
I called IPOR and they have these for the 80 but they are out of stock and expect some in soon.

Would someone mind explaining what the advantages of this setup would be over traditional regearing?


IF ANY, or POSSIBLY... Stronger b/c the lower the final drive gears, the thinner they and the pinion get... (Wonder if the new TC gears are thinner? :hhmm:)

But that's reaching, and prolly VERY wrong...

And you'd have to do some fancy math to get the right size tire to get the speedo to match up...

And I'm sure it'll cost less with labor to do this than do gears... :rolleyes:

Another advantage would be running 36's on up to 44's with 5:29's and having the proper gearing...


I think they're called "final drives" for a reason, and that's where I want my gears...

Tickles the krap out of me when ppl knee jerk b/c they think they're on to a more economical solution to a problem...

Here's a thought... Don't buy an 80 out of the gate. Plenty of other good and more efficient 4wds out there...

There are no power and MPG problems reported every 5 posts in 79-95 Tech :confused:
 
There are no power and MPG problems reported every 5 posts in 79-95 Tech :confused:

Is that why they all want to put a 5vzfe or a 2/3rz in their trucks? :flipoff2:

You're also not going to find "what do I do with all of this free space in my 4runner??" threads in that section either. You work with what you've got.

If you want bigger tires, you should re-gear. The nifty notion of re-gearing the center diff on an 80 means you're only opening up one component to re-gear.

The fewer components that get touched means the fewer components that might have been installed incorrectly.

I certainly don't think it is a superior method, just a different way to get to the finish line and to each their own. Also, if you're trying to cross that "finish line" on tires bigger than 33's you better be ready to get there slowly or after spending serious cash to make up for the modifications you've done. Toyota didn't design these things to be on 37's or 42's or even 35's so anything you do to take it away from what it was set up for, you are going to have to compensate elsewhere to make up the change. Gearing, engine, steering, driveline - none of that junk was intended to put up with the punishment that lifting and more rubber does. It just happened to be over-engineered enough to get you by.

:beer:
 
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I'd love to know the ratio, or ratios of this new wonder gear... And how much that bad boy is...

And yes I searched, and no, I'm not going to call them...

And why would you not regear diffs you can add traction diffs to at the same time??? :confused:

That's smart... Regear the center and wheel with the same open diffs... Or regear the center and make the E diffs EVEN WEAKER, if you already have them... Like I said, smart...


Is that why they all want to put a 5vzfe or a 2/3rz in their trucks?

:lol: Now who's reaching? All? try 2 or 3 on the whole board in that section... If it's not a 22R, I don't want it. I'm not a candy ass that wants pie in the sky power with pie in the sky MPG...

I'm a realist... A turtle and a wabbit got in a race one time... :D The wabbit had to stop for gas too many times and the turtle won... :flipoff2:
 
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Here was the for-sale post.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/363930-fj80-uzj100-transfer-case-low-range-gears.html

Again, this isn't a solution for someone with a 3fe and 35s+ or a 1fz and 37s+ but lets say you did do 4.88s and 35s then decided to go to 37s or bigger (this is not a giant logical leap) you could still do this kit and get that gearing back without having to crack open both of your axle differentials again to put in 5.29s.

I told him it would be awesome if they could get the 4low gears to close to a 4.0 or something (similar to Marlin's crawler t-case gears) but I understand the case most likely wouldn't handle the size of that gear. That would be cheaper than getting a crawler box and cutting up your floor!

It isn't a silver bullet, but it seems that nothing in the vehicle modification market really ever is.

I haven't installed them yet, waiting on some other bits for the bigger transmission project to come in, then I'll be slapping these gears in. But I'm currently only on 33s.
 
Wow, this is prolly one of the more heated threads in the 80 section that I've seen (that doesn't involve sumotoy, landtank, and/or shotts :deadhorse:).

Opinions are just that, opinions. I drove a truck with a 22R for years at alitutude and never cried, of course I never got a speeding ticket either.:D

Now I drive a SC'd bored out FZJ80. Is it fast? No, but I can easily maintain highway speeds (or slightly exceed them;)). I run 37s and 4.88s and this appears to be the equivalent of stock gearing as my speedo reads correctly.

In my minitruck, I needed lower gears for off-road due to the manual transmission. With an auto in the 80, I drive with two feet and have way more control than I had with my mini and a crawlerbox.

My .02, please don't go pirate on me.:hillbilly:
 
Any solid info on these "final drive" kits?

Do we know about the availability or the rough cost of these kits from IPOR?

Seeing as how a kit for both front and back is $649 including the install kit, this should be a lot cheaper hopefully.

Without starting a battle of opinions, could the more technically knowledgeable members explain the pros and cons of both scenarios?

Thanks.
 
Do we know about the availability or the rough cost of these kits from IPOR?

I was quoted 700.00 from IPOR but as stated it's not for my 1991. :crybaby:
 

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