@2021 LC200
If you don’t already know about it, bobistheoilguy.com is THE place to nerd out on lubricants.
If you don’t already know about it, bobistheoilguy.com is THE place to nerd out on lubricants.
3UR-FE timing chain tensioner and oil viscosity
- Thread starter 2021 LC200
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Per internet search apparently Toyota 0W20 is 36.1 cSt at 40 C and 8.5 cSt at 100C
Per data above, PUP 5W30 is 56.3/10.3 cSt and QFS 5W30 is 66.65/11.6 cSt. Quite an increase actually in viscosity and during transition from startup to full operating temps.
Also looked up TGMO (Toyote Genuine Motor Oil) 5W30 which is 56.2 cSt/9.95 cSt at 40/100 C. PUP 5W30 is viscosity wise about identical, so probably will give that a go.
With the 3UR-FE originally designed for 5W30 it really puts the question around the suitability of 0W20 and the point made that bureaucrats at EPA are not engineers and/or interested in durability. Maybe I change my oil to 5W30 before 35k miles...
I typically run a heavier grade in my cars than called for. Im running 0W-40 PP Euro in my F150 Ecoboost.
- Thread starter
- #23
I know, trying to discuss this in context with Land Cruiser 3UR-FE owners and experiences. Switching to 5W30.
Thanks all for the responses!
Hi All, Interesting thread about chain rattle. I experienced a little of this not long after the Harrop 2650 install. After MUCH research, I started using an oil product called Engine Shield. Amazing stuff. Engine is soooo much quieter, revs more freely (not that it doesn't with the blower), and great oil pressure hot or cold. I also use a fuel additive with Premium 98 from the same company. Check out DXP Australia – Diesel and Petrol Fuel Additive for Improved Vehicle Performance - https://dxpaustralia.com.au
- Thread starter
- #25
You have the 570 with the 3UR-FE? What viscosity oil are you running, beside this additive?
Castrol EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 with Fluid TITANIUM full synthetic
- Thread starter
- #28
Hi AUS 570, for learning purposes; Did you run factory 0W20 and when you heard the noise switched to 0W40 + additive? Also at what approx. mileage (or km...) did you notice this issue?
5w-30 Syth (Costco) for the last 30K miles, less general noise, slightly higher oil pressure (could be in my head, I guess)... 5K intervals.. regular Toyota Filters..
I should have switched sooner. its cheap enough to just do it if you think about it, and I usually do it before a trip if I am over 2K in the 5K cycle or will be going over a few thousand miles on a trip.
I carry one spare filter as well, so I can parking lot change it if needed. 20 minutes well spent in my book.
In general I find that changing regularly is the key with any engine.. not the oil brand.. But that is from old school V8's running on Dino oil.. For the 200 only fully synthetic.
My 2 cents - YMMV...
I should have switched sooner. its cheap enough to just do it if you think about it, and I usually do it before a trip if I am over 2K in the 5K cycle or will be going over a few thousand miles on a trip.
I carry one spare filter as well, so I can parking lot change it if needed. 20 minutes well spent in my book.
In general I find that changing regularly is the key with any engine.. not the oil brand.. But that is from old school V8's running on Dino oil.. For the 200 only fully synthetic.
My 2 cents - YMMV...
The vehicle has been serviced by Lexus from day 1, including after the Harrop 2650 install. I assume they used whatever the recommended factory spec oil up to the blower install, but we decided to go with the Castrol EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 with Fluid TITANIUM (supplied by the dealer) after the install. The random chain noise started about 6 mths after the Harrop install at around 78,000 klms. It was then I started using the Engine Shield additive and haven't had any noise issues since.
Late to the party here, but I've been using Liqui-Moly Molygen 5W-30 in mine. Definitely quieter, and slightly higher pressure on the gauge. I quite like the Molygen becuase not only is it a true Group IV 100% PAO-based full sythnetic (almost all US made "100% synthetics" including Mobile 1 are misleading and are actually made from a non-sythnetic Group III base), but it's designed to fluoresce (green) when illuminated, so it makes it really easy to trace pesky oil leaks!