3FE refresh - doing a reboot on my '92 (1 Viewer)

[LC8pilot]

Just did the 2.5" TJM lift on mine, but haven't installed their steering damper yet. I don't have a pickle fork needed to get the OEM unit off. Also, how does the new one bolt up without the ball joints? A write up would be great.

Sweet! Any pics of the lift after install? Was seriously considering the 2.5". Getting the steering unit on was a lot easier than getting the old one off! I was finally able to pop it off after putting the heat to it and then levering it back n forth with a pickle fork. I slid a 14" section of pipe over the fork handle to get more leverage on it. The TJM unit was a quick install. Only issue I had was that the two sleeved bolts that came with the damper were too big to fit into the holes of the triangular bracket. I rolled them over the grinding wheel a few times on the bench grinder to remove some material. Worked well. I also had to dig a couple of extra washers out of my parts bin - otherwise, the nyloc nut and lock washer would have been snugged up against the rubber bushing.


If you haven't seen it, this youtube video is worth the view. It's a 80 Series specific Jonsey's Off-Road vid.




Here are the two bolts after I ground the ends down a little to fit in the bracket and tie rod end. I greased the other end before installing the damper.

Jumping ahead a little, but here is the TJM unit after install.

Jason

 

[moclakens]

I have been watching this thread for a while, and I have to say its great! I am going to be using your pictures for reference when I go to put my cruiser back together

 

[LC8pilot]

I have been watching this thread for a while, and I have to say its great! I am going to be using your pictures for reference when I go to put my cruiser back together

Thanks! I've got a ton pf pics - let me know if you need to see anything specific

Jason

 

[LC8pilot]

So continuing with the front - Just to be safe, I went ahead and rented a spring/strut compressor from O'Reilly Auto Parts for the weekend. I wanted to make sure I had a plan B for getting the springs out/in just in case I couldn't wrestle them by hand. Turns out the tool made it VERY easy to remove and then install the new springs. So much so, that I ended up keeping the tool and forfeiting the $54 deposit - well worth it to me to have it handy in case there's a next time.

Having never used a spring compressor before, I had to wing it. Pretty self explanatory, though. Just keep the assembly pointed away from your body! I also oiled the rods & threads generously with clean motor oil a few times during the process. Between the clamping & torquing, a lot of binding stress is put on those rods, so I wanted to be sure they stayed cool & lubed.


This is one of the rear springs, just wanted to get in a good shot of the spring compressor.

Clamped on the old spring. Once it's tightened up pretty good, just wiggle it over the spring 'perch' / rest on the bottom. I shot some oil on the perch to help the spring slide over it better. I also removed the two bolts on the top spring 'mount' & removed the rubber spring bump stop assembly (I think that's what it is). It's easier to remove the spring that way since you don't have to pull the spring as far down to clear the bottom of the stop. The assembly just came out with the spring. I was amazed at how much crud and dirt collected in the recess of the stop assembly. Good opportunity for some hot water & soap.

New & old springs side-by-side. The OME springs are MUCH beefier. For those who are into numbers, the old front springs weigh roughly 9lbs each and the OMEs weigh over 14lbs each. I have the exact weights in my notes at home if anybody wants the specifics.

Took the opportunity to take a wire brush to some of the bits while the shocks/springs were out. One thing I forgot to mention & that is to be sure to disconnect the sway bar mounts from the frame. Also make sure your brake lines don't over-stretch. A complete brake job is on my list soon. I noticed while under there that my soft lines are starting to show some rot & I know my rotors are a little wavy.

Jason

 

[LC8pilot]

Another view of the axle assembly before fitting the new springs & shocks. Sorry for the ginormous pix, Guys - would thumbs be better??

New springs went on without a hitch. After jacking the axle housing up, I bolted the new shocks in. Felt good to get those on. Anti-seized EVERYTHING.

Another view.

Not the best pics, but this gives an idea of what kind of lift I got. Both sides were almost spot even on both before and after measurements.

Before

After

Jason

 

[Copenhagen1]

...I'm also hoping to earn a full . Right now I'm a 1/2 , unless I've been drinking too much and then I'm a five ……..

This quote was from your first post. I am going to have to throw a BULL S**T flag on this!! YOU HAVE GOT SKILLS Jason!

A 1/2 mechanic would have never thought to grind the shoulder down on that bolt. A 1/2 mechanic would not have even dreamed of putting oil on the threads of that spring compressor. There is a whole lot of paid mechanics out there that do not use their brains like this. Great job and writeup .

 

[LC8pilot]

This quote was from your first post. I am going to have to throw a BULL S**T flag on this!! YOU HAVE GOT SKILLS Jason!

A 1/2 mechanic would have never thought to grind the shoulder down on that bolt. A 1/2 mechanic would not have even dreamed of putting oil on the threads of that spring compressor. There is a whole lot of paid mechanics out there that do not use their brains like this. Great job and writeup .

Thanks for the words! To be honest, I'm shooting from the hip on a lot of this stuff - thankfully haven't run into any major issues (so far). The way I see it it's best just to dive in - what's the worst that can happen?!?

 

[LC8pilot]

So onto the rear. Started by getting the spare out of the way for some extra room underneath. Also removed the receiver hitch as I wanted to be able to get better purchase on the frame rails with the jack stands. This was probably the most difficult part of the job up to this point. The hitch looked like it hadn't ever been removed. Weather, moisture and time had definitely taken their toll. The six 12MM bolts were seized-up pretty good. VERY slow going with multiple rounds of PB Blaster and heat. I don't have air tools, so breaking those bolts free with a 1/2" breaker bar while lying on my back ended up turning the day into a 5 Advil evening (sucks getting old).


Spare and wheel in great shape. Took a green Scotch Brite to the wheel to clean it up.

Removing the top mounting plates of the rear shocks was time consuming. Not a lot of room to get your hands/tools up there. The lower mounting bolts came off pretty easily even though they had some pretty serious carnage/rash on them from 20+ years of kicked up rocks/debris. The top shock bolt (to disassemble the shock from the mounting plate) was tough to get off. Hard to get good leverage on it if you're trying to hold onto the shock body with your other hand to prevent it from spinning. Gave me a good excuse to get out Grandpa's old 14" pipe wrench!


Old shocks were DEAD. Cleaned up the plate and installed new OEM shock with new cushions.

Springs were straightforward. Removed the brake line bracket from the pumpkin and removed the whole sway bar assembly. Good opportunity to clean up the sway bar and brackets with some kerosene and a brush. I also popped off the diff breather hose and blew a (careful) shot of compressed air through the line to make sure it was clean. I 'almost' forgot to disconnect the brake line bracket that runs up to the rear frame x-member. That would have been bad as things definitely get stretched pretty good.

Everything fitted. I used lithium grease on the shock and sway bar bushings and plenty of anti-seize on all bolts.

Jason

 

[LC8pilot]

Really happy with the way she turned out. Much more controlled and stable in the turns. Also handles better in strong cross-winds. I had almost forgotten what driving with a steering stabilizer felt like! Ride is a little firm/bouncy but nothing offensive. I want to load up the and the kids with gear for some extra weight - I'm guessing it'll be about 1 bazillion percent better than before. I did notice that going over speed bumps, the rig feels much more planted and solid. A huge WIN for this mod!


Before shots.

 

[LC8pilot]

A few 'after' shots.

Got just the amount of lift I was looking for. Time for some 33"s !!

Amazing what a good polish and wax and 6 hours of elbow grease can do.

And one more shiny paint glamour shot! Front bumper is on the short list.

Jason

 

[NorCalLC]

Wow, just read this whole thread and really enjoyed all the great photos and write up. I never document anything I tackle, wish I would have. Your rig is a great color also, looks great all cleaned up.

Keep up the great work

 

[LC8pilot]

Thanks! Unfortunately not a lot of time lately to work on her, let alone document. Next up is a refresh on the headlights with a new harness from Slee and some new bulbs. Oh, and I've got half of the dash bits lying on the floor after getting to the ac evap unit... lot of fun that was. NEVER ends. Hope you have some good seat covers with those cattle dogs.